Milling Metals With a Router

[graduate_owner]

Rwoody:
do you know of any metalworkers in your area? (Probably not else you would already have tried them) Perhaps a look on a metalwork forum might bring up a new acquaintance? Doing the bulk of the work on a milling machine and finishing off by hand filing sounds the best and safest way to me.

K

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Per my original post, and in response to JasonB - the cutting speeds are considerably higher for carbide tooling, see attached:

http://www.niagaracutter.com/solidcarbi ... dfeed.html

Well within the speed range of most variable speed routers

Regards Mick

 

[Racers]

I milled the slot and round overs with a router, milling cutter for the slot and normal 1/4" shank round over bit for the edges.





Pete

 

[DTR]

For example, using an M8 bolt gives you 1mm per revolution (on a standard-pitch metric thread), or M10 does 1.5mm. I used my T11's through-table height adjuster to do this (M10 pitch).

Being pedantic here, M8 has a pitch of 1.25mm. M6 has a pitch of 1mm :wink:

 

[Gerry]

For example, using an M8 bolt gives you 1mm per revolution (on a standard-pitch metric thread), or M10 does 1.5mm. I used my T11's through-table height adjuster to do this (M10 pitch).

Being pedantic here, M8 has a pitch of 1.25mm. M6 has a pitch of 1mm :wink:

Also being pedantic, Common M8 pitches are 1.25mm or 1.5mm (fine or course)

Gerry

 

[Myfordman]

For example, using an M8 bolt gives you 1mm per revolution (on a standard-pitch metric thread), or M10 does 1.5mm. I used my T11's through-table height adjuster to do this (M10 pitch).

Being pedantic here, M8 has a pitch of 1.25mm. M6 has a pitch of 1mm :wink:

Also being pedantic, Common M8 pitches are 1.25mm or 1.5mm (fine or course)

Gerry

In extra-pedant mode on both accuracy and spelling! (grin)
I think M8 x 1.25 is the iso metric coarse standard???

MM

 

[Eric The Viking]

Oooh Arr.

'twas a simple mistake originally anyway. The point being "some way of micro-adjusting"

I have Zeus tables* too - just didn't have them handy.

E.

* well a Presto Counsellor - same difference.

 

[DTR]

For example, using an M8 bolt gives you 1mm per revolution (on a standard-pitch metric thread), or M10 does 1.5mm. I used my T11's through-table height adjuster to do this (M10 pitch).

Being pedantic here, M8 has a pitch of 1.25mm. M6 has a pitch of 1mm :wink:

Also being pedantic, Common M8 pitches are 1.25mm or 1.5mm (fine or course)

Gerry

Touché :lol:

 

[ss03947]

do you know of any metalworkers in your area? (Probably not else you would already have tried them) Perhaps a look on a metalwork forum might bring up a new acquaintance? Doing the bulk of the work on a milling machine and finishing off by hand filing sounds the best and safest way to me.

Woody, what's quoted in the post above, there's got to be a small workshop near by.

I've seen many an accident with milling machines never mind a router.. :shock: ..vibration is your worst enemy.

SS.

 

[RWoody]

Wow, thanks for all the contributions guys. I've literally just come back to the forum, as I've been away on other work the past week or so, and I see quite a few posts to catch up on. I'll come back to each of you when I've read through completely. Thanks again, much appreciated!

 

[RWoody]

The metalworker's way to fit a strip to an existing groove is to file it to fit. Use a turnip file to remove the bulk of the waste, then 'creep up' on a fit with second-cut and finally smooth files. Check frequently with a straightedge and small engineer's square that you're filing straight, and try the fit frequently once you're close. Hold the brass strip in a vice, and use both hands on the file. This will be quicker than you think - brass files easily, especially with a nice sharp new file. Do a 'practice run' with a short strip if you've not tried this before.

Even if you milled the strip to width, you'd have to do the final fitting with files to avoid a sloppy fit. Even on a 'proper' milling machine, getting a smooth sliding fit straight off the machine is pretty unlikely - it'll be close, but either a bit sloppy (fail - scrap) or a bit tight (ease fit with smooth file). [Production guys will get a reasonable fit from the machine, but they'll need a couple of practice runs to refine settings. Better class work is almost always 'fitted' by hand after machining, especially in the case of 'one-offs'.]

[/quote]

I agree with what you're saying, when one gets near to the ideal size. I have already used a couple of files, with great success; but where this just isn't practical, is when there is a much more to take off. It'd take forever to file, which is why I was looking at another solution, and hence the router milling question.

I'm actually minded to cut, with a fine-toothed hacksaw, to remove the bulk; then to finish off with files as you suggest. In the end this might well be the best solution, though I shall read through the other responses first, just to see if there are any other ideas. Thanks.

 

[RWoody]

I would not even think about it the item must be held so there is no movement, milling cutters break very easy, I would not even use a cheap modern milling machine; there are loads of them that have only been used a few times. I have two very old milling machines that work well but you have to know what you are doing.

Good point, and something that's easily overlooked. This is one of the reasons why I found it necessary to put the question out there: so many aspects to think of, and some possible solutions, but sometimes difficult to implement for the reason you state. It doesn't help me in this case, other than putting me off from using the said power tool, but just goes into the many things one needs to think about. Thanks wizard.

 

[RWoody]

I used my router once on aluminium.
It cut quite well until a chip of aluminium ended up in the motor shorting it out.
It was still under warranty so the repair cost me nothing except an explanation on how metal ended up inside it.
My advice if you do try. Cover the ventilation holes near the collet and allow the machine to cool down a few times during use. Better still find a machine shop to do it for you.

Thanks n0legs. One to think about if going this route!

 

[RWoody]

Aluminium doors and windows have holes for hinges and locks routed, Trend list high speed cutters for this purpose. Brass should be possible with a smaller diameter cutter which would lower the surface speed. What I would question is how you intend to hold the metal while routing it, I'm not sure how this could be done safely.

Good point, Steve. Also I'd 'hold' the router in my WoodRat. I think this would be a more secure way of holding the router itself.

 

[RWoody]

I've 'quoted' but deleted your body text as it'd have taken a huge amount of space; but at least you know who I'm referring to

What an extensive, informative post, Eric! I genuinely appreciate it, having read every word. I also find the 'risks' (the metal 'chips' as opposed to swarf etc.), as well as the 'cautions' (finding a way to very slowly, and accurately advance the cutters) understandable, but at the same time concerning, as although I'd use my WoodRat IF I was to go this route, I'm thinking about how to prepare to amply rectify these issues? I'm really leaning towards an earlier comment I made, where I'd employ both a hacksaw AND files.

Thanks again, Eric.

 

[wizard]

just buy a milling machine, simples.

 

[RWoody]

I routed the edges of this plane

Using a slow speed on my router table and held freehand.

Rod

Looks beautiful, Harbo! I presume you did it for the visual impact as opposed to functional improvement in some way?

 

[RWoody]

Rwoody:
do you know of any metalworkers in your area? (Probably not else you would already have tried them) Perhaps a look on a metalwork forum might bring up a new acquaintance? Doing the bulk of the work on a milling machine and finishing off by hand filing sounds the best and safest way to me.

K

Hi K,

Your assumption is correct: I don't know any metalworkers in my area, no. There must be some, but I haven't checked - though I could run through the members on the forum, to see if any are. I'm sure the guy who sadly passed away, and whose tools and machinery I now have, would have been able to help point me in the right direction. Apart from his knowledge, he was a true craftsmen (my father's best buddy, and my metalwork teacher as senior school many years ago). There is even a group on YouTube, dedicated to his model steam traction engines! Also the Americans actually copied and printed one of his books, in woodwork, without his permission. He later sought, and got recompense.

Thanks for your input.

 

[RWoody]

Hi

Per my original post, and in response to JasonB - the cutting speeds are considerably higher for carbide tooling, see attached:

http://www.niagaracutter.com/solidcarbi ... dfeed.html

Well within the speed range of most variable speed routers

Regards Mick

Thanks Spindle; it'll be good for future reference. I'm bookmarking it!

 

[RWoody]

I milled the slot and round overs with a router, milling cutter for the slot and normal 1/4" shank round over bit for the edges.





Pete

Looks a really professional job indeed, Pete. Attaching images of work you've actually done, really does demonstrate well what can be achieved, with care. Thanks a lot!