D8 heel Backsaw.

[swagman]

As far as I know its hasn't been done on a backsaw, so it will be an opportunity to test my skills.

I am using Australian Jarrah with some very nice feature through it for the handle. Its not the easiest of timbers to shape with, but its still doable.

The saw plate will be of 0.020 gauge; 20 inches x 3 inches below the spine.

For those not familiar with the shape of a D8 heel; here is one I recently refurbished.



The handle is still in its early stages of shaping, with the saw plate slot completed.

Stewie;

 

[RogerP]

I'm confused (normal). If a D8 looks like the first photo how is the blank in the second photo the same? Looks entirely different to me and will be similar to the handle on my old 14" S&J brass-back tenon saw.

 

[pedder]

the blade is inserted in the handle.

 

[swagman]

I'm confused (normal). If a D8 looks like the first photo how is the blank in the second photo the same? Looks entirely different to me and will be similar to the handle on my old 14" S&J brass-back tenon saw.

Hi Roger. If you look at the last photo, and compared to your S & J, you can see the slot for the saw plate heel on this handle extends much further down the bottom rail.

regards Stewie;

 

[swagman]

The primary heel cut of the saw plate is indicated by the pencil line that runs vertically down the cheek. (2nd photo)

 

[Sheffield Tony]

the blade is inserted in the handle.

Will this strengthen, or weaken, the relatively fragile short-grain lower part of the handle ? It is an appealing look (to me, at least). Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

 

[RogerP]

I'm confused (normal). If a D8 looks like the first photo how is the blank in the second photo the same? Looks entirely different to me and will be similar to the handle on my old 14" S&J brass-back tenon saw.

Hi Roger. If you look at the last photo, and compared to your S & J, you can see the slot for the saw plate heel on this handle extends much further down the bottom rail.

regards Stewie;

Is this old Tyzack similar?

 

[pedder]

More like the Harvey Peace #47
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/hwpeac ... acksaw.php

 

[RogerP]

Good grief - that is taken to the limit!

 

[swagman]

the blade is inserted in the handle.

Will this strengthen, or weaken, the relatively fragile short-grain lower part of the handle ? It is an appealing look (to me, at least). Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

Hi Tony. Pedder did some excellent research and discovered something similar has been done before as seen on the Harvey Peace P - 47 Backsaw. A reinforcement plate was included within that design, and that is something I may need to consider nearer to completion.

From a practical purpose the heel of the saw plate see's little use on handsaws. But visually, it does create a closer union between the saw plate and the handle.

A worthwhile project.

regards Stewie;

 

[swagman]

Good grief - that is taken to the limit!

I agree Roger. I am taking a more conservative approach within my design to the size of the cheek and bottom rail.

Stewie;

 

[swagman]

http://positiverake.com/wp-content/uplo ... ox_061.jpg

 

[pedder]

Pedder did some excellent research and discovered something similar has been done before as seen on the Harvey Peace P - 47 Backsaw

Hi Stewie,

thanks for the kudos, but nothing I'd call research happened. I just remembered that I've seen such a saw once.
Hyperkitten ist the same for Harvey Peace as the Disstonian Institute is for hmmm Disston.

I look forwar to see your design.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[swagman]

To cut the saw plate slot on my backsaw handles I use a slitting blade mounted to a router table.

The tool holder I use for the slitting blades has an O.D. of 30mm. For this handle I chose a slitting blade with a 40mm O.D x 0.020 gauge. This gave me an effective cutting depth of 5mm. Ideal for the bottom rail of the handle. Other areas of the handle that needed further deepening of the slot, such as through the cheek of the handle, a backsaw with a matching 0.020 saw plate gauge was used. (no set on the saw teeth).

Thin gauge slitting blades are not designed to be run at high speed. If you wish to trial my method I would advice you to proceed with caution. Only use a variable speed router that's mounted securely on a router table, with the router speed set at its slowest rpm.

Stewie;

 

[RogerP]

I found that the kerf of the blade on my largest bandsaw gives exactly the correct width of slot for tenon/carcass saw handles.

It's very easy to position the newly made handle in an existing sliding jig to get a perfect slot for the blade. It takes only a few seconds start to finish.

 

[swagman]

I found that the kerf of the blade on my largest bandsaw gives exactly the correct width of slot for tenon/carcass saw handles.

It's very easy to position the newly made handle in an existing sliding jig to get a perfect slot for the blade. It takes only a few seconds start to finish.

Hi Roger. There are a number of ways to make the blade slot in the handsaw handle. Using a bandsaw is not a common approach, but if it can be done safely without the chance of kickback and loosing a finger, why not. Most of the saw makers I communicate with start the blade slot using a slitting blade, and not all mounted on a router table, then later deepen that slot with a matching thickness backsaw. For others that are not into making handsaws on a regular basis, cutting the slot by hand makes perfect sense.

 

[swagman]

A slight change to the final sizing of the saw plate. The new dimensions are 18" L x 2 1/2 D (below the spine).



Shaping the contoured heel on the saw plate was fairly straight forward using a Dremel with a grinding stone attachment.



A close up of the heel fit with the handle in position.



Next step will be installing the 3 x saw bolt assemblies.

Stewie;

 

[RogerP]

Up to now I have only made and fitted new handles to saws because the original was beyond salvation.

With very old saws I have copied the original as closely as possible, both in design and type of wood used, but with less historic ones I've often let my imagination take over a bit and made something more fancy.

However, I'd now like to make a saw from scratch. I have flat brass strip which I could easily run a slot down but have no idea where to get the saw plate from. Any pointers please?

 

[swagman]

Hi Roger. The following supplier may be able to meet your needs. You should be looking at 1095 grade saw plate. Gauge is up to you. 0.015; 0.020; 0.025.

Pedder or Skelton may be able to offer you better advise with a supplier within the U.K or the Eurozone.

http://www.swedex.co.uk/products-catalo ... ail-prices

Stewie;

 

[RogerP]

Thanks very much.