Hand Mitre Saw

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machineage

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Hi there

I wondered if anyone could recommend a hand mitre saw? I have a lovely Elektra Beckum sliding compound mitre saw - but there are occasions when just using a hand mitre saw would be more convenient..

I've read some horror stories bout the cheaper models - like the Silverline etc

Can anyone recommend something of some quality and a reasonable price? I see the Faithfull has some good reviews:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-MITRE ... B000X2ATXI

Are there any other I should consider?

Thanks!
 
Your one on Amazon will do compound mitres - I suggest that unless you know that you will really need to cut them, that's a feature too far and just brings the risk of another source of errors.
The one Wizard linked to is the basic model that you will find in any DIY shop under lots of different brand names.
I have one like that - branded Nu-tool - and for the limited work I have every done with it, it's been fine. I've mostly used it for quite narrow sections though - glazing beads, stop beads, ovolo beads planted on to doors - that sort of thing.
If you want to be reliably accurate on a workpiece several inches wide, one of these might not be good enough, even if you spent some time fiddling with it.
Your alternatives would be a Nobex - not cheap unless you are very lucky - a vintage US Stanley or Millers Falls, or a trad home made mitre box to your own standard of accuracy.
 
Years ago, when I (briefly) had more money than sense, I bought a Nobex Champion mitre saw. It's OK (ish) in a rather plasticy, flexible kind of way, and used with care gives reasonable results, but it's not a tool that inspires confidence. It's also a big chunk with lots of sticky-out bits to find storage space for, though not heavy.

I seem to recall that Ulmia used to make a more solid version; it may be worth tracking one down if you have a lot of mitre work to do. However, with the benefit of hindsight, I'd take AndyT's advice and go with the home-made mitre block or box if it's for occasional work. Suit it to a crosscut-filed backsaw for small work, or a panel saw for larger pieces.
 
Looking around a bit, I see another option which might be what you need - and would certainly be a lot easier to store and transport. There are several variations on the theme but they all hold a slim saw against an accurate guide to control the angle of cut. David Barron uses a similar system to make very accurate dovetails. I've no experience of using them.

This sort of thing:

z301399a.jpg


which comes from here: http://www.fine-tools.com/miter-sawguide.html

or here http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/category/Gehrungssaegen-und-Schneidladen-3546_3557.htm
 
Ulmia still makes their mitre saws which are very good, solid and precise, but expensive. If you can find an old one, then it's a good investment. But I don't know if they are available in England. This is one of the few occasions where the Continent trumps the Isles in regards of old tools.
 
There's only one worth buying and that's a Nobex. They've always been the best and they last for years
 
I recently had some 7" skirtings to do and looked at them briefly in B&Q. I took one out of the box to see what I was getting for my £25.....Absolute junk. The guides (the important bit) were flimsy plastic. I put it back in the box and made myself a 'lie down flat' type which worked perfectly for the whole job.
 
I bought a Norbex proman back in the early 90's and found it to be pretty good ,still use it now and again for cutting metal tile edge when bathroom fitting.

ScreenShot2013-11-09at220745_zps74dab792.png


The plastic handle didnt last very long i made one out of some hardwood reclaimed from an old door.

Cheers Bern
 
I agree about Nobex, have a Proman myself which is a delight to use and super-accurate, and aimed at the picture framer. But Nobex also used to make a larger and more robust one, aimed at joiners, called the 202 which sometimes appears on eBay.It has one big advantage, which is that the back of the vertical face is parallel to the front, meaning that it is possible to clamp the material to the face using a conventional cramp- not possible with the Proman.
 
I am hoping to buy myself a Nobex Champion mitre saw, with the Japanese blade. After i sell a few items from my shed.
 
Another vote for the Nobex from me. I sometimes dabble in picture framing and find the Nobex to be accurate enough. I glued strips of 80 grit sandpaper to the surfaces to help grip and stop small mouldings from sliding around. If you get one, then try to get in the habit of using the full length of the blade when cutting. It helps keep things accurate.
C.
 
denboy":3efs3fjw said:
I agree about Nobex, have a Proman myself which is a delight to use and super-accurate, and aimed at the picture framer. But Nobex also used to make a larger and more robust one, aimed at joiners, called the 202 which sometimes appears on eBay.It has one big advantage, which is that the back of the vertical face is parallel to the front, meaning that it is possible to clamp the material to the face using a conventional cramp- not possible with the Proman.

I have a 202, but there's a problem. It doesn't have "twin" support rods, which means there's some racking force from the guides to the blade (or is it from the blade to the guides?).

In a worn example, this can grip the blade quite strongly (DAMHIKT). The only cure I've found is to keep the guides very clean (via disassembly) which is tedious.

My eventual cure was a bargain price Champion, an excellent piece of kit. The Champion is deceptive; it doesn't LOOK much different to cheaper saw, and it doesn't LOOK heavy, rigid and accurate.

But it makes perfect cuts, every time.

BugBear
 

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