Kiln-dried timber problems

[Paul Chapman]

I'd welcome some advice and opinions, please, about kiln-dried timber problems.

I posted elsewhere about some problems I have with some oak I'm using for my competition entry. It has developed some small cracks and splits and my guess is that it was kiln-dried, but not very well done. I realise that questions about problem timber are a bit like asking "How long is a piece of string", but I'd nevertheless welcome your views.

Are the splits and cracks likely to get worse?

Is it better to possibly cut the wood into smaller sections, avoiding the splits and cracks, or are more likely to develop where there are none at present?

If they are unlikely to get worse, is it possible to use the timber as, say, the inner cores of laminated pieces where it might be possible to conceal the defects?

Or am I just hoping against hope and ought to confine it to the fire-wood pile

All comments gratefully received :wink:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[newt]

Paul, I may have mentioned it but I have had the same problem with KD Oak. I bought a 2 meter long 50 mm thick, 150mm wide board from Yandels. I was making side tables I think you have seen one, the board was for the legs which were going to be finished at 40mm. After ripping I found it full of cracks so bad that the whole board was useless, £50 down the drain, actually up in smoke. I then made all four of my tables by laminating from 25mm boards, these were all ok. I think if you use the wood and the cracks/splits are visible you will never be happy with the work. I know Oak is open grained but the splits, certainly on mine ran at an angle to the grain and would have looked awful. I cannot say if they will get worse, I did not wait to find out so cannot be of help on that one. My advice for what its worth, is to scrap it, sorry mate.

 

[DomValente]

Hello Paul.

The cracks will not close up, they are most likely a result of the timber being dried too quickly.
I would not use them except for hidden carcassing or even the backs.
They may get worse

Dom

 

[Paul Chapman]

Many thanks for your advice, guys :wink:

Just received a PM from a very nice bloke on here that might have saved the day So I'm feeling a lot better about my predicament.

Whenever possible I try to use reclaimed timber when I'm making things and that way you don't get these sort of problems. There are others, of course, like getting timber in big enough sizes; laminating pieces to make it big enough; getting the old finish off; finding hidden nails that can wreck your blades - but at least you know it's been dried properly.

I have a complete staircase of mahogany-type wood stacked away in various parts of my garage and loft from when I put in a new one. I'm sure I'll find a project for it one day :wink: Just a pity it wasn't oak - but then if it had have been I probably wouldn't have changed it...

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[timbar]

There is a problem with seasoning called "case hardening" which is when timber is dried too quickly. If I remember the test for this is to cut say 1/2" off the end off a board and then (on its end grain surface) cut out a piece so that you end up with a tuning fork shaped, short grained piece of timber. If it closes, you have case hardening. One way around any problems due to timber moisture content is to carry out what is known as a "second seasoning" this means to leave the wood, in its sawn state, where it will actually eventually end up. So for a dinning table you stack the timber in the dining room etc! Once it has adjusted itself to the same moisture content of its surroundings you then machine it to dimensions. In theory at least, movement should then be minimal.