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Hi Mindthatwhatouch,
I'm new to this forum so have just picked up your build thread. Nice workshop size, I'm jealous. The use of Cellotex etc under the concrete floor is standard practice and will be fine for your workshop. The loads from your concrete slab, I recommend 150mm with A142 mesh, will not damage the insulation due to the concrete spreading the load uniformly over the insulation etc. The door dpm arrangement is also fine for your purposes; the only tricky bit you will come across is at the entrance jamb/ blockwork reveal. Here the dpm changes from underslab to having to run up the internal face of the blockeork reveal, which many builders often do badly, judging from my experience over 30 years supervising construction works. There are special units for these situations that companies like Pemanite used to supply, but they aren't cheap or easily obtained so I'd just 'bodge it' like most folk tend to, and it shouldn't really cause you any concerns, for a garage at least.
 
Many thanks for the information Mannyroad, and welcome to the forum.
Re the insulation, under or over the DPM?
Torn between an EPS100 50mm thick and a kingspan thermafloor TF70 at 25mm thick which has KPA of 140, need to keep the spirally costs down.

Tony
 
The insulation usually goes above the dpm. I always used to specify Kingspan Thermafloor TF70; it's quality gear. I don't suppose it's much different to other insulation boards of similar composition but I've been out of the game for a few years now and products have moved on. But I'd always lean towards Kingspan personally.
 
Called in the Cavalry.

Steve Maskery has his 'Ray' here is mine.

Karl Åne all the way from Norway, there is nothing like a deadline to get me to pull my finger out. Get the concrete floor in before he catches his flight home.
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Also Phil and Colin came to lend more much needed hands.
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More pics and details to come.
 

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So Monday and Tuesday were spent moving yet more mud, backfilling and flattening and running round with the wacker plate.
Needed a digger on Wednesday to remove the excess soil (where does it all come from?), also called in two extra pairs of hands to help lay hardcore, ballast and sand.

Thursday morning (with Karl feeling a little worse for wear :wink: well he is on holiday!) DPM 50mm EPS round the perimeter, 25mm PIR insulation above the DPM then some A142 mesh with a few bits of rebar tied in strategic positions.
Ready for the concrete pour thursday afternoon, which was late, trouble with the concrete plant. So in the end it was all a bit rushed, not as neat a job as I would of liked but its well vibrated down and if there is the odd void below it should be fine (hopefully)

Quick change, take Karl to the airport!

It was too wet to do much with the concrete in the the evening, so just another pass with the tamping board before floating it off early morning, before going to work!!

The best bit, the site is flat. :D

Couple of time lapse videos. look out for the odd strange pose !!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMRmaPr ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF8kJJGlUew
 
Few more pics of the levelling and preparation for the concrete.
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Across the entrance a temporary piece of shuttering, approx 20mm lower than the block wall to give a slight slope at the doorway.
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Anyone know how to stop the photos rotating automatically when I post them?
 

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mindthatwhatouch":2ntzj2bf said:
John/Hobbyshop.
Hopefully you can see the pics now?????

Hobbyshop. Yes I have seen the excellent.. build a shed Mikes way post.
Just wish I had the option of using timber.

Not a very good couple of days, progress is painfully slow due to the rain...

Steve M has said he now has a way forward with his workshop exterior treatment. He hasn't said but I presume this will still be timber. Maybe it is an option for you as well.

Terry.
 
Thanks Terry,
Bit late for me, committed to the blockwork, but maybe useful as I will be cladding part of the building.
I shall continue watching Steve's thread with interest.

Tony
 
Hi,

Just been catching up on recent posts and saw you very interesting project. I built myself a new workshop over the last year and now have a cosy shed.

I faced similar issues about non-combustible materials as I really wanted wood cladding, but in the end I used Cedral fibre cement cladding boards. The final job looks really good and it was very easy to work with if just a bit heavy to fix single handed. The general construction is a steel frame with fibre cement external cladding and a tiled roof on timber rafters supported by steel purlins.

I went a different route to you with the floor and laid the concrete slab with no insulation, but once the building was up I laid another dpc over it then 3"x2" battens over ithat with celotex between and chipboard flooring over. The chipboard is finished with Dulux industrial floor paint.

The building deliberately has a low thermal mass with a reasonable but not ott insulation to the walls and roof and works really well. It stayed pretty cool in the summer with the doors and windows open and I'm now finding that it comes up to a comfortable temperature very quickly and stays comfortable on the current cold and miserable evenings. I do think that the warm floor plays a big part in making it comfortable.

So far it has also stayed feeling very dry, not at all damp inside, although that's subjective of course. My only regret is that I had to stay <30m2 as I could use twice the space.

Please keep updating the build photos as it is very useful for other would-be builders.

Regards,

Colin
 
Thanks for the comments Colin,
Appreciate what you are saying about space, I have gone as big as I realistically can and it seems to be shrinking, especially the width as I had to allow for space between my foundations and the neighbours.

Blocks are slowly going in.....
blocks.jpg


Like your opinion on the returns and the pier on each end. Listed in order of strength and number of blocks required...
option 1: Half block pier on each end.
option 2: Full block pier on each end.
option 3: double thickness wall on each return.

Below ground I doubled the wall thickness on each return to keep it nice and strong, but is it necessary above ground. I may well split the difference and do double blocks up to DPC. My main concern is the South west corner, how strong will this be with a half block pier on each end between the stud wall and the pedestrian door opening?
100mm wide 7.2N blocks.

Sketch attached for your info, opinions please gents, especially if you are a brickie :lol:
block layout.jpg


Thanks
Tony
 

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Almost up to DPC level, just a few blocks to go in.
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Any opinions on the return walls, and piers at the openings as per my above post.

Maybe if I can get a 2 hour pass on Christmas eve, I can get ready for the DPC.

Have a good holidays whatever you are doing.
 

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Finally finished the block work
:D
Work and weather has meant it's taken far longer than anticipated, doesn't it always.
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I love doing the blockwork, making something that feels so permanent and personal. Looks like a nice flat job.
 
When blockwork is done properly, it always "looks" good, just like you have done!
Excellent job, Almost a pity to plaster it!
Rodders
 
First things first, somewhere dry to work.
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Half laps cut, and as its recycled sawn wood a quick lick of preservative.
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I think I have used enough straps :wink:
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Nice Tidy job! and a cracking workshop.
You've obviously worked hard on this, but It has turned out really well.
Have you decided on the roof details yet?
Regards Rodders
 
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