1mm recess for inlaying A4 steel plate?

[MattRoberts]

How thick is your panel? Have you tested the strength of a magnet on one side and the metal on the other? You could just attach the metal on the reverse then.

 

[ColeyS1]

Could you give us a clue what the metals for ?

Magnetic plate, for sticking up various templates, game boards, reference charts, diagrams, notes, etc...

Oh I see. Frog tape and magnetic paint could also work. Brushes on like ordinary paint but contains lots of metal. Does need rubbing down alot in between coats though. Think it cost about £10 from b & q.

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[custard]

magnetic paint could also work.

I've seen that tried on a workshop cabinet, the idea was you'd hold plans and cutting lists onto the cupboard door with small magnets. Despite multiple coats of magnetic paint it didn't work. Instead they used a thin galvanised plate (galvanised to avoid reaction with Oak) in place of the wooden panel on a frame and panel door. Maybe their magnetic paint was just crepe and other brands are better?

 

[ColeyS1]

I think I used 3 or 4 coats. You certainly wouldn't be able to hang anything heavy. I only attach postcard sized things to it. I wonder if neodymium magnets might stick better... umm

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[bugbear]

Googling on this topic, I found a lot of people using power routers, but thinking that you have to rig up "something" so you can bridge over the large area (8x11 inches, in round numbers). I saw large bases, and even rail systems.

That's too much like hard work.

All you do is LEAVE part of the area unrouted, e.g. work over the area making 1 1/2" wide routed strips separate by 1/2" unrouted strips. The unrouted strips act as supports.

When all the recessed areas are at full depth and flat, simply work down the supports strips to the reference recess level by hand, either with a chisel or a small plane.

BugBear

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Start in the middle and work outwards, even easier.

 

[bugbear]

Start in the middle and work outwards, even easier.

Oh, with the router supported on one side, not two, you mean? I would rather not do that with a hand router, but I can see it working well with the powered type.

BugBearr

 

[Tasky]

How thick is your panel? Have you tested the strength of a magnet on one side and the metal on the other? You could just attach the metal on the reverse then.

15mm.
And the reverse will have something decorative on it - That's actually the outside face, when everything is assembled and closed up.

I wonder if neodymium magnets might stick better... umm

That's what I'm using. Little tiny ones. I still have to carve the game pieces, and stick one of these things up the bum of each piece. Easier to do that, though, as it's just the right size drill bit.

All you do is LEAVE part of the area unrouted, e.g. work over the area making 1 1/2" wide routed strips separate by 1/2" unrouted strips. The unrouted strips act as supports.

I'd planned to try that with just a chisel anyway, although no reason it wouldn't work with a router I suppose.
I was looking at a 450mm bit of scrap to try an Allen Router on, so that length'd bridge the gaps... Not sure if it'd flex down too far in the middle, though.
Will hopefully get to try it out this weekend!!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Start in the middle and work outwards, even easier.

Oh, with the router supported on one side, not two, you mean? I would rather not do that with a hand router, but I can see it working well with the powered type.

BugBearr

Yes, sorry - I was not think of a hand router, which is not following the thread really.

 

[custard]

And the reverse will have something decorative on it - That's actually the outside face, when everything is assembled and closed up.

So the magnet has to operate through 14mm of Oak in order to grip the metal sheet on the other side of the wooden board?

If so, that's not going to work.

The magnetic force can just about reach through a few thicknesses of paper, after that it's pretty much out of grip.

 

[Tasky]

So the magnet has to operate through 14mm of Oak in order to grip the metal sheet on the other side of the wooden board?

No-no-no-nooooooooo..... That's why I can't put the steel on the reverse, as Matt suggested... That, and the 15mm of oak between faces, of course! :lol:

 

[AndyT]

Sorry if I'm a bit late but I just came across this video of Paul Sellers doing something very similar. He's setting some thin diamond sharpening plates into a block of wood. He cuts three shallow rectangles, which if joined up (like BugBear said) would be about A4 size. He uses a hand router.

[youtube]dVsfkVR9VmI[/youtube]

It may be too late to mention the other thing he does, which is to use plywood so he can see when he has cut through just one layer...

 

[Tasky]

He uses a hand router.
It may be too late to mention the other thing he does, which is to use plywood so he can see when he has cut through just one layer...

Appreciated, but I have no hand router (still!!) and am doing this in oak.
I did notice his accompanying blog article also appears to show a photo of him doing this same project, but bevel-down chiselling out the recesses in strips and using the hand router to smooth it off...

 

[Ian down london way]

Disk sander attachment on an electric hand held drill?

 

[ColeyS1]

Use a mallet and chisel. Do lots of feathery cuts like you would chopping in a hinge. Don't worry too much about the depth so longs you go deeper than you need to. Knock the feathers off and chisel out the rest- humpy bumpy won't matter. Put a screw in each corner and perhaps a few near the middle so they measure 1 mm from the surface. Bed it down on epoxy and wait for it to cure.

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