Adze

[marcros]

I want to get myself an adze, to have a play with before using it on a project. I want, in time, to use it on table tops and such like, so I believe that I need a straight (rather than curved) head, and a long handle. correct?

Should they have a straight handle, or a shaped one? I have seen both on eby, which seems to be the main place for a used one.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

That's an interesting one - adze questions don't crop up much!

My understanding is based on reading and similar 'research', not on practical hands-on experience, and this comment should be read with that firmly in mind!

The idea of the 'curved' handle (helve?) as I understand it, is to bring the user's top hand into about the same plane as the cutting edge, and the curve of the blade brings the cutting edge and the blade back immediately behind the edge parallel with the workpiece, a bit like a giant paring chisel. The reason for this is because the tool is often used with the top hand braced against some part of the user's body (thigh, usually), to give close control of where the cutting edge lands - much closer than you can by swinging it double-handed like an axe - to effectively pare off waste fast.

I suspect the tool balances a bit better in the hands with a curved helve, too. The old shipwrights used to use the adze in all sorts of odd positions (including overhead) and the closeness of control depended on the bracing given by one hand against some other suitably available body part. In that way, they could use the sole of their boot as a 'stop-cut' when trimming down deck planking, and leave an almost planed surface.

It's always looked a bit of an uncomfortable tool to use long-term - you have to bend your back over the job, it seems. I may be wrong, but finding the right handle length might alleviate problems arising from that.

 

[bugbear]

I saw a Robert Thompson table in an upmarket shop, with an (over)worked top, to my eye.

The candle stick the shop had placed just could not sit securely on the damn thing. I don't suppose
a plate or saucer would fare any better.

If you want texture, I'd suggest a mildly cambered but extremely sharp plane iron.

Edit; found an image:

I've seen numerous adzed beams in fine buildings, and they're beautiful. I hate the "look at me"
adze marks on that table.

BugBear

 

[Bedrock]

I am glad you raised this question as i have just bought an adze head from the Yapton place for £17, which I thought was very reasonable price, given that they seem to sell new, without the handle for about £50.
The hole for the handle is rectangular and tapered, and I have been giving some thought to the shape of the handle, as it has to pass through this hole.
The WIP is a three legged stool with the seat from a very nice piece of elm. I have previously hollowed seats for chairs with powered tools and sanders, but the traditional method appeals for noise and dust reasons.
Straight would be simplest, but never one not to overcomplicate, the curved handle appeals. I can see a long day with drawknife and spokeshave, but if straight is better, so be it.
Any advice on user method, as I am happy with the 10 toes I have at the moment?

 

[bugbear]

I am glad you raised this question as i have just bought an adze head from the Yapton place for £17, which I thought was very reasonable price, given that they seem to sell new, without the handle for about £50.
The hole for the handle is rectangular and tapered, and I have been giving some thought to the shape of the handle, as it has to pass through this hole.
The WIP is a three legged stool with the seat from a very nice piece of elm. I have previously hollowed seats for chairs with powered tools and sanders, but the traditional method appeals for noise and dust reasons.
Straight would be simplest, but never one not to overcomplicate, the curved handle appeals. I can see a long day with drawknife and spokeshave, but if straight is better, so be it.
Any advice on user method, as I am happy with the 10 toes I have at the moment?

There seem to be some original handles in this thread, ripe for "inspiration".

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... -adzes-etc

Edit; this eBay item has a very clear handle-photo:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/ANTIQUE-VINTAGE- ... 1355030074?

BugBear

 

[marcros]

I saw a Robert Thompson table in an upmarket shop, with an (over)worked top, to my eye.

The candle stick the shop had placed just could not sit securely on the damn thing. I don't suppose
a plate or saucer would fare any better.

If you want texture, I'd suggest a mildly cambered but extremely sharp plane iron.

Edit; found an image:

I've seen numerous adzed beams in fine buildings, and they're beautiful. I hate the "look at me"
adze marks on that table.

BugBear

I quite like it...

I agree though that perhaps table tops are not the ideal surface for a heavily textured surface. I will try the semi scrub plane suggestion too.

 

[Richard T]

Interesting - they all have that bow in the middle as does the only made -for handle I've ever bought (albeit for a smaller head)



Not a good angle but you can see the bow.

 

[marcros]

was it an actual adze handle, Richard, or a generic one?

I was going to buy a handled one, just so that the length was correct as it appears to be quite important.

I do fancy the Japanese type, but they are way too spendy for me to just have a go with and use once in a while.

 

[bugbear]

Here's a planed table (I'd prefer planed at an angle myself)

BugBear

 

[Richard T]

Yes Mark, I bought it from a chap at a car boot. It was his late Dad's who apparently looked for years for a handle after getting the head and finally found this one which he packed to fit.
So it is an adze handle, just for a smaller head/hole.

 

[AndyT]

I recently bought a battered old adze in a mixed box at a David Stanley auction.

I took it along to the TATHS stand at the Westonbirt Treefest event and Bob Burgess very kindly and expertly made me one, from a bit of scavenged ash, in about twenty minutes.

I can't promise this facility for everyone - but I can recommend the event! =D>

As for tips on technique, Cheshire Chappie has described it - one hand slaps against your thigh, limiting the travel of the cutting edge, which is normally used across grain.
That said, stout boots are a better choice than flip flops!

 

[t8hants]

Oh dear, my local hardware shop used to stock adze handles along with sledgehammer shafts and pickaxe handles, they were just in a galve dustbin. I haven't bothered to look for years, just assumed they were still there. Now I need a handle for my adze, as I found the thing the other day.

 

[Andrewf]

If you get a handle and it doesn't feel right you can adjust the angle of the handle, by adding and removing wood to different sides of the square on the handle that fits into the blade. . Mine has been adjusted like this, would post some pictures but away from home for a few more weeks.
One thing I have always wondered is what the different number on the blades mean. Mine is a number 3, but most of the adzes I have seen are the same size.

 

[marcros]

I saw something online about this- they go from 00 to 5 apparently. I think it is the curvature.

 

[marcros]

Here's a planed table (I'd prefer planed at an angle myself)

BugBear

i look at this earlier and again now. Cant quite work out if i like it or not. the angle would help i think.

 

[bugbear]

Here's a planed table (I'd prefer planed at an angle myself)

BugBear

i look at this earlier and again now. Cant quite work out if i like it or not. the angle would help i think.

The marks are a little too exagerated for my liking, but it's the best example I could find on line.

There are some beauties at the Weald and Downland museum.

BugBear

 

[Bedrock]

Thanks for the various pointers.
I was particularly interested to see that the shaft seems to be fitted at a right angle to the head.
Incidentally, the u/s is stamped with an incomplete maker's mark which looks like "Braden", although the last part is not clear. The other stamping is "382". Maker's factory no., or a size reference?
Any ideas?

 

[Bedrock]

PS From BB's photograph of the planed table, I prefer the first example of the adzed finish, although I agree that the utility of a dining table where the plates can't sit flat is lost on me. Style over substance.
Perhaps there is scope for another thread entitled "Yes But Why?". From time to time I see pieces of furniture or tools where someone has gone to enormous lengths, but for the life of me, I cannot see the benefit. Design is a very subjective area, but maybe people would like to put forward their favourite "YBW".
Any takers, but with the proviso that any comment on sharpening jigs or water stones is automatically banned?

 

[AndyT]

Thanks for the various pointers.
I was particularly interested to see that the shaft seems to be fitted at a right angle to the head.
Incidentally, the u/s is stamped with an incomplete maker's mark which looks like "Braden", although the last part is not clear. The other stamping is "382". Maker's factory no., or a size reference?
Any ideas?

That will be "BRADES" - a famous Birmingham maker of quality edge tools.

If you download a rather nice 1941 catalogue from Gary Roberts' site here: http://toolemera.com/Trade Catalogs/tradecatalogs194.html

you will find that pattern number listed on page 5 as a "Carpenter's Adze" available in three sizes - at a wholesale price of 30 to 34 shillings per dozen (2s 6d to 2s 10d each).

 

[Bedrock]

Thanks Andy. Clearly referenced as a carpenters adze.
Mike