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(Yet!) another Wadkin 10AGS restoration thread

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AndrewS

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Afternoon all,
After a couple of false starts, I’m delighted to finally have taken delivery of a lovely, unmolested single-phase 10AGS, complete with original manual dating back to 1967 if my research is correct.
It was an inauspicious start, impromptu roadworks blocked access to the end of the driveway but the contractor kindly offloaded it into my trailer and, after removing the cast table extensions and dust extractor hood, I managed to wrestle it into the workshop with the help of an engine crane.
First impressions are pretty good. I prefer patina to shine, but it must be 100% functionally. Currently rise/fall is restricted. The blade is only protruding 74mm (max) and won’t retract fully. The worm gear and quadrant look good - now that I can see them, having dug out 5 dustpans of sawdust... So further investigation needed.
It ran up just fine but there is a faint rumble so I’ll do an uncoupled run on the motor to listen to that properly, and will also replace the spindle bearings.
Evenings of happy fettling ahead!
 

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AndrewS

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So, having removed the top and delved a little deeper, it’s not bad.
The restricted blade travel was nothing more than sawdust accumulated in the riving knife mounting plate slots.
The spindle has evidently been overhauled at some point because the bearings are smooth but it has a fairly new looking 2-belt pulley versus a 3-belt pulley on the motor. Both belts are past their best.
With a 1.5kW motor, are two belts sufficient or is it worth tracking down a three belt spindle pulley?
The motor bearings need replacing but that’s about it. The condition of internal parts is otherwise superb; original paint all round, no damage, and clean, rust-free machined surfaces.
With a little TLC, it should be good for another 54 years!
 

MusicMan

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Looking good. Two belts are probably OK, just try it and see if it works reliably. There's less power loss with two.

Do you have the fence rails and the fence?
 

KingAether

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A good looking start for a resto project if you do intend to go further than the dusting out inside; ill be watching and doing mine also now i have some money to put in to it.

Looking good. Two belts are probably OK, just try it and see if it works reliably. There's less power loss with two.
I did wonder why mine came with 3 new spares but only 2 on and 1 older off already
 

AndrewS

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Looking good. Two belts are probably OK, just try it and see if it works reliably. There's less power loss with two.

Do you have the fence rails and the fence?
Thank you.
Yes, it came complete with the pressed steel extension table, long fence rails and the earlier style rip fence. All removed to facilitate grappling with it!
 

AndrewS

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The manual is a little ambiguous regarding belts. In the tensioning narrative and parts list it references three belts but all sketches of the spindle show a two belt pulley. I can only assume that the design changed from two to three somewhere down the line?
 

aebersold

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Like you I’m a sucker for the old heavyweight machines, have refurbished a couple of wadkins and they are fantastic quality. That’s a great purchase and good for accurate work especially with such a sturdy, well supported fence. The motor bearings should be a doddle. Personally I prefer the ’shine’ version and tend to go ott, but a nice sprayed finish and smart clean workings is a joy to use, easy to clean and sets you up for many years of trouble free motoring. I think if it was manufactured with 3 belts I would probably restore. Have fun and look forward to a progress report !
 

Fitzroy

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Mine has had a new single phase motor at sometime and it only has a double pulley. Never slipped in use even cutting to full depth. However my belts are quite different in length such that one tends to ‘gallop’ and is noisy. Been on the ‘round tuit’ list since I bought the saw.
 

AndrewS

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Does any of you learned types happen to know the correct part number for the belts?

What came off look like Fenner Classic Z600 (very faint markings) which Eriks list on their website, but is that correct? Having cut one, it measures 610mm and that seems about right, e.g. they were tensioned in the saw. To confuse matters though, the AMS website lists a 21.5” belt..?

@Fitzroy - if they are Z600, they are classed “Precision Build” so no need to match them, just throw a new pair on.

Many thanks.
 

AndrewS

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And a couple more pics this morning:

Repurposed Land Rover Series 2/3 footwell(?!) factory-fit dust chute.

Slot in the riving knife mount I found packed with dust and limiting blade travel.

Two groove spindle pulley.

General condition after removing 9 dustpans of dust - not sure much use was made of the dust collector...
 

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Fitzroy

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That’s an interesting mix on the saw, the old style fence but the rise and fall riving knife which was later, perhaps a transition model. It should take a 12” blade if needed for deeper cuts. Although the 12” blade will not fully retract. Dump the Clark blade and grab a pair of Freud ones, 10” and 12”.
 

AndrewS

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That’s an interesting mix on the saw, the old style fence but the rise and fall riving knife which was later, perhaps a transition model. It should take a 12” blade if needed for deeper cuts. Although the 12” blade will not fully retract. Dump the Clark blade and grab a pair of Freud ones, 10” and 12”.
Interesting observation Fitz, thanks.
Yup, Clarke blade will be retired pronto. Planning to get dedicated ripping and cross-cutting blades and yes, I may get a 300mm blade for occasional use - good call.
 

julianf

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I have an ags10 with factory dust cowl "thing" over the motor etc.

I have the cowl hooked up to a large dust extractor, but it's still fairly poor.

The saw has so many holes all over the place to let on air, which, I guess, shouldn't matter to the dust in the saw, but, still, it builds up inside in drifts.
 

KingAether

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That’s an interesting mix on the saw, the old style fence but the rise and fall riving knife which was later, perhaps a transition model. It should take a 12” blade if needed for deeper cuts. Although the 12” blade will not fully retract. Dump the Clark blade and grab a pair of Freud ones, 10” and 12”.
I believe the fence changed a lot later than the riving knife.
 

Hornbeam

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One of the problems with the old style fence is that they can crab as you slide them so they arent perfectly parallel with the saw blade.
I fitted a 2 piece sliding false fence out of turfnol o mine so I could adjust the point where the effective fence ended to stop the risk of material jamming during ripping
 

smugdruggler

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Looking at the spindle with the two belt pulley it would seem that you will not be able to upgrade to a three belt without changing the spindle as there is not enough thread.

I agree with Fitzroy, if it ain't broke......
 

julianf

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I believe the fence changed a lot later than the riving knife.
Likewise.

Mine has the older fence, but the newer riving knife mechanism.


Curiously the fence on mine got damaged by the courier when I purchased the saw. I bought the newer style fence off an ags250 but then an original front to back fence came up at the same time.

So I have both fences here, now.

The newer one would require me to drill the horizontal round bar, as the holes in my saw are in different places, but that's no big deal, however...

I don't dislike the old fence design enough to bother!

So the new fence is still "shoved" under the bench whilst I procrastinate on what to do with it (I've not decided, so am afraid it's not for sale currently)
 

KingAether

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@julianf Do they both ride on the same size bar? I've seen quotes online of 31mm online for the old fence rail, mine looks more like 40mm but i never trust tape measures. I have the extra long bars and no room right now so want to get a short one and need to know if any will work
 
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