Recent content by rmp

Thanks for all the advice. Interesting to hear such a variety of possible approaches. For the sake of completeness, I thought I'd reply with what I did. I didn't fancy altering the existing clock too much, as from a conservation point of view I wanted to be as least invasive as possible. I...

Thanks for the replies. The case could well be walnut as these clocks were made in walnut from time to time. The back is polished as the full length door is glass so it is visible. The clock isn't floor standing, it is hung on the wall. Unfortunately the bowing means the clock doesn't lie...

Thanks for the help. Do you think using a softwood wood create more problems due to differing rates of expansion? It would be much easier than using hardwood (having checked, the original battens seem to be softwood).

As far as I can tell, the sides do not appear to be forced out. It's about 100 years old and in terms of value, certainly not something I'd want to risk damaging. Regarding straightening the back, how would you go about that? Anyhow I have attached some pictures as requested.

Hello I am restoring a clock case, which is Mahogany. The back of the case has bowed in a concave fashion and will not be flat against the wall. There were originally three battens accross the back of the case, but these have been cut and are not re-useable. My plan is to replace the...

I had the Bosch Green multitool and it lasted for about four years. I didn't use it every day, but neither did it sit on the shelf for months on end. For the £50 I paid, I would say it was value for money and was sad when it went up in a puff of smoke. So I needed a replacement. I looked in...

Just thought I would follow up on what I decided in case this helps out anyone else reading this later in the same position. I took Bern's advice (thanks for that Bern!) and bought the (brand new) Makita without the plunge base for just shy of £100. I also bought a second-hand Elu MOF 96e...

I'm sold on the Makita, now the decision is the base kit for £100 or the complete kit for £200? Would this be man enough to route grooves with the plunge base (i.e for bookcase shelves) or would that be better with a dedicated 1/4" router? I like Berns comment that the saving would get a...

Norman - you have just enlighted me as to why they are called "under"pinners ! I have this: http://www.charnwood.net/shop/product/f ... kit?cid=48 It's great on some mouldings and not so good on others. Smaller ones seem to work better in my experience. I have never tried glueing and might...

I'm really pleased to hear that they are worth restoring, and yes do they feel far nicer in the hand than modern plastic handles. Since the general opinion seems to be that saw doctors are not all that, can anyone post a link to a site or video explaining how to re-sharpen them at home?

Apologies if this is a silly question but is this worth restoring? The reason I ask is that I have a few old brass backed tenon saws in the garage I inherited from my late step-father, and I have never known what to do with them. They are also marked Tyzack. When you can buy a brand new Bahco...

Plusgas?

I use a grinder for shaping and the Tormek for sharpening. I have a T3 and think it's great... but I have found that in addition to the machine itself you really need to buy the diamond truing tool (about £50) and when you use it go *very, very* slowly to get a good result. The other item...

Me again! Been looking some more and the previous link I posted doesn't come with some useful parts. This does: https://www.londonpowertools.co.uk/elec ... t0700cx2$2 And is still cheaper than a decent 1/4" router. And the video demonstration is very compelling. Any thoughts chaps?

Hi deserter and bern, Thanks for your replies. So I take it you would both recommend a laminate trimmer over a 1/4" router to go with my 1/2". Looking at them both I think I like the Makita more, soft start and plunge. Bern, is your one the RT0700C, and does this seem like a good deal...