TV Cabinet/Cupboard

[woodman2]

#-o Help/advise please. Nearing the end of the installation of a purpose made unit which includes a cupboard (with no back) to hide a large modern TV. The customer wants the TV installed on a pull out arm (which has been provided) which will come forward of the doors for viewing and be hidden behind the doors when not required. The house is of modern construction. With the weight of the TV, and the arm bringing it out about 500mm, the arm bracket requires a firm anchor. The 'wall end' bracket has 3 holes and comes with 3 x10mm raw plugs and coach screws. This would be fine if dealing with concrete or brick but all there seems to be is plasterboard, a small gap and then what appears to be a 2" soft (thermalite?) block.

The question is how to achieve a secure anchor for what must be £1,500 of TV.

I have read about 'resin' anchors but have no experience of them. Even if a thick wooden block was first fixed to the wall then this still gives the same fixing issue.

Another (extreme!) thought is to drill right through the outside brick and but a metal plate on the outside of the house and then secure the TV bracket using threaded bar.

Over to you Gentlemen (and any Ladies)


Woodman2 #-o

 

[MMUK]

I've come across similar in the past and used resin injection with allthread studs. Just don't torque up or put any weight on for 24 hours to ensure that the resin has cured properly.

 

[Mike.S]

Doesn't answer your question but as an aside 3 x 10mm rawl plugs as fixings seems modest, unless it's a light TV, so I'd check that the arm is suitable for the job - they're normally rated for maximum size/weight TV.

 

[tim burr]

As above, resin/chemifix some threaded stud into the blockwork for fixing. Also chop out some of the plasterboard and replace with solid blocks of timber tight to the blockwork to prevent any flex that the gap between plasterboard and blockwork would have.

 

[hanser]

Those light weight Thermalite blocks are like cheese - great if you are nailing skirtings but not so good if you trying to fix anything load bearing.

A few thoughts

Modern TV's are a lighter than than their predecessors ( remember when taking an old Sony to the tip it was a 2 man lift :shock: ) Nevertheless the load on the arm at full extension is still quite large.

If you use nylon fixings use an ordinary drill with a slightly smaller diameter and use none hammer mode. This will give a cleaner and snugger hole. Use a bit of vaseline/soap on the screw thread to reduce the risk of the fixing turning.

Can you approach the problem slightly differently? Could you fix something into the back TV space in the cupboard, low level and braced that would take the foot of the arm? After all it's going to be covered with large TV or a closed door.
Obviously you might have to fix the cupboard to the wall to avoid the risk of toppling over.

 

[SteveF]

could u cut the wall and put some metal bar \ plate right down to the floor?

most of the weight is downward and a few bolts \screws would hold it back to the blocks when arm extended

 

[blackrodd]

Sounds like you have a dry lined wall that you are working on.
at the time the dry lining was being carried out, there should be solid "dabs" in the area in question for any fixings. you need to replicate this.
I would suggest that you neatly cut away the plasterboard in the fixing area, make up a solid timber infill piece. flush with the plasterboard surface.
Grip fill, drill and (brown) plug screw the timber infill piece with 75mm x 5mm screws , or masonry fixing screws, making sure the fixing positions are clear of, but under and supporting the arms mentioned.
After fixing, I would leave it for 3 or 4 hours and then try and rip it off the wall! sounds daft, I know.
When successful, finish instalation. H TH
Regards Rodders

 

[srp]

If the job can stand it pricewise, use Fischer Aircrete anchors. I asked a very similar question on the other forum not long ago and got this answer. You'll need to cut out some 50 mm holes in the plasterboard and have a selection various thickness mdf or ply discs with 12 mm holes in the middle so you have something solid to prevent the plasterboard from distorting. The anchors themselves come in a box of 25, so a bit pricey, also not commonly stocked so you'll have to order them - ring the Fischer tech department who will give you very good advice on exactly how to use them and what sort of load they will take. I fitted a 2.4 m batten to the wall with 5 anchors and then tested it by hanging from it, no problem at all.

 

[Setch]

Could you not fit a back into the unit to fix the arm to?

 

[The Bear]

Srp

Where did you get those Fischer anchors from, quick google and I can't find any stockists

Mark

 

[rafezetter]

If the job can stand it pricewise, use Fischer Aircrete anchors. I asked a very similar question on the other forum not long ago and got this answer. You'll need to cut out some 50 mm holes in the plasterboard and have a selection various thickness mdf or ply discs with 12 mm holes in the middle so you have something solid to prevent the plasterboard from distorting. The anchors themselves come in a box of 25, so a bit pricey, also not commonly stocked so you'll have to order them - ring the Fischer tech department who will give you very good advice on exactly how to use them and what sort of load they will take. I fitted a 2.4 m batten to the wall with 5 anchors and then tested it by hanging from it, no problem at all.

I was going to suggest something similar, but a bit cheaper:

Do the wood block as suggested, but I used more common expanding anchor bolts, 6 of in the wall mounting plate of my extending tv arm (which goes out about 2 foot with a 46" tv on the end of it) - I put 4 top 2 bottom, as the weight is pivoting more at the top at full extension - 4 years and lots of to-ing an fro-ing and no issues at all.. well almost....

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-...tracking url&gclid=CPLdrqjeirsCFSYHwwodnzYAlA

Choose a size to suit, and you can always re-drill the mounting plate holes larger or in different places if you need to .

Make sure you use a good level!! - nothing more niggly annoying than a slightly lopsided TV (ended up having to mortar fill the holes and re-drill).