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I set a bevel square to the angle and slide it parallel to the saw as I file.

I've never found it necessary to joint the teeth every time I sharpen, nor set them if the saw is cutting well. But each to their own. But I also wouldn't be too hard on Paul Sellers' video- he's just setting out the basics, at some point I think you have to develop your own technique and...

Every now and then, you can 'reset" your shooting board by planing away the step with a shoulder plane.

I use the bearings from a rebate router bit kit. Gives me lots of options. http://www.amazon.ca/Freud-32-524-8-Inc ... B0000225ZP

I made a hickory axe handle a couple of months ago. I found a drawknife was very useful at removing material fast. It's a very hard wood, and I did quite a lot of shaping with a rasp. You can shape it when green but make sure it's dry- even over dried- when you wedge it to the head...

I use the blade from an old compass saw in a reamer. The teeth were filed off and the edge sharpened like a scraper. Here is a link to an article on how to make one. http://www.greenwoodworking.com/SawStee ... eamerPlans

Check out Curtis Buchanan's youtube videos on making windsor chairs. He has one where he explains how to combine rake and splay sightlines into a resultant angle sightline. Peter Galbert's blog also has a layout calculator to work out the same thing. As Andy said, you need a brace and bit, and...

Okay, worth asking. I've made plenty of windsor chairs, and plenty of jointed chairs, but I've never made a jointed chair with a solid wood seat and that's something I'd like try, so I'm gathering examples of how makers have dealt with the leg to seat joints. Maloof made some chairs along the...

Thanks and sorry, I'm afraid they are all windsor-style! Typically, you drill the holes in windsors before the seat sculpting is done so you have a flat reference surface to work off.

Almost completed, just the final clean-up of glue joints and chamfers and then the oiled finish to go. I've had the glass tops custom-made and these end tables are ready for delivery. Definitely the most unforgiving pieces I've ever made- all the circles, mitres and corners had to be...

My largest gouge is a #7 sweep 40mm Pfeil. I've done chair seats with this and it should be ok for your needs. I would use an adze to take out the preliminary waste though.

I didn't find a ramped shooting board to offer any improvement over a regular one, but it did reduce the maximum thickness of wood you can plane so I stuck with a regular one. I use a blade with no camber (re Custard's post).

I need to true mine up every now and then, but the basic board has lasted me a few years now. The reasons are many. Sometimes my blade is more exposed than normal and this will cut into the side of the running board. A small skew in the blade setting can affect the squareness of the cut. I...

I use this one. I searched for a vintage one for ages but they were all rubbish or rusted and not that much cheaper once shipping was factored in. http://www.musicaravan.com/gluepot

I have the Hack book. It's more of a good-looking reference book rather than a guide to using planes. It's a good book to have if you want a sprinkling of history, the variety of planes around, how they work etc. There are other books such as Wearing's, Watson's which are more suited to the user...

Excellent videos. Great stuff. Ties are generally considered a no-no in workshops now because they can be sucked into machinery. Only last week, our cleaner's uncle lost his arm in a machine when his glove got caught up. Absolutely horrific.

I do use the new narrow blade holder from veritas to sharpen my shoulder plane blade. I have to agree with Derek in that it excels at this task. I used to sharpen it freehand but now I use the jig. To set the blade, I place the plane on its side on a flat surface, push down on the side of the...

Glad he's going to be fine. You have to have your own rules that work for you. And the benefits to the boy of being in a workshop instead of on an iPad are well worth it imo. My own rule with my kids who are 7 and 9 is they can use saws, planes, spokeshaves, drills, small axes, but not chisels...

I had the LN large scraper plane and liked it for a while, but then sold it after it fell out of use. I prefer the simple card scraper for most work, or the Veritas card scraper plane sometimes if I have a lot of scraping to do and I know the hand scraper will get too hot to hold. You can't...

I only use my #7 jointer for truing edges. I use a jack plane or a #5 1/2 for flattening boards. If you use winding sticks and straight edges, you can see where the problem areas are and smaller planes than a jointer will get you where you need to be with less effort and faster than with a...