Recent content by chief

Thanks for the good advice once again :D . I was thinking about the height reducers (although i would have to use the stanley interlocking packers as there is not enough ceiling height for the brackets) because the ceiling is no way near level. I do think that your method would look great...

Hi guys :D , I posted on here about a wek ago regarding staney sliding doors. I got some good advice from dave w, the advice was that i should cut back the carpet and level a batten of the floor to fix the bottom track to (the bottom track takes all the weight of the doors). I need some advice...

Hi guys :D , can you offer me some advice on finishing of my built in wardrobes? To refresh your memory the wardrobes are made from 18mm birch ply, and the shelves are supported with 20mm by 20mm battens. I have two problems mainly. My first problem is, two of the shelves have gaps at the...

Hi guys :D , can you offer me some advice on finishing of my built in wardrobes? To refresh your memory the wardrobes are made from 18mm birch ply, and the shelves are supported with 20mm by 20mm battens. I have two problems mainly. My first problem is, two of the shelves have gaps at the side...

Thanks everyone for your input :D . Dave W, is trying to level a batten on top of the carpet worth a try :?: Or is it just much better / easier to cut back the carpets? thanks

Hello, i need some advice about fitting stanley full length sliding doors. If it helps the particular doors i am refering to are the antique pine 36" by 89". After doing some research, the suppliers say the doors fit a minimum opening of 2260mm, i will be fitting 4 doors in total and so will...

What glue and pins should i use to fix the shelf lipping, and face frame (or whatever you suggest to cover the exposed ply edges) :?: Is there a rule of thumb for working out the size of the pins :?: thanks

I will just have to persist with levelling the floor with strips of timber like you suggested. face frame wise i do mean to cover the exposed ply edges. As the shleves will have lipping, it is only the Side, top and bootom edges of the carcass that will be exposed. I thought a face frame would...

Another reason i was thinking 32mm by 18mm was to help stop the shelfs sagging (something you suggested for wide shelves in a earlier post, although you didn't mention any dimensions i aquired them from a wooodworking book). Although 32mm by 18mm was a missprint, i did mean to post 32mm by...

The birch ply seems good quality (from russia i think they said), after rubbing an offcut by hand with 320g paper it came up pretty nice. I was thinking 32mm by 18mm for the the shelf lipping to hide the shelf support battens, but i might try biscuit and carcass screws for the shelfs if the...

Hi, let me just start by thanking everyone that has offered me advice so far in particular jasonb, it has made the job a lot easier :D . i am making some built in wardrobes out of birch ply, and i have a few morre questions if you dont mind. 1. To fix the back to the carcass, is it ok to use...

sorrry dod, pythagoras was a lot cleverer than me, and i have not done any of that since school :oops:

thanks for the great advice again jason :D The ceiling height is about 2.3m high. The wardrobes are going to be 610mm deep (this is the dimension i got from a woodwork book so i dont if it is correct :oops: ), would it better to make them 600mm deep instead :?: I had planned to make the...

Cheers jasonb :D for answering my question again, if you dont mind a cuouple more questions and then i should be ready. With regards the base of the wardrobes i am right that bottom panel is at floor level, and not raised like with kitchen cabinets :?: Is there a rule of thumb with...

that look very nice jasonb. Is it a good material (strong) :?: With regards the base of the wardrobes i am right that bottom panel is at floor level, and not raised like with kitchen cabinets :?: thanks again