Nature of the beast AWHBS250N Bandsaw?

[Student]

w1985

Thanks for your comment. I have watched the Alex Snodgrass video a couple of times and, as mentioned before, have Steve M's invaluable DVDs to guide me. I realise that I have to check out all the various guides, wheel tracking etc but, as I said above, I still can't see why, having left the bandsaw for a couple of weeks, it wouldn't cut half the depth that it had before. As recommended in the manual and elsewhere, I don't slacken off the blade tension unless I am not going to be using the bandsaw for a couple of months. If the guides were too tight, presumably the problem would have shown up earlier and the bandsaw would not have run without a problem for some 3 months up until Christmas.

Martin

 

[tool-me-up]

Depends on the timber, type of cut etc etc the force you apply to the blade is not the same every single time so it requires a stiffer or looser blade ( more or less tension)
Woods that cut faster apply less tension on the blade, slow cutting woods apply a lot more pressure to the blade - you may just need to be gentler rather than assuming because some soft pine flew through the saw that a big chunk of rock hard old oak is going to fly through it too....

 

[andersonec]

Try checking the drive belt to see if it is tensioned correctly, if it is not tight it will slip and your blade will come to a stop.

Andy

 

[cedarwood]

I also modified the fence position onto the opposite side of the table so that I didn't have to keep removing it to change blades.

That is an absurdly simple idea. Wish I had thought of it.
That looks like the Axi 400. Is it ?

It's the AWBS450N, why they make the tables with slots going out to the fence I really don't know, having to remove the fence each time you wanted to change the blade makes it a chore. Not only because of having to reset the fence square but sooner or later the bolt threads will wear then wont do up tight so you end up stripping the thread. Some BS are fitted with fences that do not require removal, what I didn't want to do was cut the ally fence track so I clamped the track to the other side of the table made sure it worked ok then marked, drilled and tapped the holes M10, it then only needed the roller track on the opposite side to be cut and drilled to match the bolt holes on the fence side.

 

[cedarwood]

Hi giantbeat,

Yes, I was probably hoping for too much to just replace the blade, adjust the wheel tracking and tension, check the guide bearings (at least the side bearings) and hope to get away with it. It's back to square one for a full refettling.

The funny thing is that, before Christmas, the saw was cutting 75mm hardwood and, without any changes in set up, after Christmas it wouldn't cut 38mm softwood.

Martin

A thought has just occurred to me after reading this above, could it be possible that you are suffering a lack of electrical power to the motor, had a steam cleaner on the farm that just would not work on any extension lead longer than 10m because of voltage drop.

Roger

 

[williams1185]

hi just out of curiosity has the bandsaw got a 550 watt motor by any chance ? i have an older model from axminster and that some times struggles to run up to high speed on start up in the first few seconds. as yours is a new model i would certainly contact axminster about it could be that the motor is faulty they have a pretty good after care service

 

[Grahamshed]

I also modified the fence position onto the opposite side of the table so that I didn't have to keep removing it to change blades.

That is an absurdly simple idea. Wish I had thought of it.
That looks like the Axi 400. Is it ?

It's the AWBS450N, why they make the tables with slots going out to the fence I really don't know, having to remove the fence each time you wanted to change the blade makes it a chore. Not only because of having to reset the fence square but sooner or later the bolt threads will wear then wont do up tight so you end up stripping the thread. Some BS are fitted with fences that do not require removal, what I didn't want to do was cut the ally fence track so I clamped the track to the other side of the table made sure it worked ok then marked, drilled and tapped the holes M10, it then only needed the roller track on the opposite side to be cut and drilled to match the bolt holes on the fence side.

Ahh, ok. Mine is the 400 but I believe the basic layout is the same.
I was rather hoping the bolt sizes and positions were going to allow a simple swap. I will have a look at mine tomorrow.

 

[bernienufc]

Fitted the new tuffsaw blade tonight and after the usual time to setup the guides it cuts lovely.
I had some real good help from the axminster shop at surbiton, they felt that the motor should never have stalled out at that level, so i will monitor it for a while now. thanks to all

 

[andersonec]

Here is one of the better video's on how to set up your bandsaw, American I know (they can't help it) but this is a manufacturer and it makes a lot of sense.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Andy

 

[bernienufc]

Must admit i came across this one and have yet to watch it in its entirety.
So, when it comes to my hobby saw setup i have to say that i have not a lot of confidence in it, as the sliding guide that goes up and down is not a precision fit, when lowered you can creat your own gap between the bearing and the blade. it would be interesting to see if any other 250n users also have this issue, i can video if needed.

 

[bernienufc]

Speaking with Axminster about this issue and even told them about the improvement with the new blade they still did not want to take any chances so they sent me a new motor. Just fitted it and all i can say WOW, i just slice through some 1 1/2" like it was butter, so it would seem i had a combination of things but all hunky dory now
well done axminster

 

[Grahamshed]

You have to admire that company. They do seem to go out of their way to keep customers happy.

 

[carlb40]

Excellent news. Another thumbs up for axi.

 

[Student]

Following on from various advice received, I finally managed to find time to sort out my bandsaw. As others have said, there is some conflicting advice out there but

I got the blade centred on the wheels
I sorted out the tension on the blade
I adjusted all the guides
I refitted the table

and

IT WORKS

Well, sort of. To me, running it at the higher speed seems a bit OTT. Thinner stock is no problem but, despite a slow feed rate, I could smell burning when cutting thicker stock, approx. 75 mm beech, which it has done before without burning when on the slower speed. I may well go back to running on the slower speed and see if this gets me back to where I was before.

One thing that was noticeable when I opened up the machine and removed the table was the amount of crud around the lower blade guides. It may have been this that was causing some of my original problems.

Anyway, thanks for all the helpful advice received.

 

[carlb40]

See if there is a way to install a small brush in the lower section before the wheel. That way it can help to keep the blade clean.