Which is at fault

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These http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/ ... Plane.aspx are not only less pricey, if you forget the Atlantic problem, but show just how simple they are.
Of course the snag is getting the right size, I would bet a shiny shilling that the 3/4" would be too big.
The tapering device I made for my windsor chair legs was basically the same except for the use of a plane iron.
Saves having to produce/find a blade, although a spokeshave blade would probably work just as well.
With a sharp 'exit' corner to the blade, a gentle, scratched line is left which might not be a problem, in this use, a radius to the corner would ease that.
xy
 
AndyT":6571f6p4 said:
Or just to cover all options, the commoner English style from Ray Iles http://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk/ - look under Rounding Planes.

Edit: Also have a look at this thread which shows that pattern and an interesting variant, very easily made from any really knackered old wooden jack plane

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/a-new-bristol-design-of-rounder-t82693.html

Do you have an opinion as to which is the better tool: the Isles or the Ashem?

I ask because there is a huge difference in price.
 
I have always wondered why these wooden rounders are not made with a skewed iron. So that the cutting action is like using a flat or skew chisel on the pole lathe, the centre part of the edge does the cutting, but the corners are clear of the workpiece. I would have expected it to produce a better finish as it is effectively cross-grain cuttting ?
 
Andy Kev.":1jt9wvvd said:
AndyT":1jt9wvvd said:
Or just to cover all options, the commoner English style from Ray Iles http://www.oldtoolstore.co.uk/ - look under Rounding Planes.

Edit: Also have a look at this thread which shows that pattern and an interesting variant, very easily made from any really knackered old wooden jack plane

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/a-new-bristol-design-of-rounder-t82693.html

Do you have an opinion as to which is the better tool: the Isles or the Ashem?

I ask because there is a huge difference in price.

Not really. I don't own any of either. I did use some Ashem rounders on a green woodworking course and they were nicely automatic.
But I've been ok with a homemade one in similar trad style to the Iles, or with a bought adjustable one for the little amount of threaded stuff I've made.
 
Sheffield Tony":1am3lcq7 said:
I have always wondered why these wooden rounders are not made with a skewed iron. So that the cutting action is like using a flat or skew chisel on the pole lathe, the centre part of the edge does the cutting, but the corners are clear of the workpiece. I would have expected it to produce a better finish as it is effectively cross-grain cuttting ?

I thought the same when I made one. I used a metal spokeshave blade and put a heavy camber on it, which gave the same effect.

Like many apparently simple tools there are subtleties to get right.
 
If the dowel doesn't fit it's the wrong size for the tool.
It's easy to reduce the diameter - just drop the dowel into a bit of a jig and use a plane.
 
When I used to restore furniture I made my own dowels by hammering oak pegs through (a dowel plate?) a flat piece of steel with incrementally sized holes that I had pillar-drilled through it.
It produced best results if the pegs were split from a larger piece as it reduced the amount that broke.

I'm sure someone could find and paste a link from Sir Roys TV show, he must have done it. :wink:


Good luck regards,
Dave
 
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