Hi again, thanks for the tips! Just to clear up the 'swinging a joist about', yes its for a joist, but the ends of the joist were rotten so I have already cut them off. I'm just replacing a 200mm long section right at the end of the joist where is pops out under a dormer. It's not supporting...
Well I found a narrower blade for my saw and tried a cut into the old wood. Went through it a lot better than I expected and made tighter bends of course.
The machine is a RSBS12 so quite small. Blade looks to be about 6 TPI.
I have a length of 175x100 on order so I'll give it a go soon.
It's...
I have to make 4 replacement ends for roof joists.
They are 175mm high, 100mm wide, so quite chunky.
This is the profile:
Not sure if my Record bandsaw would make a 100mm cut. I tried a bit of 20mm and it can cut this profile but the tight corners had to be done in a few nibbles. I guess a...
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Got into the loft with the chainsaw today. Not the best fun I've ever had, that's for sure.
I cut the ends off about 250mm in just after where the joist is sitting on a cross beam. I cut them square as access wasn't great.
I'm going to use splice plates to...
I have 4 joists that had rot in the ends. I have taken out the rotten wood and sprayed the timbers. Question is what the best way to repair the ends?
I think I have two options.
1: try and make a diagonal cut right through the joist, inside the loft, just before it emerges to the outside and...
I think I have blade tracking set ok (it stays on the wheels!) not 100% sure about correct tension though.
Also how close should the two sets of three ball-race blade guides be set? I have them such that they spin with the blade but you can stop them easily with a carefully placed stick. I...
I want to use this joint to make a three piece corner mitre joint (glued).
No sure the best, quickest and most accurate way to cut it such that I can do many repeated joints (A cube frame with these joints would need 24 cuts in all)
I have a mitre saw and a combi machine.
I am thinking I may...
Trying another method. Vertical circular saw cuts using a guide and then hammer and chisel. The rot depth is shallower on this side and more consistent depth so taking an inch off all along the front of the beam should get me well past the rotten stuff. Most of it is no more than half an inch...
Hi Pete, Don't have a power plane, but would one work on a beam 125mm wide? I need to get a good inch off across the whole beam.
I'm going to get a recip saw and give it a go. Cut a 70mm slot with the circular saw first then cut the remaining with the recip saw.
If that won't cut straight, I...
Still going at it! One dormer is done and it looks great. No mock tudor on it.
Onto the second one. This time I am cracking throught it about 5 times quicker, now I know what I'm doing!
The method I used before to clear off the front of the beams worked but it is S-L-O-W... (routing it off in...
I need to replace the barge boards on two dormer gables. The originals are actually 4x2 timber with a tiny bit of moulding on the bottom edge. There is also a strip of moulding to cover the edge of the sofit boards (which are above the bargeboard, just under the verge).
I have seen some houses...