Recent content by Lakeburch

It's just painted on then washed off after a minute, it turns the oak a shade of pink initially which gradually darkens. I really like the effect. I use slaked lime (calcium hydroxide).

This is turned from green oak then aged with lime and finished with hard wax oil. It's about 15cm x 15cm.

I've just set mine to 15 degrees to have a look, and have a 3mm gap between the plate and the 120 grit ceramic belt. You could either change to a non diamond belt or see if you have a gap if you set it to 20 degrees, you'll probably find this angle a bit more user friendly anyway.

Live edge bowl made from Ash and finished with acrylic lacquer.

It's open on mine, so this is what yours probably looks like.

This is made from green oak then painted with Rustina copper and aging solution.

I have one after Helen Bailey recommended them during a demo at Axminster Nuneaton. I usually run mine on half power and probably get about 5 hours run time and not the 7 as advertised. I bought the extension and have it suspended from a dust filter above my lathe using the magnetic base. My...

I always cut a relief in case of binding so i'm pretty sure it's not my technique

Hi John thank you for the reply, here's a photo:

I have recently bought the Axminster own make premium 3.2mm parting tool and every time I use it the wood burns and the steel blackens! I'm pretty sure it's not my technique or sharpening as I've owned the equivalent Sorby parting tool for years and it's been great, I also have the Crown...

I bought a set of carbide tools from Glen a couple of years ago and they've been great. Replacement cutters are very reasonably priced as well.

Hi Linus Are you still on the original battery after 5 years?

Here's a couple of larger bowls from the same tree

I've also just acquired some Cherry plum that had come down in the storms, a lot of it looks like yours with the larger bits very punky. Plum tree wood is supposedly very prone to splitting so I decided to turn mine thin and let it warp.