Infill Smoothing Plane Project

[Jelly]

Having admired the beauty of what you're creating there, I'm beginning to get why infills are so sought after...

I also have another dense question... Would it not be possible to just use a length of of channel obviating the need to dovetail the sides?

 

[rafezetter]

I can't imagine the amount of hours it has taken you to get this far - a stunning piece of workmanship that far belies the fact it's your first one. If were given such a thing I'd not use it but make a display case for it instead! The dovetail joints look invisible to me, the whole thing fully deserving of un-british chest swelling pride

 

[Richard T]

Good stuff rxh - how's the lever cap coming on? Do you plan to pivot all the way through or put a pin in either side?

 

[rxh]

Jimi, Jelly, Rafezetter & Richard,
Many thanks for your comments.

Jimi,
Yes, I was glad to get the infill in place OK. Taking the photos has made a useful record for me – often in the past I have forgotten the details of what I have done and then had to “reinvent the wheel” later.

Jelly,
Your question about the use of channel is very interesting and I wonder if anyone has tried this method. I think the main difficulty would be a finding suitable size. Steel channel seems to come in two main types: rolled (which has tapered sides) and “parallel flange” (which appears to be folded from flat plate and has rounded outer corners and would thus be a non-starter). The rolled type is available in certain standard sizes but none seems to be suitable, e.g. the 76mm x 38mm size would be wide enough for a 2 3/8” blade but the sides would be rather thick and not be high enough to carry the holes for mounting the lever cap. I also wonder if stresses trapped during the manufacturing process might cause distortion to occur after the sides are cut to shape.

Rafezetter,
I haven’t kept count of the hours but yes, they would add up to quite a few. However, working in my shed, listening to the radio and looking out on my garden is a pleasure for me. As you will see from the earlier posts in this thread, I have had a lot of helpful advice and encouragement in my efforts. The dovetails (and a few defects) can be seen if you look closely at the real thing rather than a photo.

Richard,
The lever cap is at an early stage, as you can see from the photo below – there is some serious filing still to do. I plan to have a stepped pin on either side with a spring in between so as to allow the lever cap to be removable. The thread is 3/8" BSW - did you get any further with your ACME thread problem?

 

[Richard T]

rxh wrote:
Jelly,
Your question about the use of channel is very interesting and I wonder if anyone has tried this method

Late Norris 8)

did you get any further with your ACME thread problem?


Errrr ... yerss and no .... I have ordered a bespoke matching tap and die for 1/2" 14 tpi square thread from a firm that is very local to me. Turns out the only other firm capable of such things in Europe is in Germany. Don't ask how much ...

I think I said in the lever cap thread that the best tool I have found for shifting large amounts of brass is a curved Dreadnought. A flat one will hardly touch it. I speak from very recent experience as I have spent the whole day today making a lever cap.
The sprung pins are very snazzy. I think I will slot and screw mine.

 

[rafezetter]

rxh wrote:I think I said in the lever cap thread that the best tool I have found for shifting large amounts of brass is a curved Dreadnought. A flat one will hardly touch it. I speak from very recent experience as I have spent the whole day today making a lever cap.
The sprung pins are very snazzy. I think I will slot and screw mine.

I curious as I dabble very lightly with metal work, just a few n ends, nothing brass or bronze though - you mentioned that the brass you bought was soft "only the most vicious (and 'bristly' if you will) tools would make any significant cut".

How so? I don't understand how softer = more difficult to shape.

Your plane Richard also looks great (but I prefer the bright orange of RXH;s wood !)

 

[Richard T]

rafezetter - s'right .... Brass maybe softer than Iron or steel but won't be cut by tools designed for the former.

A flat Dreadnought file will be great for a flat surface on a chunk of iron but will make no impact whatsoever on a similar cut of Brass. I don't know why ... it just doesn't. Try it.

I am tempted to try a rasp. (bristly)

Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zink. Bronze is an alloy of Copper and Tin - never tried it. Much harder.

 

[rxh]

Richard,
Yes, some tools that work OK on steel are no good on brass. Once a file has been used on steel it seems less effective on brass - skating over the surface rather than biting in. The same applies to hacksaw blades.

I completed the lever cap today - see photos below. I worked through eight grades of abrasive paper then used a buffing wheel.

 

[Richard T]

Hey, Lovely. Those round bits around the round bit around the bolt hole are 'fun' to get right aren't they?

 

[Scouse]

... Those round bits around the round bit around the bolt hole...

The problem with threads like this is the amount of technical jargon used which us mere mortals just don't understand! :lol:

Lovely work though...

 

[rxh]

Richard,
Thanks for your comments. Yes, it took me a while to get the shape to my satisfaction. A good light, soothing music and no disturbances helped.

Scouse, thanks for your comments too. :lol:

I put it all together temporarily to see how it looks. The rear infill is now riveted into place but I removed the front infill to get access for completing the shaping of the mouth.

The remaining tasks are:
- Continue opening up the front of the mouth until the blade and a shaving will go through.
- Fit blade centralising pads inside the throat.
- Find or make a better spring to go between the pivot pins in the lever cap.
- Sharpen the blade.
- Try making shavings!
- Adjust mouth and back iron as necessary until good shavings are obtained.
- General clean and polish.

I’m not entirely pleased with the front infill and I may make a different one. However, this one will do for test purposes.

 

[MickCheese]

Wow, that is absolutely beautiful. You have considerable skill.

I love it. Even if it never worked it is a piece of art.

Congratulation

Mick

 

[Richard T]

=D> Well done rxh

Have you lapped it yet? Depending on the escape angle, lapping will open the mouth a little. Worth bearing in mind.
Ron Brese reckons on a gap of 4 thou' but I shouldn't worry about having a mouth so tight rather concentrate on getting it square.

I hope you have had a go with springless bits of bar in for pivots just to test the squareness - I know I would have.

Fantastic achievement matey .... any plans for the next one?

My tap and die is due on the 20th of this month apparently ......

 

[Racers]

Hi rxh

Its a looker for sure, now get it lapped and make some shavings!

I know what you mean about the front infill its not right, may be a bit of slope on the bun would look go, sort of like its doing 100 MPH even at standstill.

Pete

 

[rxh]

Mick, Richard and Pete,
Thanks for your kind comments

I have done the lapping and mouth filing - the filing took quite a while as I was being careful not to go too far. I sharpened the blade and took the first shavings of beech (measuring about 0.5mm or 2 thou thick). I fiddled around with the lever cap attachment quite a bit – I couldn't find a spring with enough strength to make the pins engage with the holes in the sides properly so I came up with an alternative arrangement that screws apart and this works well. I made two “blade centralisers” out brass and these fit into threaded holes in the sides with their heads inside the throat. Also temporarily fitted is the Mk.II front infill – it is more comfortable to hold and allows more space for the hand between it and the lever cap knob.

So I’m nearly there now. I’ll probably leave it a while before making the next plane but I’m starting to think of a brass sided mitre plane……

PS Richard, I’d be very interested to hear how you get on with the square threads.

 

[rxh]

Correction: the shavings were about 0.05mm thick.

 

[Richard T]

Good stuff rxh

The due date for the tap and die is the 22nd of July. I'll keep you posted.

 

[rxh]

Here it is: the finished article.

Thanks to all readers for their interest, comments and advice.

 

[G S Haydon]

I will confess to not keeping up to date with this one but what a wonderful end result. Top marks!

 

[marcros]

i love that padauk. I am going to have to find a project to use some of that- if i can source some boards.