cutting thin stainless steel

[Unib]

I'm sure the answer to this question is "don't be ridiculous, of course you can't" but... I saw on youtube someone cutting stainless steel with a Festool circular saw (obviously this was in America where they do such things) it said it was possible up to 1/16". This got me thinking...is it possible to trim 0.5mm stainless steel sheet with a router cutter? Or would this just result in sparks and flying routers? :shock:

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Thin stainless steel sheet is awful to work with - it will quickly blunt shears drills etc. as it easily work hardens. Adding kerosene helps to lubricate and cool it, (staving off work hardening), but a router bit would spread it around nicely, (along with razor sharp shards of steel). The best thing I've found to use for cutting SS is a thin cutting disc in a die grinder. Finishing can be done with flap wheels sanding drums etc.

Personally I'd steer clear of attacking it with a router.

Regards Mick

 

[Togalosh]

I'm sure the answer to this question is "don't be ridiculous, of course you can't"

I'd agree with that..but I'm often wrong. If you do go for it anyway wear lots of PPE & keep loved ones & pets well clear too.

A good quality, very thin, stainless steel cutting disk does a very good job surprisingly easily_ you could use a guide jig if you are not sure of a straight line done freehand or if you need a very precise line. Cut in the opposite direction of the motor so you can see the line better.

Togs

 

[Unib]

Thanks for the advice folks - I suspected it was a bad idea - I think I'll get a quote to get it laser cut!

 

[Peter T]

Thanks for the advice folks - I suspected it was a bad idea - I think I'll get a quote to get it laser cut!

Laser cutting would be good. Be aware that most laser jobshops have a minimum order of £80 to £100.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Unib

I have cut 1.8mm SS sheet with my band saw, it worked very well.

Pete

 

[Unib]

Hi Pete,

interesting, what sort of blade did you use?

Hi, Unib

I have cut 1.8mm SS sheet with my band saw, it worked very well.

Pete

 

[Racers]

Hi, Unib

I got 20 or so blades when I bought my Startrite 352 and some where marked "Metal" I used one of thoes!
The word metal was marked on the packet, I guess ir was 16tpi or so and it worked with some presure on the work piece.
I have also used it for cutting big aliminium heatsinks .

Pete

 

[sdjp]

Is it possible to trim 0.5mm stainless steel sheet with a router cutter? Or would this just result in sparks and flying routers? :shock:

It would probably result worse than that!

A woodworking router spins far, far too fast for cutting steel. To give an idea of how much, a router spins at 25 000 RPM, or so, to produce type 3 chipping. To mill steel, you want around 750 rpm, for type 1 chipping.

Trying to use a router on steel, if you're lucky, will result in a cutter that's worn out in seconds. If you are unlucky, then which ever of the router or the workpiece is less well tied down will get flung across the workshop. A hand held router would probably result in wrenched or broken fingers; on a router table you'd have the steel sheet get mobile.

I'm sure there's shades in between those, but I really can't see any outcome that's not terrible!

Stuart

 

[Unib]

Thanks for that info Stuart, if I hadn't been dissuaded from trying it I certainly am now! The answer is definitely to have it laser cut, anything else just seems far too hit and miss.

 

[Baldhead]

Have you got a jigsaw? I have cut cooker extractor hoods using Bosch T121GF blades.

BH

 

[Unib]

Thanks for the info Pete, I was just looking at Tuff Saw and they have an M42 metal cutting blade that would probably be the same sort of thing.

Hi, Unib

I got 20 or so blades when I bought my Startrite 352 and some where marked "Metal" I used one of thoes!
The word metal was marked on the packet, I guess ir was 16tpi or so and it worked with some presure on the work piece.
I have also used it for cutting big aliminium heatsinks .

Pete

 

[Unib]

Thanks for the recommendation BH, I have got a jigsaw, I s'pose this is the same sort of idea as using the bandsaw.

Have you got a jigsaw? I have cut cooker extractor hoods using Bosch T121GF blades.

BH

 

[Spindle]

Hi

The major difference between a jig saw and a band saw is that the jig saw cuts on the up stroke and the band saw on the down. I think the jig saw will bend the edges of the metal upwards as no matter how fine a pitch blade you use there will only ever be one tooth engaged in the metal, (unless of course you can get a 52 TPI or greater blade).
Ditto regarding the blade would apply if using a band saw however you could support the metal on a 6mm sheet of MDF and cut both at once.

Regards Mick

 

[cedarwood]

Why not hire a plasma cutter from one of any number of hire companies, it will cut stainless beautifully with no jagged edges just use a straight edge to guide the cutter. I have cut 3" dia holes freehand very easily in 1/8 high temp stainless sheet, well that's my twopennarth :lol:

 

[Eric The Viking]

With due respect to Pete (and it is due!), you'll have a huge clean-up job to do on the bandsaw afterwards.

The steel chips won't behave nicely for the extraction to work, and you risk them getting embedded in the tyres and the belt, and in future wooden workpieces. It doesn't sound like my idea of fun.

If you use a jigsaw, you can minimise the edge roughness by clamping the sheet between pieces of ply, and cut through all three at once.

E.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Eric

I didn't have to do much clean up on the SS or the band saw afterwards A quick file and vacuum out of the band saw, I didn't have the extraction running obviously.

Pete

 

[Eric The Viking]

Fair enough Pete, but I suspect it matters a lot which bandsaw you have.

Mine is small and messy (SIP 12" heavy duty), even with the mod that Ollie made to it originally. I know the chips would get everywhere if I tried it.

E.

 

[sbk]

you can get cheapy plasma cutters off ebay for as little as 50 quid now.