long drill bit

[marcros]

I need to drill a pilot hole for some no 12 brass screws. I have made a bit of a design error, and access is a bit tighter than ideal.

It is for buttons for attaching a table top- but there are drawers in the end, so i need to squeeze between the rails- 4" deep, and the side of the drawer support, which will be about the same distance from the top. There may be a couple of inches gap to get into. I can get 4 buttons on easily, but would like one each side at each end, so that it is nice and rigid, and in case it is picked up by the top - it is a heavy dining table.

I believe that the pilot hole for a no 12 is 3mm (well 3.1mm or 5/32). Is it possible to get a very long drill bit, an extension chuck, or is there a better way of doing it? I think it will be a bit tight to get the cordless in to. I can drill the buttons first, so it is only the last 1/2" into the top that is the issue.

would using a nail be a bit too Heath Robinson?!

 

[mseries]

Can you not drill the holes before the top is fitted ? I guess you thought about that already and ruled it out. Perhaps a right angle drill attachment will work ?

 

[AndyT]

Yes, just mark the hole positions with the top in place, using a nail, or an awl, remove the top, drill the holes to depth, replace, fit.

 

[marcros]

Can you not drill the holes before the top is fitted ? I guess you thought about that already and ruled it out. Perhaps a right angle drill attachment will work ?

sometimes the simplest options are overlooked.

 

[trsleigh]

To answer the original question, is 10" long enough?
http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... 9_657.html
HTH

 

[marcros]

yes, it would be thanks. but I will try doing it off the frae first.

Now to find a long screwdriver, although that will be far simpler!

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I think I'd go along with the 'mark out in place, then remove top and drill' method in this case, but if anybody is really backed into a corner and needs a long drill, the model engineers used to have a trick of fixing a nornal jobber-length drill into the end of a piece of thick-walled tube or a hole drilled in the end of a piece of round barstock. You'll need a decent engineering adhesive (or silver solder), though for smallish drills intended for use in wood a dab of shed-on-bypass Superglue should do. It means sacrificing a drillbit, but the small ones are cheap enough, so it's not too hard on the wallet.

For long screwdriver, a socket set with a screwdriver bit might serve, if a normal screwdriver isn't long enough. It might ease the job to screw the screws into the top, then take them out again, before putting the top in place; thus effectively 'tapping' a thread for the screw to follow on final assembly.

 

[marcros]

I think I'd go along with the 'mark out in place, then remove top and drill' method in this case, but if anybody is really backed into a corner and needs a long drill, the model engineers used to have a trick of fixing a nornal jobber-length drill into the end of a piece of thick-walled tube or a hole drilled in the end of a piece of round barstock. You'll need a decent engineering adhesive (or silver solder), though for smallish drills intended for use in wood a dab of shed-on-bypass Superglue should do. It means sacrificing a drillbit, but the small ones are cheap enough, so it's not too hard on the wallet.

For long screwdriver, a socket set with a screwdriver bit might serve, if a normal screwdriver isn't long enough. It might ease the job to screw the screws into the top, then take them out again, before putting the top in place; thus effectively 'tapping' a thread for the screw to follow on final assembly.

I was going to try and locate a couple of steel screws for tapping purposes. The long screwdriver shouldnt be too bad to find- it isnt really long at all in screwdriver terms. I fancy compiling a set of the "perfect" ones and rehandling them.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yankee screwdrivers with cup drills, a selection of screwdriver bits and a snail countersink (old fashioned as it seems), can be mighty useful occasionally.

 

[AES]

The other Model Engineer's trick is that not only Wealden sell long drills - they are freely available in any decent (mechanical) engineering tool store, in virtually all sizes and by virtually all manufacturers ranging from the "goodies" (like Dormer) to the cheap and nasty. They're called "Long Series Drills" and above about 4 mm dia are available in both "normal" (i.e. 2 edge) and 4 edge grind patterns (below about 4 mm, 2 edge only). Maybe even able to find them in one or two DIY Emporia

If you need to buy on line I can personally recommend Arc Euro Trade (usual disclaimers), to name but one supplier:

//www.arceurotrade.co.uk/default.aspx

Arc also has both decent quality (i.e. not cheap) and cheapos.

BTW, I have never seen brad point (i.e. wood workers) drills in Long Series. I have no idea if they're made or not.

HTH

Krgds
AES

 

[Setch]

http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?p=49

I've brazed a 3mm twist drill into a bit of 4mm mild steel for drilling into a guitar cavity. I then made an adhoc long screwdriver by putting aload of bit holders together. Not slick, but it worked very well.

 

[Andrewf]

A spoke from a bicycle wheel hammer the end flat and then file a spear point , adjusting the width to suit. Springy so won't snap if you get carried away .