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Almost 6 months since my last post on the workshop thread, but this will probably be the last. I'm waiting for a couple more machines to be delivered (bench drill press and planer/thicknesser), and need to install PVC ducting for the cyclone instead of swapping a flexihose between machines, but...

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll probably go with mixing sand into the varnish.

Hi, In my workshop build (here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/first-workshop-build-t60020.html, I installed water-resistant T&G chipboard flooring, and applied 3 coats of floor varnish for further protection against staining etc. Unfortunately, after a few months of wear and the inevitable...

Thanks for the kind words. Yep, workbench is next, but will take a while due to work commitments. I'll be sure to post pics when its done though :)

Couple of photos to mark a workshop milestone. I finished the electrics and installed the first machine - the new FB510 bandsaw from Felder. I've set it up and done a few test cuts, but won't start anything serious until I have dust extraction installed. Regards, Drew

I've found similar comments on French woodworker forums comparing the two brands. Having said that, I had no real issues with build quality or performance on the Robland machines I used (it was actually a saw/moulder combi and separate planer/thicknesser). If the SCM is built to a similar or...

Hi, I'm looking for a decent quality combi with a smallish footprint, and like the look of the SCM MiniMax C26 Genius, reviewed here http://www.scmgroup.fr/media/files/1399_c_30_genius_test_furniture_and_cabinetmaking_195.pdf (correction, this is a review of the C30, slightly bigger machine...

Sorry to resurrect such an old post, but just thought I'd update since the build is almost done. Finally got the door fitted, so the outside is now completed. Inside, I've insulated with wood-fibre panels and sheathed the walls with chipboard, and am in the process of doing the same for the...

Hi Dick, Yes, I'll leave the larch to weather naturally. Its naturally resistant, similar to red cedar, and should weather eventually to a silver-grey colour. I may stain the corner and window trim to match the windows and bargeboards though. Originally I intended to make the doors myself...

I left room for a sill and casing around each window. I'm not sure what you mean by a rabat at the corners. However, I stapled a vertical strip of impermeable wrap on the battens at each corner as additional weatherproofing, so any water ingress can run off even before getting to the inner wrap...

Latest progress - fitted the windows and made good progress on the larch cladding, despite the sleet and hail this weekend :roll: Larch is surprisingly hard - I bent a few stainless steel nails before deciding to predrill. I'll also make the window, door and corner trim from ripped lengths...

I'm following local guidelines for cladding, which recommend that it should start at least 20cm from ground level. The battens do extend beyond the edge of the blockwork to allow the first board to overlap the top of the blocks, so runoff will not drip directly onto them. Obviously rain will hit...

I started fulltime training with a guitar-builder at the end of september, so things have slowed considerably on the workshop. The roof is now finished though, which is a major milestone. I also put 2 coats of black bitumen paint on the blockwork to waterproof it, and have fitted the first...

Dewalt 621K and 625, and considering getting a Bosch GKF 600.

Hi Chris, No, he prefers to tile both sides completely and do the ridge last, so I'm hoping it'll be done tomorrow. At least I learned how to measure and mark out the roof, if I ever have to do it again. Drew

My roofing problem was resolved by having a neighbour whose son is a roofer, and who offered to do it for free - I'm the one offering encouragement from the ladder... He did 3/4 of the roof in less than a day, and I also have the security of knowing it's being done properly. I'd never make...

Hi, Here's a taster of how the roof will look eventually This was basically a little trial just to see how things fit. I already did a full test row, as I'd dimensioned the roof just from the tile spec sheet. Luckily, eveything seems good - no cuts need at the ends, and a good overhang for...

That would explain it ;) Ok, I suppose the good news is I haven't done anything outrageously stupid, and it can be fixed. The easiest for me would be bitumen paint, assuming its readily available around here. Thanks to all who replied, Drew

Basically equivalent to 3.5N. The B40 code means they support 40bar, which is 4N/mm2, if that sheds any further light...

I filled every other block with concrete to give a solid base for the bottom plate, but generally they are left hollow by local builders - mainly because they lay them "face-up", so its not possible to backfill.