Recent content by Iwf

So the subject is now closed. I've had an electrician PAT test the saw, and all is well. He also confirmed the view that 16amp spur with 16 amp mains sockets and plugs could be used instead of the 13amp fused plug. I fitted everything this evening and ran up the saw, both naked and with the...

I'll post some photos tomorrow along with a better description of the requirement. Had my shop been anything normal then I'd have probably bought a proper saw with a cast iron top, but my shop is actually an attic, so anything normal would have been to heavy. Once stripped of the legs and...

Ok then If I'm going yo do this myself how would I calculate the thickness of plate needed to support a 45kg saw motor assembly. 6,8, or 10mm

I recently bought a Makita site saw (Makita 2712), around which I've built a table saw. After a few months use, I've realised the pressed metal top isn't optimal, so I was thinking of replacing it with a smaller sheet of aluminium maybe 10mm think , with a slot cut for the saw blade, and holes...

The UHMW tape arrived today. What a difference that made. Perfect solution. The other suggestions wouldn't work for me, as I've a metal slot and metal runner. I will be waxing the ply on the table though. Thanks for all the suggestions.

True, But that would assume I was going to run 30amp worth of kit. The amp reference is the loading the cable can take, when not embedded in plaster. The point being that it's better than a long extension lead with a 13 amp plug on the end. At most I'm likely to run an dust extractor and the...

Extending the ring main to the shop, isn't practical just yet, but I've moved forward a little. I've run a 2.5mm spur from the ring main into a comsumer unit in the shop. That's given me both an RCP and 30, 16 and 6 amp MCBs. Kevin Boon's great article suggest I can run 30amps through the...

Even with the standard Makita blade, no load, no sled the saw tripped out first time on Sunday. So I bought a measurement tool, the sort that measures power from a single device. Tested a few things around the house (Kettle 7 amps), before taking in the shop. Imagine my surprise when hooked...

Will be getting myself some of that, pronto . Great solution

Ah , a simple solution Great thanks

Hi I'vebuilt a home built table saw built from a Makita site saw with a 25mm ply surround into which I've cut a mitre channel for a sled. However I'm finding the sled sticks slightly as I push it across the table. It's not the runner, as that's metal , it's more the friction between the table...

Again thanks for all the advice over this matter. I'll be setting the blade to be parallel to the mitre slot and the rip fence just beyond the gullet. I see several folk use a plastic edged rip fence. Anyone tell me what material that is ?

Gentlemen Thank you all for all the insightful information. I've learnt a lot, and avoided some dangerous situations, just by reading these replies. In particular about how best to set blade in reference to the mitre slot and fence. It makes perfect sense that the blade shouldn't be exactly...

I need a bit of advice regarding rip fences. I've built my own table saw, using the Makita Site Saw as a base. The rip fence that came with the saw was rubbish so i bought the Axminster Rip Fence upgrade. All is basically well except for three aspects. Firstly the fence only reaches half...

My setup is probably one of the oddest you could come across. My shop is actually in my attic ( I only tackle small scale stuff) From a power perspective there's a single 30amp ring main, lighting and kitchen being off separate circuits. Currently I'm running essentially extension cords...