Baby Walker (or how to make a meal out of a simple project)

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wizer

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Well after MikeG's recent comments, I thought I'd better do something other than buy tools.

I wasn't going to take WIP pics on this but after the disasterwith the handle, I thought I'd give it a go. The progress starts half way through, after the box was completed. It was dovetailed on the Leigh Jig.

So after the handles cracked I decided to re-make rather than repair. First I planed up some ash:

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15mm will do:

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Then mark the handles onto the ash using the template. The template was printed from the SU plan on a plotter then stuck to some 18mm MDF, bandsawn and then cleaned up with bobbin sander, spokes, and sand paper.

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The bottom angle was cut on the SCMS.

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I then roughed out the shape on the bandsaw. I mean rough too, I need to really practice my bandsaw skills ;)

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I then stuck the template to the ash using double sided tape, making sure there was an even amount of material all around to remove. This is the first time I have template routed since my finger incident, I was a little nervous, but I was armed with a bit more knowledge this time. Although I didn't use a guard, I used paddles and steered well clear of endgrain.

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This meant that I had to do some work on the ends of the handles.

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Not a problem on the bobbin sander.

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A bit of final finenessing was called for and I reached for the Boggs spoke shaves. I love these things. I had to stop myself from going to far with them.

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Oh, forgot to say earlier that the 2 handles where stuck together with double sided tape, so when finished shaping, both where identical.

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Then I grabbed the LV LAS to clean up the faces and remove any sticky stuff left by the tape.

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I decided to drill and plug the handle to the box, so I went on to mark out and drill the holes.

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I then marked out for the round mortice.

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Then set the depth for the 24mm forstner bit and drill away

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Lovely

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Then the dowel was trimmed to size on the TS

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I then set the dowel on top of the vice so that I could turn it.

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and then used the palm sander to taper the end slightly

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Check for length

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After all this was done I thought it was best to get a finish on it before fixing the handles to the box. I couldn't make my mind up on a finish, in the end I went for Danish Oil, but it darkened the ash more than I liked.

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It then occurred to me that I had to fit the plugs, so the handles needed to be fitted to complete the finishing. I clamped the handles to the box and then screwed. The dowel went into the mortice without any problems and was a nice snug fit without the need for glue.

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Look Ma, No Cracks :D

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I cut some plug in some scrap ash, glued them in and trimmed back using a Lidl pullsaw

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Sand flush

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Then I remembered that Osmo Poly X existed, I'd used it on my work bench and was impressed with the finish and ease of use. So I ordered some from Rutlands. I applied it with a foam brush, left for about 10-20mins and rubbed off with a cloth.

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A couple of coats later and we have the finished article.

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Wow, didn't realise I'd taken so many pics. If you're still awake...

I like the finished result. Ok, so you can buy these for a fraction of what it cost me in time and money. But I enjoyed it and learned a lot.

Now, can I get back to buying tools please?? :lol:
 
I use a table router a lot for template routing and with end grain, you have to swing into it without hesitation. I also have a bit that has been designed for guitar makers and hase a shear rather than straight cut edge. You could have also got away with screwing your template onto the wood through your fixing holes. To get double sided tape off - use white spirit or naptha or much better, soften it with a heat gun and peal it away...
 
Thanks Pete, I'm not going anywhere near endgrain with a router ever again :) The bit is, indeed, a sheering bit with a bearing top and bottom. The double sided tape is plenty strong enough for this and the residue is quite minimal, but I will try some white spirit next time.
 
AT Stewmac.com you will see a clever thing called a Robo Sander. It will template sand and is a great answer to the problem you are facing with end grain routing. What I do (and an electric ukulele has tight curves with 4 potential opportunities to grab and explode) is use a 1/4" 6 tpi bandsaw blade to get as close to the pencil line as I can go - usually about 1/2mm. The router is then just tickling the surface and blowing it off rather than having to cut. Oh and another thing - when I made furniture I never used ash - gosh it's awful stuff!
 
wizer":1og7lvm7 said:
I like the finished result. Ok, so you can buy these for a fraction of what it cost me in time and money. But I enjoyed it and learned a lot.

The joy you'll get seeing your nipper walk along with it will be priceless, though!! :D

Great stuff,

Gary
 
wizer":2hg8swru said:
Now, can I get back to buying tools please?? :lol:
Are there any left for you to buy??!!

Looks good Tom- glad you managed to bring the project to a very successful conclusion. :)

Dave
 
Well done Tom!!! I knew you could! It looks excellent.....I hope your "customer" is satisfied?

There seems to be lots of fans of this Osmo Polyx Oil on here. It is something I haven't tried...........I guess that it must avoid the pee-yellow colour problem of Danish oil to be as popular as it seesm to be?

I bench-mount my belt sander for external curves like the end of the handle.....the problem with the bobbin sander in this situation is that is really designed for internal curves.....but you seem to have got a nice shape anyway.

Well done.......now, see if you can go 20 years with the tools you've got before you feel the need to splash out again!!!!

Mike
 
Hi Tom - that is the sweetest baby walker i've ever seen! Dovetails n all.

Excellent work.

Cheers

Karl
 
Great work Wizer, nice to see all that Jet Machinery of yours put to some good use :)

Harry
 
That looks like one great baby walker Wizer.
But if those photos aren`t one huge tool gloat, then i don`t know what is? :lol:
Still that doesn`t distract from a really good job.Well done.
 
That's a proper job Tom, your tools were put to get use there, very impressed with the design and finish, well done mate!
 
Lovely piece of kit - Mrs H just saw it over my shoulder and wants one now for the imminent arrival - thanks a lot, Wizer!! :lol: :lol: By the way, what make of electronic calipers are you using in the photo - quite like the look of them.
 
Looks good, Tom, I'm pleased it appears to have worked out well in the end. :wink:

I've just built an elaborate guard for shaping work on the router table. It's an adaptation of a design in one of Bill Hylton's books, with a drop down shield added to the front and dust extraction to the rear. Hopefully you'll see it in a future issue of BWW although, I haven't mentioned it to Nick yet.

The trick with a bandsaw is to try and cut one continuous curve. If you keep stopping and starting, a narrow blade will "re-track" itself, particularly when following the direction of the grain. Peter made a very good point of leaving very little material on the end-grain.

Mike, I don't think Osmo will prevent lighter timbers from becoming darker, it's still a 'Hardwax Oil' finish. By the way, I recently bought myself a belt sander a made a side-mounting jig similar to yours, as I don't have a cheap disc sander anymore. It seems okay for larger work but, it's really quite dangerous with small stuff - I was sanding some wooden knobs the other day and saw half of them shoot across the workshop! :shock: :D I think I may have to go for another cheap disc sander on eBay, preferabley 12", at least until I can buy a lathe.
 
Wizer - nice, crisp piece of work. I've got that little DW palm sander as well, good piece of kit. Did you know that you can got hold of an adaptor doohickie thingie from a DW agent so that you can use it with a shop vac? Makes a big difference in use :wink: - Rob
 
yuh I found the adapter on D&M's site, but they want £15 delivery. So I'll wait until I have some time to go over there, or even their show next month.
 

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