TS thin strip cutting jig

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seaco

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I use to cut small strips etc. from a board as I have little room to the left of my saw.

You first measure from the blade to the round section on the jig to get the initial measurement then make your first cut then all you do is move the saw guide pushing the board over untill it just touches the jig again, simple and works well...

STA70562Large.jpg


A really simple one for when I'm cutting thin strips I find that if the blade is close to the guide there can be a problem pushing the wood past the blade so this solves this and stops any chance of binding...

STA70563Large.jpg
 
I like it, but would it not be better to have your "sub-fence" drawn back slightly, so it doesn't extend past the last cutting tooth at the front of the blade...?

What I'm trying to say is, when ripping timber, kickback usually occurs because the timber comes in to contact with the rising teeth at the back. As the timber is being cut, stresses are released and it can want to curl towards or away from the blade - it just seems as though your method might encourage contact with the rear teeth?
 
OPJ":27errk70 said:
I like it, but would it not be better to have your "sub-fence" drawn back slightly, so it doesn't extend past the last cutting tooth at the front of the blade...?

What I'm trying to say is, when ripping timber, kickback usually occurs because the timber comes in to contact with the rising teeth at the back. As the timber is being cut, stresses are released and it can want to curl towards or away from the blade - it just seems as though your method might encourage contact with the rear teeth?

Good point I do usually do that but I just stuck it on for the pic should have been more careful ... :oops:
 
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