Sip 10" Table Saw Questions

[Scrums]

I know there's a few on here who have one, so a couple of q's before mine's delivered.....

a) What's on the end of the power cable - I gather it's a 16a start up - bet it's not a conventional blue plug.

b) Does anyone use the supplied guard extraction ? as far as I can see, that exhausts directly into the 4" port at the back and lies directly in line with where you're cutting..... :roll:

....any other tips on getting it up and running in superfast time also appreciated.....

Chris.

 

[Dodge]

You will need a blue euro plug to go on the end of the lead - I know people who are running them on standard 13a supply and 3 pin plug but wouldnt recommend it.

Regarding the extraction off the crown guard, its ok if connected to a dedicated extractor but dont bother connecting to the adapter in the 4" pipe at the back as you wont get any suction worth having.

Throw away the blade that comes with it and put a decent one on

And lastly, get someone to help you to assemble it, when it arrived in the crate the saw is actually upside down, build up the cabinet effectively up side down then get some help to turn it over - dont do it on your own they are damn heavy!

Other than that enjoy your new purchase.

Rog

 

[Chems]

Mine came with a 3 pin plug. To being with I had it connected to the mains via an extension, which caused it to trip fairly regular. But once I wired in its own plug on the ring main it hasn't blown any fuses.

I use the top guard extraction connected to my shop vac and blanked off the one on the 4inch port on the back.

 

[Scrums]

Well, it's here and up and running....

Overall very impressed with the quality for the price + the build quality is excellent, not sure I've ever seen Aluminium extrusions quite so thick.

You're right about getting the thing from upside down to right way up - definitely a two-man job. The extension tables I managed on my own, with the help of a telescopic feed roller.

One mod I'll be making as soon as I get time: the metal enclosure top left as viewed from the front will be coming off and get pop-riveted hinged onto the cabinet with some form of closure - I'm used to having access into the cabinet for clearing sawdust from the workings and thin slices from the extract chute - 6 screws every time is too much hassle.
Oh and the fine adjuster on the fence - a bit of a waste of time? - mine doesn't mesh with the rack properly.

One final question: In what circumstances might I want to run the fence to the left hand side of the blade ?
I've never been able to before and the main reason in asking is that those bits of Ali' sticking out are going to be constantly in the way and need snipping off !

Final thought, occasionally do some crosscutting on boards over 300mm which don't fit the Makita pullover - so a crosscut sled is called for - a big saving on a sliding carriage.

Chris.

 

[Dodge]

I agree with the access panel being screwed on - On the 12" model that I have now it is duly hinged for access.

You may find that after a few days or weeks depending upon how much use it has that you will need to tension the drive belt a little more - If the belt starts slipping and the saw blade appears to be slowing down.

Have fun

Rog

 

[squib]

You may need the fence on the other side of the blade to do certain angled cuts or ripped mitres.

 

[Chems]

Dont know why you'd want to cut to the left of the blade except for certain tilting operations. But its usually a case of flipping the board over rather than moving the fence.

The fine adjust will work, you have to sort of push it in to engage. However it only moves on end of the fence as its likely the other end won't be square. I prefer the nudge tap tap method.

 

[mailee]

Chris, you will find that the fine adjuster is actually adjustable. By loosening the two screws you can get a little back and forth movement and there is also a grub screw on the housing which you can loosen and then rotate the bearing which is eccentric and this will enable you to get a tighter or slacker mesh with the rack. HTH. :wink:

 

[Digit]

Most regular readers will know that I have that model and I think that all points have been covered here.
I have found that the saw lends itself very well to various home made extras, such as cross cutting sled, mitre sled etc, also mine has my router built in under the LH extension. A good solid table and no shop space lost.

Roy.