Recent content by Woodworking Chancer

Thanks Tom, My ladder is currently set back as when I planned it, it seemed natural to me to have a toe-kick type arrangement. It wouldn't be tricky for me to pad that all out for it to sit flush. I've seen these with actual skirting (but usually lower height than the rest of the room) but...

Yeah that's what caused me to doubt myself as it doesn't seem necessary for a wardrobe. I've seen them recessed on wardrobes from online searches, and it seems to look OK, but then I've seen loads flush (looks a bit odd to me), but also loads with a lower height skirting that seems to look...

Thanks Macca, Just so I can check my understanding - I've never really fully understood what people refer to as a return - are you basically saying to close the gap I've got in the picture and I'll be mimicking what happens with kitchen cabinets with the decor panel? I was thinking that if I...

Hi everyone, I'm a DIYer who's in the process of making my first inbuilt wardrobes. I have the carcasses all built and ready to go, and I'm installing on a ladder plinth. I'm suddenly doubting myself on infill strips etc... I'd like them to be flush to my doors, which are currently going to...

Hi folks, I'm a DIYer doing his first built in wardrobe for my own home I'm renovating. I got some great advice here on door and filler strip spacing. I've received all my cut panels from a company and ready to start making. But I've just started doubting my plinth height and whether carpet...

Thanks Mike, That's brilliant. I think I'll go for Hidrofugo 22mm. I've seen a fair bit of info that suggests it will take paint better than the Medite so I'll give it a go! And that's really helpful on the slight bend too, as I'm not sure I'd have thought of that at all. Cheers, Pete

Looks useful! Thanks.

Great info again, thanks. I hadn't spotted there was more than one type. The cruciform ones are the ones I'm more familiar with and appear the better option.

Thanks everyone, some great input here. I agree that it looks to me like the Blum hinges negate any issue with small gaps due to the way they open (I spent a good few minutes opening and closing my parents' kitchen cabinets to look at the action on them!). I'll have to spend a bit of time...

This is where I show my newbie lack of knowledge. You've lost me on this one! Are you saying 2mm gaps might be a bit too small as the door could hit the one next to it? If so, I wonder how to be sure how to work that out as Blum hinges I think have a slightly odd outwards and sideways motion at...

Noted! Sharpening is one thing I can do reasonably well, but I'll keep out of any debates for sure 😃

Thanks - good advice and I think I'm just going to edge the fronts. I'm hoping that the sides not being edged won't be visible with 0.5mm either side. The cutting company take account of the edging in overall dimensions that I provide as far as I know, but I'll double check that to be sure.

Thanks, I'm a bit obsessive about trying to get things right, but especially as I might get the material cut for me as I'm leaving towards Kronospan mfc, so hoping to measure one hundred times and cut once! If it's too big I can always cut it down a bit more, but too small and I'm a bit screwed...

*drawers BELOW and then open shelving above. Fat fingers...

Just the two carcasses with a 500mm section with drawers before and then open shelving above, which I'm not sure yet if I'll place in the middle or left. They complicate things a bit I think to keep gaps even. Actually I think I've just worked out that I need 12mm of gaps altogether with infill...