How To Set Up Jointer Fence Square

[ratkinsonuk]

I fixed my Jointer Fence to my Rexon this weekend and jointed the side of a couple of boards before gluing up.

I used a square to set the fence to the table, and although the fence seems to have a curve in it, it seemed OK.

When I took the boards out of the clamps, I noticed they're slightly out of line, so the edges couldn't have been square (half a degree, perhaps).

Is there an silly person proof way of setting up the fence to be square?

Rob.

 

[paulm]

Hi Rob,

For jointing the edges of boards for a glue up like the one you have just done, try running each alternate board with the opposite face against the fence.

This means that any minor inaccuracy in the fence setting will be compensated for when the two edges are glued together, rather than the problem compounding on each successive board if you do them all the same way round.

Hope that makes sense :?

 

[ratkinsonuk]

Ahhhhh...fairly obvious when you think about it :roll:

Would still like some suggestions for squaring up the fence, when I'm not gluing up boards, i.e. squaring edges for a carcase.

Cheers, Rob.

 

[Philly]

Rob
Using a square that truly IS square helps. Worth testing yours to make sure it is (they do seem to go out of square over time, especially if you drop them DAMHIKT :lol: )
Also if your fence is twisted or warped you are in trouble-maybe worth making up a false face for the fence will help?
HTH
Philly

 

[ratkinsonuk]

It's quite odd that the fence seems to have been designed with the curve in it, which is fine for pieces wider than 3 or 4 inches, but can't possibly work properly with smaller work.

I'll have to double check it when I get back tonight, unless anyone else has a Rexon?

After sending my Rosewood square back 3 times (to a certain online supply company), I finally got a 'square' one! The Customer Services operator rang me to ask why I was returning it.......a few select words later.....

However, I'm not convinced it's absolutely accurate (using parrallel line method), so will invest in a decent engineers square, ASAP.

Rob.

 

[Waka]

Rob

Can I suggest that you buy yourself a good engineers square.

 

[johnelliott]

If the fence has a curve in it, then it is not OK

In any case, get an engineer's square, a 6" one should be sufficient, and check the fence setting against the outfeed table, and when that looks right, run a piece of wood through and check that, then adjust the fence if necessary until the work comes through square.

I semi tighten the fence bolts, then tap with a small hammer to adjust the fence, then, when it's square, I tighten the bolts fully and check again

John

 

[ratkinsonuk]

Checked the fence, and it does have a slight curve in it.

If I place a straight edge across it, it touches at the edges, but in the middle I can sqeeze a piece of paper folded in two - however many microns that is.

I guess it works out at a 10th of a degree, and as there's probably more movement in the wood itself, I'll won't concern myself with it.

The fence on the Rexon is quite good and seems fairly sturdy. It has a micro-adjuster screw to set the angle, so no tapping with a hammer required (unless I get narked, and that would be a sledge hammer ).

Rob.

 

[Sonic]

It's quite amazing just how many squares aren't, if you know what I mean ! It wasn't until I bought a 6" engineer's square that I realised why I couldn't get things setup right ! It sounds as if the fence on your jointer is better than on my Perform P/T, it is a real pain to set - and it tends to lose its setup when I take it off (as you have to) when thicknessing

Colin S

 

[woodbloke]

Agreed - engineers squares are the ones to go for.