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  1. L

    Walnut UV/ageing protection

    Oil won’t stop fading, I have oiled black walnut bookcases that are going mahogany. Ercol made pebble tables in black walnut, early ones were finished in clear lacquer, later ones had a dark stain and clear lacquer, quite nice albeit not authentic, so to speak.
  2. L

    A nice finish for elm

    I did an Elm table in Danish oil, very nice. However, I did an elm chest of drawers in Danish oil, and areas of end grain have gone very dark over the years. Not nice. My favourite finish is hard wax oil. My choice is Fiddes semi gloss, 4 to 5 thin coats applied with a white cotton rag, denib...
  3. L

    Restoring dark Ercol table to natural wood

    I know this is an old thread. However … Up to ~2000 Ercol used nitrocellulose lacquer. The quickest and cleanest way to remove it is with a cabinet scraper, followed by a light sanding. Stripper is messy and costly. Currently Ercol use a water based acrylic lacquer, which is rather tough. It...
  4. L

    water based paint strippers v DCM strippers

    There are various kinds of stripper. These people sell a range: http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com I've tried three formulations for various surfaces. They sell one which smells of ripe bananas, I forget the active ingredient, ethyl acetate I think. It worked well on acrylic furniture...
  5. L

    Anyone ever had their own house built?

    There are quite a few parcels of land selling near me. The latest is 2.5 acres for 70 grand. No planning permission. Seems an expensive gamble to me, since at that price it is not for farming.
  6. L

    sanding sealer and bri wax finish.

    Alternatively try hardwax oil, two coats, then wax.
  7. L

    Why so much variation in finish for elm furniture

    Yes the new stuff has some figuring and grain, and the hardwax oil brings it out nicely. But there is no depth to the wood, no shimmer, it is very flat. This is a similar but later chest of drawers that someone else has refinished: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Retro ... true&rt=nc You...
  8. L

    Why so much variation in finish for elm furniture

    Interesting point. The cabinet could be a different species or variety. They now use wood from America and Europe.
  9. L

    Why so much variation in finish for elm furniture

    I assume the nicer items are pre Dutch elm, the chest is pre 1964. I think you are right, the cabinet wood seemed softer, less dense. It was definitely imported wood. Come to think of it, Nordic spruce is denser than English spruce because it grows more slowly. Perhaps imported elm is from...
  10. L

    Why so much variation in finish for elm furniture

    I've restored 4 items of furniture made wholly or partially from elm, stripping the original finish, and applying an oil based one and wax. I'm surprised at the huge variation in the wood. A chest of drawers finished with hardwax oil and wax is superb. The grain shows through, and the wood...
  11. L

    Uncomfortable with recommended toy finish

    Mineral oil is an ingredient of dried currents.
  12. L

    Can oil paint be used over a water-based primer?

    I did my skirting, architraves and window boards in acrylic primer followed by 2 coats of Sikkens oil based paint. I've also used Zinsser 123 which feels very like acrylic primer. For a toolbox it'll be fine. Given a choice I'd use oil based primer as it goes on smoother and thinner, acrylic...
  13. L

    Hardwax oil on furniture

    Thanks all. Just in case anyone is interested, having completely stripped the chest (but not the drawers) for a second time, I applied the hardwax oil using the manufacturers instructions and as described above i.e. with a brush, and a supply of small clean cloths. I thinned the oil with 5-10%...
  14. L

    Hardwax oil on furniture

    Thanks all. Yes, they do say to paint on, then wipe off. It is almost as if you have to keep a wet edge. I tested on a 60cm square piece of elm (a shelf from a cupboard) and the result was lovely, very impressive. I think I will email them and see what they say. This must be user error, but I'm...
  15. L

    Hardwax oil on furniture

    I applied Fiddes hardwax oil to an elm chest of drawers which I had spent ages stripping back to the bare wood. The draws came out beautifully, including the wooden handles which were inset into the draw fronts. However, the frame is not good. I applied the finish with a rag, rubbing it in as...
  16. L

    Refinishing Ercol dining set

    Oh, and you will find dings on the legs, and maybe on the top although that lacquer may well be thick! I hope I am not stating the obvious, but dings can often by completely removed by repeated wetting, so that the wood expands, and then you sand flush. I found the best filler was wood dust...
  17. L

    Refinishing Ercol dining set

    The cross braces between the legs indicate that your table is one of the older models, probably from the 50's or 60's. You can find some old Ercol catalogues online here: http://www.ercol.com/archive Before ~2000 they used nitrocellulose lacquer on some if not all of their furniture. The...
  18. L

    Stripping acrylic varnish

    No problem: http://www.stripperspaintremovers.com/ I have no connection with them except as a customer. I've used the poultice stripper to get paint off plaster, and it works well, and another one to strip architraves, works well too. I used Solvistrip yesterday. Cheaper than B&Q stripper...
  19. L

    Stripping acrylic varnish

    Searching online, the solvent might be ethyl acetate. Has anyone made their own stripper using solvent, water and starch (cornflour?) ?
  20. L

    Stripping acrylic varnish

    I will look for a scraper his weekend. In the meantime I tested: Acetone: little effect as too volatile. Isopropyl alcohol: slight effect, too volatile. Meths: softens the acrylic, making scraping easier. I also tried a sample of a stripper from an online company, smells of pears, looks...
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