my ZCI on mine are 3mm ply made from 2 layers of 1.5mm, with another small section of 1.5mm added to reinforce the un supported section, i have also considered making them from HIPS which is not as brittle as acrylic, im planning on trying to computer cut my next batch on a new die/plotter cutter i got for work today ether in HIPS or the thin ply.
Axminster AW10 Saw Owners - What jigs do you use?
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Do you cut through the alu with your wood blade?
I'm still a little new to this, but people seem to suggest these are "throw away" items, how exactly do they get worn out? presumably once the blade has made its full cut there's no further contact?
I was thinking to potentially flush trim using a router from the original plate, onto whatever material i decide on... i've seen a few people using hardboard, but it looks well sketchy, there's one video on youtube.
I'm still a little new to this, but people seem to suggest these are "throw away" items, how exactly do they get worn out? presumably once the blade has made its full cut there's no further contact?
I was thinking to potentially flush trim using a router from the original plate, onto whatever material i decide on... i've seen a few people using hardboard, but it looks well sketchy, there's one video on youtube.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
ZCIs get worn out in two ways.
First, sawblades wobble a bit and the slot becomes wider at the front than further back.
Secondly, as soon as you lower the blade, the ZCI is only ZC at the sides, it is not ZC at the front so you can still get chipping of, for example, MFC
It's a pity that this saw appears to be so unfriendly in this regard, I do hear what people say.
First, sawblades wobble a bit and the slot becomes wider at the front than further back.
Secondly, as soon as you lower the blade, the ZCI is only ZC at the sides, it is not ZC at the front so you can still get chipping of, for example, MFC
It's a pity that this saw appears to be so unfriendly in this regard, I do hear what people say.
MattRoberts
Established Member
Someone with a 3d printer could make a fortune churning out blanks for this saw!
monkeybiter
Established Member
I think there would be scope for making a carrier/cradle that fits into the relieved area and has a rectangular rebate perhaps 6-9mm deep with adjuster grub-screws in which to fit owner-made inserts.
MattRoberts
Established Member
Unfortunately, the arbor washer and riving knife also cause problems for home made inserts.monkeybiter":2dq0sj7v said:
If someone (giant) could make an insert blank that had a rebate for the perimeter, a slot for the riving knife and a recess for the arbor washer / nut, then all you'd need to do is to insert it and raise the blade to make a zero clearance cut.
I'd buy a bunch!
Both the caddy or just cncd replacements both sound like good ideas, surprised someone isn't already on it. I'd certainly shell out for a few as well, save some hassle. Got enough jobs to do 
If I had more room, I'd fancy a cnc... still trying to work out how to squeeze in a bandsaw, smaller bench... it bandsaw ... hah that's me all day at the moment.
If I had more room, I'd fancy a cnc... still trying to work out how to squeeze in a bandsaw, smaller bench... it bandsaw ... hah that's me all day at the moment.
MattRoberts
Established Member
Just to illustrate, here's an upside down view of one of my more fitted inserts...
monkeybiter
Established Member
MattRoberts
Established Member
Monkey, does the arbor washer not hit the bottom of yours at max blade height?
monkeybiter":1f1z9zd0 said:
my current ply one looks similar to yours Monkey & thats what im working on making with my computer cutter.
my intention is to have the knife slot pre cut so as Matt said, you fit & just raise the blade.
nothing hits the bottom of mine when the blade is fully up, its only 4.5mm thick though
MattRoberts
Established Member
Ah, that could be it then. My wooden one was about 20mm thick for stability
monkeybiter
Established Member
MattRoberts":1tfo9e66 said:
With the blade raised to ~100mm the 'arbor washer' [with the holes for the tommy bar] is approx 22mm below the table surface.
Do you cut through the alu with your wood blade?
Yes I just fit the blank insert and screw it down. Remove the riving knife. Then I clamp a piece of wood over the top of the insert for support to stop the insert bending upwards (and in case it all goes horribly wrong it might stop the insert from flying off). Then I run the saw and wind the blade up through the insert. Finally remove the insert and extend the slot with a saw and file to allow the riving knife through.
As Steve says it's not really zero clearance for long, but it is a world better than the massive gap the factory fitted insert leaves. The factory insert on my TS200 only covers one side of the blade the rest is missing a centimetre to allow for tilting the blade.
-Neil
Yes I just fit the blank insert and screw it down. Remove the riving knife. Then I clamp a piece of wood over the top of the insert for support to stop the insert bending upwards (and in case it all goes horribly wrong it might stop the insert from flying off). Then I run the saw and wind the blade up through the insert. Finally remove the insert and extend the slot with a saw and file to allow the riving knife through.
As Steve says it's not really zero clearance for long, but it is a world better than the massive gap the factory fitted insert leaves. The factory insert on my TS200 only covers one side of the blade the rest is missing a centimetre to allow for tilting the blade.
-Neil
