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Got this old TV unit with chipped and abraded finish. Anyone know what finish it is? Going to use the unit as the base for a gun rack, and not sure whether to restore or strip and refinish.

What I can see is that mine is a 22" A1. I reckon it's a bargain regarding inflation to have what was a saw costing 8/8 for just under 2 quid.

Ah,brilliant find! So it is certainly a rosewood handle (admittedly, mine has long since lost the nickel plating on the nuts). Interestingly though, the plate has "7 POINTS" stamped into it, while those in the catalogue are 6 points. It's a shame that the image quality doesn't allow the...

I'll stick some up tomorrow. Hopefully I can get the light right to show the etching.

Hey guys and gals. Picked up a lot of 8 saws for 15 quid last week. Few nice S&Js and a Tyzack Sons & Turner Centenary Saw, 7 point. At first it looked to be too badly rusted (it looked in worse condition than any other I've found to date, not helped by thick white paint at points), but wouldn't...

I thought better of the fridge in the end, as I realised "once that warms up, it'll just expand again". Handle has been off for 4-5 days. It really looks like my only choice is to file the holes. The problem is, there are 5 holes and now only 1 can be replaced before others don't fit. Concerned...

They really won't. Short of being able to stretch the handle across the grain, even half if the nuts won't go back in. They just hit metal. If I stick the nut in the top hole, the bottom is half blocked by the blade. I've never quite seen shrinkage this extreme. Looks like I might have to file...

So... I took the handle off of a rusted CC saw, cleaned up the blade, oiled the handle and.... boom, can't get it back on. None of the holes align to get the nuts in properly. Kind of annoying, had no problems getting it off. Anyone have any solutions? Currently have the blade in the fridge...

Wow, thanks for the link, Andy. Appreciate it.

I think they were bespoke pieces. https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/2721

Phillip Edwards made some brass sole planes similar to this.

Anyway, just done one saw, turned out there was a name on that one as well: Richard Ibbotson. Thing is there's a lot of grey and black tarnishing on the steel, which is near impossible to get off.

I find white mineral oil good on stones. On finer grits I mix white spirit with it.

I hate Samsung so much :lol:

A while back I cleaned up an old tendon saw using almost exactly this method. Only thing was I started coarse and went up. Wasn't too pleased with the results. Thanks for this, I'll try it the other way.

Got this old saw and I want to spruce it up. But there's a Toga logo under the filth which I would like to retain, just because. What's the best solution to do this? Figured any sort of acid would end up removing the logo as well.

So, I'm making a wedding present and it involves inlaying brass letters into an English walnut panel. Im looking for tested recommendations for adhesives for this. Thanks in advance.

Is the hook shift still accurate? Test is with a rule to make sure the hook is still moving the correct distance for internal and external measurements. Although as someone said above, as long as you use the same measure for the work and it's consistent, there's little in it. In all honesty...

Exactly how are you going about sharpening? Hand sharpening and keeping a pretty consistent secondary bevel isn't quite as difficult as it seems. It might be down to the technique you use.

Seems I posted this a little prematurely. Guess what turned up underneath a pile of junk in the shed... I may still give the Waterstones a go, however.