Startrite t30 Spindle moulder 240v advice please :-)

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Sundaydriver

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Just purchased my first SM. Will be collecting it with any luck next weekend.
Thanks to all on here for giving me the confidence to go ahead and not spend £2k on a fancy router table set up. Deema’s thread especially useful. I’ve done a ton of research, you tube, etc.
Hoping to get a diy kitchen build underway and perhaps only concentrate on making doors, while buying off the shelf base units locally.
Unsure if just mrmdf or proper wood.

My question initially is, will I need a 32a supply ? I briefly had a Sedgwick PT , and that ran with my 16a supply that was installed by my sparky with dedicated 16a circuit no issue.
The seller of the T30 has told me the Startrite will trip my 16a , and I will need a 32a supply.
Any thoughts ?
 
Help pls ? 😄
Sundaydriver said:
Just purchased my first SM. Will be collecting it with any luck next weekend.
Thanks to all on here for giving me the confidence to go ahead and not spend £2k on a fancy router table set up. Deema’s thread especially useful. I’ve done a ton of research, you tube, etc.
Hoping to get a diy kitchen build underway and perhaps only concentrate on making doors, while buying off the shelf base units locally.
Unsure if just mrmdf or proper wood.

My question initially is, will I need a 32a supply ? I briefly had a Sedgwick PT , and that ran with my 16a supply that was installed by my sparky with dedicated 16a circuit no issue.
The seller of the T30 has told me the Startrite will trip my 16a , and I will need a 32a supply.
Any thoughts ?
Click to expand...
 
A quick google peruse of single phase T30's show them with 16A plugs attached, and given that most machine plates show it as being 1KW rated then I deduce that it's only startup current that might be high given the inertia of the spindle itself + some large cutter block...
 
imageel said:
A quick google peruse of single phase T30's show them with 16A plugs attached, and given that most machine plates show it as being 1KW rated then I deduce that it's only startup current that might be high given the inertia of the spindle itself + some large cutter block...
Click to expand...
Thankyou :)
Yes I think the seller suggested it’s just the startup that would cause it
 
Hmmm a 1Kw motor will start happily from a domestic 13A plug. The motor may have been swapped, but I don’t believe you could fit a 3KW motor into that machine, they are a small machine. A 2.2KW motor usually runs happily from a 16A plug.
I suggest having it electrical checked if the motor is larger than the 1KW indicated.
 
imageel said:
A quick google peruse of single phase T30's show them with 16A plugs attached, and given that most machine plates show it as being 1KW rated then I deduce that it's only startup current that might be high given the inertia of the spindle itself + some large cutter block...
Click to expand...
So I’ve googled the hell outta these, can’t see anywhere that is says 1kw ? Phase 1 , yes.
Can’t find much atall online about the spec. Nothing to download I’ve found
 
Ah you are correct I mistook the phase # for the kw rating when in fact that is blank -apologies!
I don't know what else to suggest, I guess you'll find out when you pick it up..
 
Last edited:
deema said:
You can buy a copy of the manual for £10

https://robland.com/en/product/download-manual-t30/
Click to expand...
Thanks, I just did, about £8 in English money.
Most of the thing is in French lol.
Tells me Diddly squat really.
I’m now thinking this T30 was a bit of a sham machine, that they created from the universal saw,spindle,planer. A spin off if you like.
The manual is really unclear as to which parts refer to the ‘uni’ and which refer to the standalone machine.
Have I just bought a dud ? Does anyone know anyone with one ?
 
on my felder i had to change the fuse to a slow start type i think a type c to avoid blowing the fuse on a 20a breaker as the 20a would blow
 
Found this via ALT SAWS site.
States it runs at a fixed 6000rpm it seems, and is 3hp on single phase.
 

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It should have a 2.2KW or 3HP motor in it, so it will need a 16A class C MCB to power it up. It could be the original owner didn’t understand you need a class C MCB for motors and not a standard class B. Ignorance often results in people just increasing the current rating of the MCB and not realising that it’s there to stop the wires overheating / causing a fire which is what determines the rating of the MCB.

It looks a nice compact machine.
 
deema said:
It should have a 2.2KW or 3HP motor in it, so it will need a 16A class C MCB to power it up. It could be the original owner didn’t understand you need a class C MCB for motors and not a standard class B. Ignorance often results in people just increasing the current rating of the MCB and not realising that it’s there to stop the wires overheating / causing a fire which is what determines the rating of the MCB.

It looks a nice compact machine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. So a fixed speed not so much of a problem for a diy owner?
I have a proper 16a install with commando sockets, so abw it’ll be good to go.
 
Sundaydriver said:
Thanks. So a fixed speed not so much of a problem for a diy owner?
I have a proper 16a install with commando sockets, so abw it’ll be good to go.
Click to expand...
I don’t think so, my Sedgwick SM4i is also belt speed driven. Yoi will have three possible four speeds to accommodate different diameters of block. It will be fine.
 
I've got a Robland T30 exactly as in the brochure photo . It's on a 16amp plug which is just a fused spur off the 32a ring, possibly not the best setup but it works fine. I've found it to be a good little machine. Mine came from a college that was upgrading to braked machines about 15 years ago, I paid £80 so a lot cheaper than these fancy router systems.
 
You will need the class C MCB for sure but that protects the wiring, not the motor. Any motor more than 1/2 hp should have a thermal overload, which is like an even slower fuse. (You need to set it to the nominal motor current, or just above, which will be a bit less than 16A). In other words, also get a DOL starter (for your application they're not dear). hth
 
Jones said:
I've got a Robland T30 exactly as in the brochure photo . It's on a 16amp plug which is just a fused spur off the 32a ring, possibly not the best setup but it works fine. I've found it to be a good little machine. Mine came from a college that was upgrading to braked machines about 15 years ago, I paid £80 so a lot cheaper than these fancy router systems.
Click to expand...
Wow. £80 !
I’ve paid a lot more than that, but still less than I paid for my palm router.
So , I’m hearing this machine has no access to the pulleys, so you have to accept the one single spindle speed, agree ?
 
There's a double pulley on the motor shaft driving two short v belts onto the spindle shaft. There's no way of adjusting the speed it's effectively a direct drive. I knew some spindles tilted ( this doesn't ) but wasn't aware variable speed was an option on any of them. It has a soft start so takes a while to come up to speed then runs fine and takes 5-6 seconds to come to a halt .
 

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