mock
Established Member
Can you recommend me a good box joint jig for the table saw or have one made for me i have a startrite 275 table saw single blade any recommendations would be appreciated thank's Mock
box joint jig
- Thread starter mock
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woodbrains
Established Member
Hello,
You can't fit a dado stack to your Startrite, so commercial box jigs (that I know of) won't work. You could make your own jig to work with a single blade, but it would need some sort of threaded advance mechanism, to move the work across by the finger width, but also allow for the blade thickness. You will also need a flat top ground circular saw blade. It can be done, but might be a bit of a project in itself to get it all working satisfactorily. There only needs to be a little inaccuracy and the joint will be too tight to fit, or too gappy, and run out.
I have an Incra iBox jig, which works well enough on a router table. It is quite good, but might be a little on the expensive side, if budget is tight. Don't get me wrong, they are worth the cost, but if you are only doing one of two boxes every now and then, perhaps a bit spendy. If you do have a router table, then you could make your own. I did one which worked a treat, and only got the iBox when I moved workshops and the homemade one got lost. I just fancied trying a commercial one to see how good they could be.
I can't see how a bandsaw one would work. You could cut the pins, but you would still have to chisel out the waste, and you would still have the advance mechanism to work out, with the blade allowance. It gets too complex, for something that doesn't do enough of the work.
Mike.
You can't fit a dado stack to your Startrite, so commercial box jigs (that I know of) won't work. You could make your own jig to work with a single blade, but it would need some sort of threaded advance mechanism, to move the work across by the finger width, but also allow for the blade thickness. You will also need a flat top ground circular saw blade. It can be done, but might be a bit of a project in itself to get it all working satisfactorily. There only needs to be a little inaccuracy and the joint will be too tight to fit, or too gappy, and run out.
I have an Incra iBox jig, which works well enough on a router table. It is quite good, but might be a little on the expensive side, if budget is tight. Don't get me wrong, they are worth the cost, but if you are only doing one of two boxes every now and then, perhaps a bit spendy. If you do have a router table, then you could make your own. I did one which worked a treat, and only got the iBox when I moved workshops and the homemade one got lost. I just fancied trying a commercial one to see how good they could be.
I can't see how a bandsaw one would work. You could cut the pins, but you would still have to chisel out the waste, and you would still have the advance mechanism to work out, with the blade allowance. It gets too complex, for something that doesn't do enough of the work.
Mike.
A screw advance mechanism is one option but it is not the only option. There are simpler designs around and a quick search - on youtube for example - will soon find some examples. I have never made one so have no clue how well they really work.woodbrains":1ov847f0 said:
monkeybiter
Established Member
Steve Maskery's jig is a good example of a finger joint jig with fine adjustment so that you can tune the tightness of the fit. it doesn't use a threaded advance system, does incorporate a safety guard and dust extraction [IIRC].
Most people seem to prefer to use the router table for the cutting, my preference is the table saw, either with ordinary blade for thinner fingers or a groover, I've got a 6mm which is a flat top design.
I would bet there's somebody on here who would build you one, but not being off-the-shelf could make it a bit pricey.
Most people seem to prefer to use the router table for the cutting, my preference is the table saw, either with ordinary blade for thinner fingers or a groover, I've got a 6mm which is a flat top design.
I would bet there's somebody on here who would build you one, but not being off-the-shelf could make it a bit pricey.
woodbrains
Established Member
Just4Fun":3zcyda1w said:
Hello,
Of course there are, I wasn't trying to make a complete list, just point out some pitfalls. The same problem occurs however the advance mechanism works. The workpiece must move by the pin thickness less the sawblade thickness, then the whole pin thickness, every other time. It also needs to allow the blade to nibble the waste in between. And do it with hairline accuracy, as a hair to little and the joint will never fit, and too much, be gappy and run out over the width of the joint. If you want to make boxes and not be a jig engineer, I think they are too much trouble.
On the other hand, a jig for the router table can be made in an hour, be super accurate and fixed to never go out if truth.
Mike.
siggy_7
Full time tool collector, part time woodworker
Personally I reckon the screw advance box joint jig (see woodgears.ca) is hands-down the best way to cut box joints. The problem with using a router is the bits - box joints need to be cut to the same height as the thickness of the workpiece. So for anything but really thin material, you are taking quite big cuts - and also driven to use wider finger spacing (not sure I'd want to be cutting full depth with a 4mm cutter in a single pass). You're also limited to little more than 1/2" maximum thickness for the same reasons. A table saw blade on the other hand cuts much cleaner and has no qualms cutting 3mm finger spacing in the ends of a 2x4 if you so desire. Box joints get their strength from the glue surface area, so the thinner the fingers the stronger the joint.
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Here is mine
http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2099
Plenty of detail to make your own freely available but I'm not going to make them for anyone.
http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2099
Plenty of detail to make your own freely available but I'm not going to make them for anyone.
scholar
Established Member
I eventually got round to making Matthias Wandel’s Woodgears screw advance jig. Having invested the time in making it, it is supremely easy to use and set up. Check out the online videos if you have not done so already.
I have a Woodrat and that is good for comb joints too, but it is a bit slower than the Woodgears one.
So for my money I would say the Woodgears jig any day.
Cheers
I have a Woodrat and that is good for comb joints too, but it is a bit slower than the Woodgears one.
So for my money I would say the Woodgears jig any day.
Cheers
transatlantic
Boom!
I don't see the need for the over complicated version by Matthias Wandel. Do you really need it to be that customisble? most people are going to use only a few different sizes. But I can see how it would be very fun to build!
Personally - I'd go with something like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v1QYKWgTvs
Personally - I'd go with something like this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v1QYKWgTvs
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
transatlantic":c1srfs5l said:
From my point of view, the adjustment facility is best used to avoid the joint dimensions dictating the size of the timber being used. The cut width can be fine tuned to give control over symmetrical or assymetrical finger joint and an integral number of fingers.
I did consider Matthias design but was looking for something for occasional use and not taking up too much storage room and yet versatile.
Everyone to their own eh?
mock
Established Member
thank's and if anyone fancy's make me one feel free to pm me with the model and price
Thank's Mock
Thank's Mock
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Box joint is basically an industrial machine joint. Never done by hand.
I don't see the point of faking it on small machines when there are better alternatives.
Depends on what you are making of course but easier alternatives are plain butt joint, tongue and groove (should be first option as is very effective), dovetails (hand or jig) and so on.
I don't see the point of faking it on small machines when there are better alternatives.
Depends on what you are making of course but easier alternatives are plain butt joint, tongue and groove (should be first option as is very effective), dovetails (hand or jig) and so on.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
His table saw safety is appalling - bare blade and a short reach gripper putting his hand and arm much to close to the blade. Push sticks much safer and crown guard better still. Yanks are really bad at safety - not just their gun madness!transatlantic":3qmlbgse said:
I built a very simple box joint jig for my table saw that uses a 6mm grooving blade to produce 6mm fingers.
This is the test piece that I produced with my basic jig:
I stole the idea of using a grooving blade from this thread: tablesaw-box-joint-jig-t94617.html
Unfortunately the OP's images are now missing.
The URL for the 6mm blade is: http://www.gerrymet.co.uk/acatalog/Groovers.html
Cheers,
This is the test piece that I produced with my basic jig:
I stole the idea of using a grooving blade from this thread: tablesaw-box-joint-jig-t94617.html
Unfortunately the OP's images are now missing.
The URL for the 6mm blade is: http://www.gerrymet.co.uk/acatalog/Groovers.html
Cheers,
mock
Established Member
Come on let have a few photo's of the box jigs the one you all use on the table saw
Mock
Mock
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Follow my link above then......
mock
Established Member
The only link's i can open are the you tube one' so far
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v1QYKWgTvs
Can not open these for some reason
tablesaw-box-joint-jig-t94617.html
Here is mine
http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2099
Mock
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v1QYKWgTvs
Can not open these for some reason
tablesaw-box-joint-jig-t94617.html
Here is mine
http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2099
Mock
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
mock":1ko408g8 said:
What sort of trouble do you have with http://thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2099
I've even logged out and tried it so non-members can read it (but not post comments)
mock
Established Member
oops this page could not be found - error although i have now opened it through copy and paste
Mock
Mock
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Glad you got it sorted!
