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Replacing saw handle

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YoelD

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So... I took the handle off of a rusted CC saw, cleaned up the blade, oiled the handle and.... boom, can't get it back on. None of the holes align to get the nuts in properly. Kind of annoying, had no problems getting it off.

Anyone have any solutions? Currently have the blade in the fridge hoping it'll contract a little.
 

AndyT

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They must align somehow!
I'd try careful use of a long slender awl as a "drift", inserting it through the handle and blade assembled. If you can get the point through you should be able to waggle it into line.

If that doesn't work, or if you are left with one odd one out, a round needle file should be ok to extend the offending hole, using the handle as a guide. Old saw screws were fitted with surprisingly little clearance.
 

YoelD

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They really won't. Short of being able to stretch the handle across the grain, even half if the nuts won't go back in. They just hit metal.
If I stick the nut in the top hole, the bottom is half blocked by the blade. I've never quite seen shrinkage this extreme.
Looks like I might have to file out the holes and risk a little "wiggle".
 

ED65

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How long has the handle been off the plate? If the wood has shrunk you can expand it back out by rehydrating it but in the long run it may be safer to file/grind out the holes. Might be safest to do all the holes so every nut can have wiggle room.

YoelD":gzrhrl1y said:
Currently have the blade in the fridge hoping it'll contract a little.
Not so's you'd notice :D
 

YoelD

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I thought better of the fridge in the end, as I realised "once that warms up, it'll just expand again".
Handle has been off for 4-5 days.

It really looks like my only choice is to file the holes. The problem is, there are 5 holes and now only 1 can be replaced before others don't fit. Concerned this might cause the handle to move during use.
 

sunnybob

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That is such extreme movement we need pics to help you figure out what went wrong.

I am assuming you are not fully tightening the first bolt before trying to insert the next?

All bolts should be loosely inserted before any tightening takes place.
 

Nigel Burden

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Just a thought. If the blade was quite rusty, has removing it pulled some of the wood from the blade slot causing an obstruction ?

Nigel.
 

ED65

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YoelD":2uulrii7 said:
Concerned this might cause the handle to move during use.
You shouldn't have to worry about this, the grip is from the handle pinching down on to the plate and the friction that arises. It's not from the screws sort of shouldering against the sides of the holes if that's what you were thinking (this can happen over time and it's a bad thing, it can lead to the brass being sheared through).

This is how many old saws are still usable, the holes can be really wallowed out from rust and the handle can still be good and tight, as long as you haven't lost too much thickness in the plate.
 

mu

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A stupid question: is the number of hole in the blade the same of that in the handle? :lol:
 

ED65

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mu":3qahxscd said:
A stupid question: is the number of hole in the blade the same of that in the handle? :lol:
Odd as it might sound the number doesn't always match. A number of members here have had old saws where the saw plate was a replacement or swap-in and the original holes weren't spaced correctly for the new handle, so they had to drill one or more additional holes. I've had one of those myself, three handle screws but five holes in the saw plate.
 
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