Home library

[Inspector]

I would make the shelves that are long with the solid edging across front and back of the shelfs rather than Domino the backs. It would allow for adjustments and any books you can place on the shelf have to clear the lip across the front will clear the same across the back.

Pete

 

[HOJ]

I'm converted to the adjustable shelves.

Have you thought about Tonk strips for the shelf supports, the flushed in ones.

 

[Scruples]

After I cut my teeth making built-ins for 3 bedrooms and a dressing room last year, I'm now ready for the big one, the home library. I am possibly doing this so that I have a great excuse to buy a Festool domino but the wife doesn't need to know that

The bookcases will wrap around three walls and incorporate a built in desk and log storage. Will mostly use 18mm hardwood plywood (it's what I used for built-ins and local timber merchant gets some nice looking stuff + books will be covering most of it). Will again use redwood for a faceframe, 38mm vertical width & 22mm thickness (i.e. 1mm overlap when placed where 2x 18mm panels meet), which will lip below each shelf to give a thicker appearance but also for strength. For the large exposed sides I will just scribe 18 MR MDF as these sides and the face frame will be painted, the plywood will not be.

Still have a few bits I need to get my head around:

1) I'm thinking of angling the middle shelf as a kind of display shelf for nice looking books but also to accomodate larger ones. Don't know whether to just have the angled shelf or add a flat shelf beneath it then add angled offcuts and sit the actual angled shelf on those. Picture on far right below
2) There are a lot of shelves. Not accurately represented in doodle below but basically using 300mm spacing for each shelf height. I've never made a dado or used a domino before. Dado seems like the stronger joint but my research suggest the domino is more than enough in this instance and far quicker.
3) Assuming I go down the domino route, how many & where are still not finalised. Obviously minimum 2 on shelf ends, would 3 make assembly significantly more difficult in terms of alignment? Given no "ends"of each bookcase will be visible, would it make more sense to just do 2 initial dominos for alignment then once assembled, use the domino cutter from the outside going through the side panels and into the middle of each shelf, then glue/add domino? Or would 2 be fine (with glue) on a 300mm deep shelf?
4) As previously mentioned, shelves will have a 38mm faceframe. Sagulator provides an estimated 0.49mm sag for the widest shelf (the 950mm) i.e. within the realms of "acceptable". Would it be worth doing like mentioned previously and once assembled, add dominos straight through from the back (12mm ply) into the shelf for added support or given number of shelves, the payoff not worth it? The other shelves a mix between 600 & 750mm and sagulator throws up 0.08-0.19mm of sag ie assuming definitely not worth it for those. Assume worst case could glue in a supporting batten underneath the back of affected shelves at a later date.
5) See a mixture of shelves inline with carcass and others slightly recessed, purely aesthetic or merit to either method?
6) Best way to secure the bookcases. For the wardrobes, I anchored the plinth to the wall (with rawl plugs) then screwed the wardrobe to the plinth and used steel L brackets to secure it to the wall at the top to prevent toppling. Same again here or is there a more appropriate method? I've highlighted in red what I envisage to be the best carcass subassemblies, with the 3 overhead units actually sitting over floor supported carcasses. That said, I plan to add a rolling ladder and rail so would like something slightly more significant in terms of support for those overhead/floating units.




View attachment 178177

I used to have a lot of books, both fiction and non-fiction. Nowadays, I get books from the charity shops or Amazon and pass them on to charities again. Some useful non-fiction manuals are worth keeping for reference but don't warrant more than a few feet of shelf space.

 

[Jones]

I can recommend tonk strip as well,ironmongery direct have a selection. I would also use 18mm or even 24 mm plywood for the shelves instead of 12mm then you can reduce the lipping size and give it a lighter look.

 

[SimonB]

Do you mind if I ask how did you source your ladder/hardware etc?

Ours is a Neville Johnson library, some examples of the ladder here. It has two hooks to hang it vertically when not in use, then lift and sit in notches for the angled in use position. Likewise 3m ceilings with floor to ceiling shelving, so a practical feature as much as an aesthetic one. I can imagine that you're willing/capable of making the ladder yourself. I don't recall how the rail was fitted, but obviously ensure sufficient support for it, although I imagine most of the force is horizontal.

I'm curious about your angled shelf, how do you plan to make use of it?

 

[Sachakins]

I've used these type, look less like flat pack and more traditional for shelving.

SISI UK® Banjo Shelf Supports Studs & Inserts Sockets for 6mm Hole, 3 Colours, Brass, Nickle & Antique Bronze - Pack of 8 (Brass Finish) https://amzn.eu/d/hQ62ZoL

 

[HamsterJam]

Never heard the term Tonk strip before, always called them bookcase strips - you learn something new every day.
We have these although I don’t like them as they sit proud.

IMHO they are marginally better than holes on 32mm centres but if you can router a housing, flush will look better.
I’d try to avoid long shelf spans, but a perpendicular strip of ply can be added under the shelf at the back to give some additional support if required.

 

[recipio]

I built a small reading room with a telly many years ago and I'd add the following. Only ' coffee table ' books are worth storing unless you are into collecting fine books. It's pointless storing paperbacks as they are rarely read twice. Slanted shelves look like they are overcrowded from day one. Just build a 600 mm bottom shelf which will take the largest of books. I like the Tonk strips but buy good quality brass ones and use the dedicated router bit to recess them flush with the vertical shelf. Don't forget to allow for power sockets and I always think those sliding ladders look very professional - if you have the room of course.

 

[Spectric]

This might be an interesting read

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/shelf-supports.86342/

But you could use some of this

https://www.cookebrothers.co.uk/shelf-support-systems/flat-bookcase.html

and recess it flush using one of these

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin...e_Bookcase_Tonk_Strip_162.html#aT4430_2d1_2f2

and agree MDF shelves will saaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag

 

[Mjward]

Have a look at my efforts (post13) in woodworker432's thread on shelving. They show that varying or adjustable shelves can make interesting features in themselves rather than just a method of storing books. You may want to store your library in subject or author categories which may well involve multiple sizes of book, in which case a degree of flexibility will be advantageous.
I would go for shorter shelf spans; not only structurally better but provides greater flexibility of use.
Brian

I had come across your fantastic work in my research on dominos
Initially I was looking at maximising the span (where structually feasible) in order to reduce the complexity but certainly feels that by introducing shelves on pins that reducing some of the larger spans would be prudent.

 

[Mjward]

I built a small reading room with a telly many years ago and I'd add the following. Only ' coffee table ' books are worth storing unless you are into collecting fine books. It's pointless storing paperbacks as they are rarely read twice. Slanted shelves look like they are overcrowded from day one. Just build a 600 mm bottom shelf which will take the largest of books. I like the Tonk strips but buy good quality brass ones and use the dedicated router bit to recess them flush with the vertical shelf. Don't forget to allow for power sockets and I always think those sliding ladders look very professional - if you have the room of course.

I think each to their own with regards to certain aesthetic features as I can't stand the tonk strips personally, possibly because I've seen them far too often (or similar) in flat pack assembly and venereed chipboard type assemblies I totally get their practicality but not for me I'm afraid. Yes, re power sockets, have them planned at mid level for where music equipment will be located and also at lower levels to power a computer by the desk etc. I'm very keen on the ladder but it seems easy enough to retrofit so will park that project for a later date. I hear you re storing/collecting books but in my situation I've accumulated (almost a library of) books over the last 2 decades that are unread and will possibly take another 2 decades to get through but hopefully not as I'm hoping a surge in free time once this master renovation is over!

 

[Mjward]

This might be an interesting read

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/shelf-supports.86342/

But you could use some of this

https://www.cookebrothers.co.uk/shelf-support-systems/flat-bookcase.html

and recess it flush using one of these

https://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=tonk&PN=Online_Catalogue_Bookcase_Tonk_Strip_162.html#aT4430_2d1_2f2

and agree MDF shelves will saaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag

Thanks Roy, I'm gonna do some research on the shelf supports, thinking to make narrower span to avoid rear strips and to affix using pins are similar but need to work out which style is best given the weight component.

 

[Mjward]

Right... on to version 3, after taking in all your wonderful advice I've made a few adjustments:

1) introduction of "flexible" shelves. Some will be fixed for structural integrity but majority will be on pins
2) Angled middle shelf has been removed and have introduced a larger shelf (to accomodate music equipment but also should I pick up any extra large books on the way)
3) Log store has been removed. As per your help, if I make it large enough to be practical then I am introducing humidity/bug/mess issues so might as well avoid all together
4) Shelf depth increased from 300mm to 350mm (carcass to be 400mm) with most shelves recessed with the exception of the fixed larger middle shelf (seems most bookshelf speakers and music players would benefit from 400mm depth). This depth increase has reduced all of the shelf spans to well within comfortable levels I feel
5) Main computer area of desk to be slightly deeper than rest of desk. Main desk carcass depth restricted to 500mm due to proximity of sockets nearby but will have a section of the desk out to 600mm which gives enough distance away from the bookcase for ease of mouse/keyboard usage.
6) Have run all the shelf spans through sagulator and I feel at these reduced spans, 18mm will not noticeably sag. As such, I am thinking of just doing edge banding (for the first time but looks straight forward unless you advise otherwise) as opposed to strips of redwood faceframe for the shelves. 25mm would be even better but my preference would be to minimise the different sheet materials I use if at all possible.

My outstanding issues are:

1) Access height at the top. If I include the very top row of 300mm high shelves, that gives me 125mm above the carcass to affix it to the wall. Seems tight but maybe at only 400m depth it's fine. Alternatively I do away with the entire top row from a shelf perspective and just make a very large panel (300mm+125mm). Would make things easy from a wiring/lighting access perspective but feels a waste
2) I have limited experience hanging/mounting things over a span. As above, there are two sections that aren't supported to the floor. I don't know what the norm is for this. I know in some kitchen fitting they use a metal rail/clip version of a french cleat but I'll admit I really have no experience in this field to properly support the weight that will be on those sections.
3) How to attach the bookcase over the desk. I've seen a few videos where they screw in from underneath but seems to induce a fair amount of risk lining up into the 18mm verticals from underneath the desk section.

Adding a few pics so you get a rough idea of the design I'm looking to achieve