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JayDub

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6 Feb 2012
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Location
Bangor, North Wales
I recently bought me some Gorilla wood glue, thinking it was a good idea due to popularity and some recommendations, I am dissapointed to find that its no better in any respects than anything I have tried before, not as strong as some others, in fact the (German) stuff I got from Lidl is stronger, just not waterproof. I want waterproof, fairly quick drying and strong bond. I saw some foaming glue recently which supposedly dried in 30 mins, and was virtually impossible to break the joint, but I can't remember the name - any suggestions anyone please? What are most tradesmen using lately?
 
If by gorilla glue you mean the PU type? I would not use that in my workshop. I use it on site where speed is needed especially in winter months. For workshop use i would use PVA type. My favourite is titebond. I have some Gorilla pva glue but i am not really taken with it. Once it is all gone, i will not buy it again :)
 
I've used gorilla polyurethane glue with no problems plenty of times.

I find that all the pu glues are very similar the only difference is the setting times.

in general I have a bottle or tube of pu (bubble) glue, a bottle of titebond 2 or 3 and a pack of mitre mate (super glue with catalyst spray) with me on every job. I also have epoxy with fillers for more specific jobs

they all have their appropriate uses and used properly give strong reliable joints
 
carlb40":1jw4828m said:
If by gorilla glue you mean the PU type? I would not use that in my workshop. I use it on site where speed is needed especially in winter months. For workshop use i would use PVA type. My favourite is titebond. I have some Gorilla pva glue but i am not really taken with it. Once it is all gone, i will not buy it again :)
Its the Gorilla PVA I'm not impressed with actually, I'm looking at Everbuild Lumberjack PU or titebond PU, I'll keep with the German PVA for light work, and where time isn't an issue. I'm interested in the cascemite though, I want to look into that more.
 
If I feel the need, I use lumberjack PU glue, both 5 and 30 minute stuff. Has it's place, every bit as good as gorilla, and much cheaper.
Mostly though, I use titebond 3. It does almost everything that PU glue does, equally as well, but without the mess.
Spendy though, so I use that on smaller, finer things. Bigger stuff, or glue-hungry stuff, I still reach for the PU.
Hope that helps.
Jake
 
Heath Robinson":godjqp6a said:
If I feel the need, I use lumberjack PU glue, both 5 and 30 minute stuff. Has it's place, every bit as good as gorilla, and much cheaper.
Mostly though, I use titebond 3. It does almost everything that PU glue does, equally as well, but without the mess.
Spendy though, so I use that on smaller, finer things. Bigger stuff, or glue-hungry stuff, I still reach for the PU.
Hope that helps.
Jake
That helps alot Jake, thanks. I'll look into Titebond 3 as well.
 
o0dunk0o":3m95e9b5 said:
is it just for general use out do you have a specific job to glue?
Its for general use, both Hard and softwoods, joints, small cupboards, mirror/picture frames, boxes and also interior and exterior furniture and garden items.
 
I agree with Heath, you want titebond.

I use titebond 2 for most of the internal stuff especially in the kitchen (it's safe for direct food contact) and titebond 3 for anything external

for the picture frames I'd use mitre mate, it's handy stuff to keep around (makes a good replacement for plasters too)
 
Have used the pva type with no problems (so far). The pu type is good as well just dont get it on your bare hands(or anything else that may be exposed) as it is a real b ugger to remove.
I will be needing to restock my meager supplies soon and might give the titebond a go.
 
Yep, I'm gonna give the Lumberjack PU a try I think, Not sure if I'll go for 5 or 30 min stuff yet. I spose 30 min would be fast enough. The Gorilla stuff I have doesn't seem to say what type it is other than D3, but it is water soluble, the other thing I dislike about it is, on darker wood if you don't completely wipe off the excess straight away, it soon dries white and powder like then needs sanding to remove. Thanks everyone for your input.
 
On the 30 minute stuff ive ever used its usually been ready to scrape off and gone proper hard after an hour. Might be just the workshops not very hot- usually 8-12 c. Although five minute stuff sounds fast, ive never had a job go wrong by the glue curing too quickly
 
MARK.B.":lvhfg3lj said:
Have used the pva type with no problems (so far). The pu type is good as well just dont get it on your bare hands(or anything else that may be exposed) as it is a real b ugger to remove.

the best stuff I've found for getting it off your hands is Slig Spezial, you need to do it whilst it's still soft.

I rarely suffer from the dreaded Pu black finger ;-)
 
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