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There's a couple of reasons why flattening on wet and dry can be troublesome. As said previously it only takes a small amount of curling to make things out of flat, especially as sandpaper is compressible. Another factor that contributes is that silicon carbide breaks down quickly, you tend to...

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has any tips for reducing tearout while using a router plane, particularly in soft woods? I've read that the spear point blades can help but I only have straight blades. Thanks!

Larger amp hour batteries absolutely provide more power to the tools. Yes, in an ideal world two 18v batteries would both deliver 18 volts regardless of capacity, but voltage drops as batteries discharge, meaning a larger battery keeps a higher voltage for longer. That and the current draw...

Hand planing a nice sharp 90 degree corner when dimensioning wood, then slicing my hand when I pick the piece up.

Seems like an attempt at a combination rip/cross pattern but with large gullets to deal with sawdust.

I use evaporust, it's good stuff. I've done electrolysis with some parts too. It takes time to set up and needs ventilation due to fumes (hydrogen I think) but it works very quickly! No matter what method, remove lose rust with a wire brush/steel wool first. It makes the process more effective...

I'm curious how much better they are than regular dowels with glue. Every review I've found has been shining though.

IIRC the evolution saws are often for cutting lots of different materials and so runs at a slower speed then most woodworking mitre saws. I don't know how much difference it makes but something to keep in mind.

Those look like Chinese style planes with western blades in them. Edit: THE HNT GORDON SMOOTHER and TRYING PLANE

Woah, zombie thread from 13 years ago :LOL:

So long as it's silicone free and you don't put a ton of wax on it should be fine. Spread a thin layer, wait 10-15 minutes to haze over then buff off all the excess with a clean cloth until it shines.

At least I realised before cutting the pins 😂

Not the end of the world but I once cut the tails out of the end of a board instead of the waste between the tails 😂 did three dovetails like that before realising.

Apologies to ask such a basic question but are you using a decent bit? I've found most slotted bits are awful, they aren't ground with parallel sides but are tapered so they mush the heads up. Using one that's too thin will damage the heads too, needs to be a snug fit.

+1 window breaker, you see them on buses and trains.

It might be because he doesn't lift the plane on the return path, so it's more likely to drag a shaving back through the mouth. I usually lift and even then often remove the shaving after each pass. I find it usually helps give me a cleaner/easier start for the next shaving. Depends on the wood...

You should be able to maintain it. Are you using a honing guide? I find honing guides fine for mild cambers, but freehand is the way to go for more extreme cambers.

I'll be interested to hear what it's like once on. Especially how it fares for "in use" tools, how often it needs to be reapplied on working chisels and handplanes. My workshop is next to the sea, has big temp swings and not well sealed so corrosion is a real issue for me. Long term storage is...

Wax doesn't work in my workshop, I've tried beeswax, paste wax, renaissance wax and none of them wholly prevented rust. Granted my workshop is not well sealed, goes through big temperature changes and is right next to the sea so worst case scenario really. Best thing I've found are vci emitters...

I find most grinders function pretty much the same, and it's really the tool rest that really need to be spot on. Most included tools rests on grinders can't be adjusted for angle and so you have to try and do it freehand. I can highly recommend the Veritas grinder tool rest, very good piece of...