Decided which new lathe. Now what ?

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bellringer":12xbidxt said:
woodfarmer":12xbidxt said:
The chuck will fit. I have the same lathe I bought first week of November. I also bought an evolution 114 chuck and jaws which I have yet to take out of the box. For preference I use faceplates. and got a set (3 sizes of these) all of which have been used. Incidentally if you make a tiny mortice for the faceplates they hold much better and can easily be re fitted fairly true to the lathe without the need of much in the way of screws. To make the mortice I remove about 1/8" (3-4mm) with the bowl gauge to about 1/4" of the correct diametre. If you eyeball through the faceplate is easy to make a mark then spin the workpiece to make a circle. To get a square edge I then bore the mortice using the parting tool not quite square to the face, angle the handle away from you to bore with a little bit of clearance for the tool. This technique is probably all wrong but for the past few days I have thrown all the books out of the window and am just doing what feels right :)

chucks are much better for hold some thing as there can be a lot of waste using a face plate

It just takes about an 1/8th inch, and I would use that as a foot anyway. Lot less than cutting a dovetail for a chuck.
 
bellringer":r1ocxxzr said:
But with you method you still have screws

True, I guess that could be a problem for something dainty but I am noted for "over engineering" :) I doubt you will ever see something that isn't a bit on the chunky side from me. I see beauty in functionality as well as being able to admire the skill and artistry of work well beyond my own capabilities.
 
I've used that nova g3 chuck for the last 4 or 5 years and its been great, never let me down. That is a great deal with 3 sets of jaws, I think I paid that just for the chuck with 1 set of jaws.
 
I can't speak for other chucks, as all that I've used is your first choice, the evolution.
All I can say is it's brilliant. Git some great design features, like the rounded backs to the jaw grips, to save knuckle damage. The stainless steel removes any worry at all about rust, and the quality of engineering is just superb.
You also have the fact is compatible with Axi's entire range of jaws, which is a lot cheaper than many.
I personally use the cheap wood jaw set, and cut the size I need for the job at hand. By using thick wood I can trim off the old grip and resize it several times before I need to cut more wood jaws and mount them.
There is one flaw with the evolution. In order to use it with a reversible lathe, in reverse, you need to alter it a little with a drill, and fit a pair of tiny grub screws that they supply for the purpose. But then I think many chucks just can't be used in reverse.

I've read a lot on other chucks, and never once regretted my choice of the evolution. It's shorter in its protrusion too, puts less stress on your bearings, and leaves more of the width of your lathe available too.

Nic.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for that Nic. The evolution does appeal to me though as I said I have no del basis for judgement. I like Axi as a company and it makes sense to get the lot from them.
Not sure what these 'wooden' jaws are, I will have to have another look on the site.
 
Hello Graham,
I went away from nova 2 and sold it, I bought the evolution with std jaws. Main reason at time was get thread and spindle ie mt2, I have nothing against nova chucks but when I needed to replace scroll plate teknatool following an enquiry from me quoted about 30 dollars plus postage and Record the only uk supplier wanted £60.00 total to replace parts with an advertised 5 year warranty however you need to read the small print. My own personal opinion is its a rip off and as previously stated I'm tight fisted so for these reasons another or repaired nova didn't sit with me at all happily.
The evolution is a good chuck, its bigger much bigger than nova2 and works very well for me plus its made in uk and all parts are supplied by Ax.
Its not cheaper to buy but if your spending a lot of money and not buying through a club ie club discount my opinion is you should be able to negotiate a very keen deal, in my opinion you should really push it. I think you may be surprised at the deal you can get if you do.

Good luck and all best wishes.

Rend.
 
I'd second that actually, I bought my Evolution chuck with my lathe, and just by asking nicely I got a fair amount off the cost of the chuck simply on the basis of buying the two at once (and having missed an offer on the same pair of items the week before).

http://www.axminster.co.uk/100mm-wood-jaw-plates

http://www.axminster.co.uk/150mm-wood-jaw-plates

That's the wood jaw sets. You simply mark, drill and mount wooden slabs on the front, then turn them down to make 4 jaws of any shape or diameter that you need, mounted on the metal jaws underneath. If you used a good hardwood, you can mark them up properly and keep them for future use too. Personally I use 2 inch larch or good solid pine, as it's softer than most of what I use and won't mark what it grips. My main jaws I've used (I'm not a prolific turner, and still very much a learner) I've just turned a stepped shape to the front, to grip all sorts of diameters, but if anything doesn't fit just right, I'll pare down the shape till it fits nicely.

Great system, and saves a heap buying steel jaws. I got the idea from a professional turner that has dozens of sets of hardwood jaws for all sorts of purposes premade and set aside for particular uses. I can't tell you who, it was some book or video a year or so ago. The only fiddly bit is the marking and drilling to get the mounting screws to fit just right and have the jaws fairly snug fitting, but that's not too tough especially with a drill press.

Nic.
 
renderer01":10294n4c said:
I bought the evolution with std jaws.
Rend.
Ahh. OK, so which of the multitude of jaws are considered 'standard' ? as I don't think it actually comes with a set

And yes, always worth trying for a discount.
 
nicguthrie":175jue8x said:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/100mm-wood-jaw-plates

http://www.axminster.co.uk/150mm-wood-jaw-plates

That's the wood jaw sets. You simply mark, drill and mount wooden slabs on the front, then turn them down to make 4 jaws of any shape or diameter that you need, mounted on the metal jaws underneath. If you used a good hardwood, you can mark them up properly and keep them for future use too. Personally I use 2 inch larch or good solid pine, as it's softer than most of what I use and won't mark what it grips. My main jaws I've used (I'm not a prolific turner, and still very much a learner) I've just turned a stepped shape to the front, to grip all sorts of diameters, but if anything doesn't fit just right, I'll pare down the shape till it fits nicely.

Great system, and saves a heap buying steel jaws. I got the idea from a professional turner that has dozens of sets of hardwood jaws for all sorts of purposes premade and set aside for particular uses. I can't tell you who, it was some book or video a year or so ago. The only fiddly bit is the marking and drilling to get the mounting screws to fit just right and have the jaws fairly snug fitting, but that's not too tough especially with a drill press.

Nic.
You know what ? Some days I just think I am so thick. I looked at these earlier today after your post and thought, yeah well, how the hell am I going to shape them ? Didm't occur to me that I would have a lathe to do it with. (hammer) (hammer) (homer)
 
Had a quick look in Ax catalogue online and im pretty sure these are the jaws I bought with the chuck mate.
Type C 100mm Dovetail Jaws
But you should choose those that suit you best.
All best.

Rend.
 
Things to consider about a scroll Chuck.
Do you need one? Or can you mount the piece you want to turn a different way. There is no one correct way, and all others are wrong, rather many different ways. Some easier, cheaper or safer.
Can you hold the piece between centers, on a faceplate or on a screw Chuck?
A scroll Chuck has 4 distinct parts. The mounting plate or thread to fix it onto the nose of the spindle. Then there is the body that houses the large screw which makes it work. At the front end there are the three or four jaws that move in and out radially from the centerfield of the Chuck. Then last of all the actual gripping jaws that either squeeze down onto a male spigot on the workpiece or expand out into a groove or hole in the workpiece. The big advantage of a scroll Chuck is that it is possible to mount almost any shape lump of wood and turn it in such a way that it is not obvious how it was mounted on the lathe. So a 100mm scroll Chuck is pretty usefully but it will cost over a hundred pounds by the time you pay for the correct mounting plate and a suitable simple set of jaws. Get hold of an Axminster catalogue and study the pictures carefully. They are very good photographs. Then you will understand better the items needed. I own a lot of Axminster Tools and machines but they are certainly not the only makers. Mine work well for me.
 
I picked up my new AT1628VS Friday from Axminster Devon, and noticed all the store prices were being changed. I was told the new catalogue out on Jan 1st has a lot of price increases (seems they only review prices annually).

Looks like the lathes will be increasing in price then, so best ordered this year if you are sure it's the one for you. I did get a good deal on the evolution when purchased with the lathe as well. My existing K10's and jaws fit this one as well.

I'll do a review in a months time, but all looks superb at the moment. My 1416vs is in the for sale section now.

Phil
 
Hi Simon. Thanks for the links, they are pretty much reinforcing my inclination to go with the Axi.

Kieth - No I am not sure I need a chuck, not sure about anything at the moment but It seems likely and makes sense to me to get a decent one now while I am able rather than find I need one later when the funds may not be available.

And Phil, I just hope they don't go up to much :)
 
Woodmonkey":24ze3200 said:
The 1628 is going up by a whopping £150 :cry:
Ye Gods and little horses. thats more than 10%. Or put another way, thats the cost of a good chuck.
Might have to persuade swimbo that sooner is better than later.
 
There is no doubt you could manage without a chuck, but if you turn a variety of things, like most hobby turners, nothing beats its versatility. You still have the option of making up various holding devices for out of the ordinary, one off tasks, but I think you would soon get fed up faffing around with custom made jaws and jigs just to carry out every day turning tasks. Having said that, I know a lot of turners enjoy doing just that sort of thing as much as producing their finished work.
I use a chuck for most projects. Even for spindle turning I normally use a steb drive in a chuck.
"Standard" jaws would normally be around 45 -60mm, depending on the size of the chuck.

Ian
 
That's a big jump, especially as there were 33 in stock on Friday.

When I bought the lathe, I got the Evolution for £80 as part of the package, so if you are thinking of ordering, ask for a lathe and chuck deal, even if you hold off on getting the jaws for now. There is nothing wrong with the SK100 which would add £40 ish as part of a package deal, again jaws later.

Phil
 
Glad you got a decent deal Phil, you will love it. Im not that surprised its going up in price its some piece of kit, but £150 is as someone said a hell of a jump and easily the price of a good chuck.

All best wishes all.

Rend.
 

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