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I think before the brand disappeared altogether they were made by the same factory that make the iTech stuff sold by Scott&Sargent. They're supposed to be reasonably good, from what I've heard.

We have a axminster 350 and it can't fully tension a standard half inch blade despite the specs saying it can. I tend to tell people to drop down a size to get a properly tensioned blade on these saws. Atleast the Hobby (or Craft) ones anyway. To counter my own argument, we have one of...

How long do you leave your boards after planing before you start thicknessing them ? I can plane a board down to a decent flatness (checked with straight edge three ways) but then I come to thickness and they’ve curved longitudinally. My initial thought is that I’m planing too fast, as in I’m...

...... when thicknessing long boards to minimise rear end snipe. Yes. I’ll accept that, as I can see benefit. That was not the problem I was having, though.

I understand that and I’m not discounting it. It’s what Steve’s video explains, after all. However, that’s not the issue I was having. Anyway, it’s sorted now and I’m a happy man. It’s really made my workflow better, as I now don’t have as much remedial work to do after gluing up boards and...

Of course there was a point to the thread. There’s lots of Axminster enthusiasts on this forum and I thought try and find out if any of them had similar issues with this machine ie. if it was a common characteristic coming fresh from the factory and subsequently if there was an unofficial...

Sorted. It was a combination of the rollers having too much tension (they now have the minimum amount of tension on the springs) and the table support column not being secured. At the base of the column there is four M8 cap head bolts with accompanying M6 adjustment studs. All were slightly...

I’m not keen on lifting the workpiece as it comes out, to be honest, as even a tiny over deflection will cause more issues. How do I ensure I’m applying the same amount of lifting force every time ? Also, on my last PT, this never happened as, I believe, the table was supported at each corner...

Gentlemen, Just got one of these machines (when it arrived it was actually a AT107PT...) and it has snipe while thicknessing out of the box. It's absolutely spot on while planing, flat, true and snipe free. While thicknessing, however, i get snipe at both ends of the workpiece. The table has...

I made a console table using mitre joints, and in the process of making a second. Biscuits appear to be good enough. I can stand on the table no problem and I’m a big lad :D As far as clamping, I used ratchet straps with blocks at the corners.

I've got a couple of Fisch's Black series forstner bits. Very impressed. Only used them on oak, walnut and ash up to now, but they leave a very clean finish. 15mm and 19mm. Bought from Axminster for convenience, but I'll be looking for a cheaper supplier in the future. Gary.

Does your saw have plastic adjustable track runners like the Makita ? Mine have worn to the point where there is a very slight (maybe 0.2mm) amount of play when the saw is seated in the track. I have to gently force the saw in towards the splinter strip as I cut, else it wanders within groove...

Hi Mick, Could I get: Cabinetmaking the professional approach - Alan Peters - Hardback - excellent resource - some creases to dust cover £20 Please ? Cheers Gary.

If you're planning on moving the fan shroud away from the impeller, be careful not to move it too far away, as you'll be reducing the airflow the further you move it.

I'm also looking to do this in the future, and, as far as I know, you lose around 10% of the power depending on the rating of your inverter. I'm almost certain you don't gain power.

Open both doors and slacken until the lade moves freely. Seat the blade on the wheels more or less in the middle of the rubber tyre. Tighten the blade up a little until it won't slide freely on the rubber anymore. Spin the wheels just with your hands a few rotations at the same time as using...

I have a Norton 400\800 oil stone i use for Western\HSS chisels and plane blades and 400\1000 & 3000\8000 waterstones I use for Japanese chisels and plane blades. I don't see any difference in sharpness between the oil stones and water stones on the Western blades, but for the Japanese stuff...

I love Makita power tools, especially their LXT stuff, but I never buy their consumables as they're usually expensive and not very good, apart from their plunge saw blades for the SPJ600 which are quite good for the money.

Halfords Pro range is very good. I heard somewhere that they're made by Facom, so if true, should be good enough for most people ! Quite reasonably priced as well.

No, it should b fine.