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Slatted doors.

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thomashenry

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The task: make some sort of built in cupboard to fit into this niche in the bathroom where the boiler is.

space.JPG


The space will be divided veritcally into thee sections: under the boiler, the boiler, and over the boiler. I'm going to go right up to the ceiling. So, that's three doors, each around 60cm wide, with approx heights of 110cm,90cm and 40cm.

I've been trying to deicde for AGES what style of door to make. The bathroom is quite minimalist and modern. White walls, black hex tiles floor, with some wooden elements as an accent and to warm it up a bit. I've decided that doors like this would look good:

maxwardrobe.jpg


This is a wardrobe that Habitat are currently selling. Actually, I have another piece from the range.

The wardrobe's doors are sliding, but mine would have to be hinged. The weight of the door and the construction method used make me worried they would rack if side hung. Assuming the wardrobe's doors are made in the same way that the doors in my TV unit are made then they are:

Side rails 35mm wide x20mm deep. Slats 25mm tall, 18mm deep, 10mm spacing. Top and bottom slat are deeper, 25mmx25mm. Each slay has a rebate cut, leaving it standing 5mm proud of the rails. Each slat is joined to the rail with glue in the rebate and a dowel. Pretty heavy.

IMG_5631.JPG


I don't think I need my doors to be this heavy.
A variation on this would be to make a regular frame and panel door from 18mm stock, but rather than a solid panel, put 6mm slats in. However, this changes the look somewhat. If I did this, I would want the frame made out of the narrowest stock I could use whilst maintaining the rigidity of the door. Alternatively, I could make up the frame without any grooves for a panel, and glue 6mm deep slats over the top of it. Or perhaps 12mm slats, rebated so they stand 6mm proud from the frame.

Thoughts??
 

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Hornbeam

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Have you thought of using woven slats like the attached link
https://brian-ellison.squarespace.com/new-gallery-76/
I did a linen basket some years ago. I used wooden slats 4mm thick by 30mm wide. I also used 4mm stainless rods for for the ones running at 90 degrees.
Use a standard Mortice and tennon frame with a 4mm groove in either rails or stiles for the slats and then depending on the cross slats either spaced mortices or drilled holes

Ian
 

Eric The Viking

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Just an idea: you could avoid the racking issue by using some thin stainless wire on a diagonal. It wouldn't be seen behind the slats (and if it is you can paint it black). You can get it from a chandlers, who will probably also be able to splice an eye to each end (using the Telurit system), which makes it easy to fix and safe (no nasty loose wire strands). A cord would do just as well, but stainless won't stretch.
 

MikeG.

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thomashenry":3fe6b4vf said:
.......Thoughts??
That all looks like it could rack (parallelogram) very easily. How about a tensioned ss wire cable inside the doors from the outside bottom corner to the hinge-side top corner, and a nice turnbuckle to keep it taut?
 

Inspector

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I would glue each slat to the verticals. It is after all a few dozen joints in each door. That's a lot of glue holding. If you are unsure cut a dozen slats from scrap or construction lumber and glue them up. It doesn't need to be pretty nor full sized. Now you have a mockup to test to destruction if you like. Adjust from there.
 

thomashenry

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Hornbeam":31q4s5oc said:
Have you thought of using woven slats like the attached link
https://brian-ellison.squarespace.com/new-gallery-76/
I did a linen basket some years ago. I used wooden slats 4mm thick by 30mm wide. I also used 4mm stainless rods for for the ones running at 90 degrees.
Use a standard Mortice and tennon frame with a 4mm groove in either rails or stiles for the slats and then depending on the cross slats either spaced mortices or drilled holes

Ian
Those are nice, but not the look I'm after for these doors. :)
 

thomashenry

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MikeG.":e2s9u5fc said:
thomashenry":e2s9u5fc said:
.......Thoughts??
That all looks like it could rack (parallelogram) very easily. How about a tensioned ss wire cable inside the doors from the outside bottom corner to the hinge-side top corner, and a nice turnbuckle to keep it taut?
2nd suggestion of using a wire to keep it square. Will give it some thought :)
 

thomashenry

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loftyhermes":3kk479zo said:
Why not make the doors out of solid wood and rout the slots?
That wouldn't change the potential of the door to rack. Its not joint movement I'm concerned about, it's flex in the slats.
 

thomashenry

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Eric The Viking":3ag9q2nj said:
Just an idea: you could avoid the racking issue by using some thin stainless wire on a diagonal. It wouldn't be seen behind the slats (and if it is you can paint it black). You can get it from a chandlers, who will probably also be able to splice an eye to each end (using the Telurit system), which makes it easy to fix and safe (no nasty loose wire strands). A cord would do just as well, but stainless won't stretch.
Thanks for the suggestion. Something to think about.
 
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