Overriding Wickes router on/off switch

[Davidadew]

I have a table to mount my Wickes router on, but am not sure how to override the on/off switch on it - it has two switches on right hand, both of which need to be pressed to make machine work, and there is no obvious way of overriding this to put it on a router table.

I don't want to break into the machine to override it ideally, anyone done this on a Wickes or similar router before safely?

 

[NickWelford]

I have a cheap but fairly powerful continental router in my table, which needed the trigger depressed whilst using - initially I used a cable tie plus packing to hold it down, as the table has a nvr on/off switch. It was never really successful, so eventually I disassembled the switchgear and wired it directly. I was never going to use it as a hand held router, so worked for me.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I have a table to mount my Wickes router on, but am not sure how to override the on/off switch on it - it has two switches on right hand, both of which need to be pressed to make machine work, and there is no obvious way of overriding this to put it on a router table.

I don't want to break into the machine to override it ideally, anyone done this on a Wickes or similar router before safely?

My B+Q one had a pivoting mechanical safety lock and a trigger switch, like this:

I first of all dismantled the handle it was fitted in (two bolts into the metal casting of the router), and found removing the interlock bit was easy. The trigger was a bit of a nuisance though (being polite). Cable ties kept slipping off, and sticky tape didn't pull it in enough, etc. Several times it stopped on me mid-cut. Then the penny dropped: when used handheld, you squeeze the trigger and it pivots. The outer end moves upwards in the handle (downwards when it's in in the router table). Internally it does this:

I realised that if I made a hole through the handle (with a soldering iron - I was in a hurry!), I could wedge an old 1/4inch plug in, to jam the trigger into the 'on' position:

For handheld use, you just pull the plug out and it reverts to normal trigger action. It's a through hole in the handle (which is hollow, obviously), so the waisted bit at the pointy end of the plug catches on the far side, and it doesn't fall out when the router is running. It's worked really well - no sticky tape, cable ties or Velcro required!

I hope yours is similar enough for this to be possible, or at least to spark some ideas. I thought diagrams might make more sense than photos - now I'm not so sure!

Cheers,

S.

 

[Davidadew]

Many thanks to both of you for taking the time to respond; the diagrams were great thanks Eric, really appreciated.

I'll take a look in the workshop and see what I can do!

 

[Woodchips2]

I use a spring clamp like this http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/sp-2 ... ryID1=2883 on the switch when mounting my power saw in the table.

 

[George_N]

I used to use a zip tie to hold down the trigger of my Trend Tech (B&Q) router and it worked well for several years until the variable speed control failed. I don't want to hijack the thread but since we are talking about re-wiring switches, is it possible/safe to by-pass the variable speed circuit. I realise the router would only run at full speed and thus only be suitable for use with small/medium diameter cutters but I have now bought a T11 to replace it anyway. I just hate to bin it if there is still some potential life in it and the other 1/2" router I have, a McAlister, is truely horrible (only cost me £15 so ok for an emergency replacement).

 

[Dibs-h]

http://www.toolbox.co.uk/silverline-vel ... =211050385

Velcro cable ties - absolutely spot on! In fact my el-cheap B&Poo router & table came with one.

 

[flanajb]

The other option you have is to buy a secondary switch mounted on the table

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0

You can then zip tie the trigger in the on position on the router.

The secondary switch will have much easier access than having to reach under the table each time