Worktop mitre cut

[SteveLuck]

I will be fitting a kitchen worktop shortly, walnut, and would like to mitre the ends and drop the worktop vertically to the ground. I'm going to use dominos as this will be joining end grain to end grain. I have a mafell mt55 however this will only cut 40.5mm at 45 degrees any ideas what tool I could use to cut a perfect mitre? The worktops are 40mm thick so I calculate for a 45 degree mitre it will be 56.76mm. I've done this before on the mafell in two passes by flipping the worktop but it was a nightmare to line up, almost impossible.

The festool TS 75 will cut 55mm at 45degrees so this won't do it. I don't have a sliding table on my bench saw and it wouldn 't really be practical to take 4m of worktop to this even if I did. Any ideas how I can make this cut would be greatly appreciated.

 

[kostello]

I think you may have got the wrong end of the stick... A festool TS 55 can cut a 45 degree bevel on timber up to 43mm thick according to the festool website

 

[kostello]

and the mafell will cut a bevel in timber 40.5mm thick... This is the thickness of the timber not the length of the bevel ....as I understand it anyway....

 

[Woodmonkey]

Don't know what it's called, but if you cut a rebate on each end then just need to mitre the thin part on each piece if that makes sense?

 

[Distinterior]

The TS 75 will DEFINATELY cut a 40mm worktop at 45 degrees. I cut and mitered at 45 degrees, a 45mm Solid Surface worktop with matching Slab ends on a kitchen Island. I brought the TS75 specifically for the job.

The TS 55 will very, very nearly cut 40mm on the bevel, less about a mm or so.

Obviously, this was while it was mounted on the guide rail.

Tim.

 

[SteveLuck]

Ok this make sense, feel a bit stupid now! I think I'll have to take the mafell off the rail to get the 40.5mm as definitely didn't cut through 40mm at 45 degree previously. Thanks for your help.

 

[kostello]

You can clamp a guide to the worktop for the edge of the saw to run against so the cut is straight....

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Is it that wise to have a perfect mitre on it? It might be the prettiest, but is it the most practical? If either part of the top moves, you'll have a gap right on the corner: it's also more easily damaged. If it were mine I'd be tempted to have the mitre starting 5mm - 10mm down or run a rebate across the corner and inset a piece of solid wood. (assuming the top's wood).

 

[busy builder]

I must be thick, as what you've written doesn't make sense to me. You are joining two parts together ? why not router the two ends ? if it's for a corner joint then a masons mitre ?

 

[kostello]

I agree a butt joint where the vertical piece is overhung by the horizontal worktop by a few mm would look better in the long term as the timber moves and shifts....

There is a reason why wooden things have shadow lines and reveals

 

[mahomo59]

i done just this with a 900mm wide piece of walnut. TS55 - Handsaw - Block plane and it was cupped! nightmare to line up get right, wont be doing it again...since returned and its moved slightly but shows massively!

 

[mahomo59]

They made this one really easy for me...double socket, bookcase shelves, floating shelves...!!!! Never again