Wood thicknesser next best

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load2go

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Can anyone advise on what would be best to clean up new 8x4 oak sleepers.
Im thinking, put through an electric timber thicknesser would be best for the job. Buying a thicknesser is not an option at the moment.
What would be next best for the job, belt sander or an electric planer or nether?

Thanks in advance.
 
It really depends what you are using it for really.
If you need accuracy, as part of a joinery or carpentry job then the oak should be faced, edged, and planed, in the planer thicknesser.
If you just need to smooth and get ready for some finish, and the oak isn't unseasoned, and wet, then careful work with the hand held planer and then the belt sander should do it.
 
I bought some new oak "sleepers" to make a TV stand with so it looked like old beams. I used a number 3 plane to clean them up a bit, and a random orbital sander to finish them. They are quite green and plane easily. I wouldn't bother with an electric planer, which will probably be designed to trim a door with rather than the task you have in mind. Just spend an hour or two with a hand plane.
 
Thanks for all your comments \:D/
Yes, new Sleepers 8x4 8foot long. Im just looking for the best way to clean them up without having to buy a thicknesser machine.
They always cheaper to buy when rough cut.
 
Im also trying to find 9inch x 1inch rough sawn pine boards for sale in the North East Durham, Newcastle.
If anyone has or nose where I might be able to buy please send me a message.

Im seriously thinking of buying a planer thiknesser as it will work out cheaper to resize timber to what I need.
 
load2go":13ios0oq said:
Thanks for all your comments \:D/
Yes, new Sleepers 8x4 8foot long. Im just looking for the best way to clean them up without having to buy a thicknesser machine.
They always cheaper to buy when rough cut.


If you are contemplating buying a planer thicknesser, and intend to be doing much planing of oak 8x4 sleepers, then you should be looking at the better, and more costly side of the market.
Also extraction of wet chipping/waste can be a bit problematic as blockages are much more commonplace, ruining the finish!
There are several members here who can give you more up to date advice on what's available out there than me as I still have an old Scheppach pt260, still going strong.
Regards Rodders
 
Definitely not an electric hand planer. Probably my least used tool and only any use for DIY such as sizing a door or window frame that's sticking.

For anything thats thicker than the planers max width as a sleeper would be it's next to impossible to to multiple passes and get an even finish.

If your looking for the cheapest best way if you don't want to use a hand plane then I'd say a belt sander.
 
HexusOdy":2vigjuzf said:
If your looking for the cheapest best way if you don't want to use a hand plane then I'd say a belt sander.

+1
 
marcros":12evqd7n said:
HexusOdy":12evqd7n said:
If your looking for the cheapest best way if you don't want to use a hand plane then I'd say a belt sander.

+1

A sander would be good, just as long as the timber is dry and fairly well seasoned,
I find the worst stuff for fast clogging even 40 grit sander belts is wet timber or most softwood's.
regards Rodders
 
I'm a novice, big time, but just bought a cheap planer to prep some rough old 12 foot 150mm sq gateposts to use to build an arbour and its done a blinding job. I've got 3 more to do but the first took me about 10 mins each side. The thought of doing them with a belt sander with all the clogging and dust.........yuk.
 
I recently smoothed some green oak 6 X 6 (35ft run) and 8 X 6 (48ft run) timbers with an old Stanley Bailey pattern jack plane.

Took a few hours and made me feel very virtuous (and somewhat fitter!).

W2S

PS I do own a cheap Bosch electric planer but I only use it if I can't think of any other option, and/or I'm in a real hurry
 
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