Turning tools identification help please

[LocalOak]

Hi

I've been slowly working my way through getting my inherited, old but functioning myford ml8 working. Turning is serious addictive, and another slope to add to the rest but that is another story.

I also inherited some tools, they are Marples and have a fair bit of rust but are essentially intact. I have a bowl gouge, a half inch spindle gouge, a parting tool and a large and small skew which I can identify if not yet use well, but I have a couple of queries about some of the other tools.

My largest gouge is just under 3/4 and has been ground like a spindle gouge but I was wondering whether it is actually a roughing gouge, which I don't have. I also have what look to me like two scrapers but they have been ground with a full bevel of about 30 degrees, like a chisel. I've got some photos below, not great I'm afraid but photography is very low down my list of skills.

My questions are:

1. Should I grind the large spindle gouge as a roughing gouge or keep it as a spindle?
2. Are the rounded and v-shaped chisels really scrapers that have been ground incorrectly?

Here are the pics:

top to bottom, gouge, curved chisel/scraper, v chisel/scraper from above

top to bottom, gouge, curved chisel/scraper, v chisel/scraper from the side showing profile

top to bottom, gouge, curved chisel/scraper, v chisel/scraper from the side showing underside

There are more pictures here if you want to see http://s820.photobucket.com/albums/zz12 ... g%20tools/


I also have a mystery bit of kit that I think is something to do with centering and hold narrow pieces but I'm not sure. The smaller cone fits inside the larger device, and the shank is parallel not morse taper to fit in the head or tailstock. Pics are

Any suggestions on these gratefully received.

Thanks

Toby

 

[CHJ]

The three tools, carbon steel by the looks of it I should say, are a Spindle Gouge, not roughing and a couple of scrapers.
They all look as though they need the bevels shortening considerably to add strength and heat absorbtion to the cutting edge.

Somewhere in the order of 45 deg for the spindle gouge and 80 deg, for the scrapers

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Toby,

Looks like you deffinatly have a spindle gouge and 2 scrapers.

No reason why you can't use the large SG as a rougher. RG are usually deeper "U" shapes but if the tool is as big as you say it should work fine. Experiment with the bevel angles. My RG is about 35 deg, using Chas' line system.

The other bits could be cup chucks, or parts of a cup chuck. The idea being that you roughly cut the blank round-ish then tap it into the tapering hole in the cup chuck (possibly with some chalk on for extra grip) should hold well with light-ish cuts!!

HTH

Richard

 

[LocalOak]

Thanks very much, a bit of a session with the grinder then...

And as they are carbon steel (I thought that too) then I see an HSS slope in the very near future.


I have already tried out the large gouge as roughing, and it seemed to work fine.

Thanks again

Toby

 

[CHJ]

Toby, nothing wrong with the carbon steel, I would not be in too much of a rush to replace those forms with HSS, they have a lot of years use left in them. Just take care grinding them not to overheat the edge when reshaping, if they are getting warm to the touch then back off until cooled. Should not be a problem with normal touch-up sharpening as long as you let the wheel do the work and don't apply too much pressure. As long as the steel temper is good they should hold a sharp edge.

They won't cost anything to keep and may well become 'the tool' to pick up for specific tasks as you develope a feel for what suits you.

Just be careful using the gouge for roughing to only use it for spindle work, (grain in line with the lathe bed) never attempt to use it on the outside of a bowl blank as the tang is not strong enough to meet the loads that the endgrain inflicts.

 

[Bodrighy]

I have a couple of old Ashley Isles carbon steel spindle gouges that I use for making crochet hooks. as they get a really sharp edge and it keeps long enough for a couple of hooks. Personally I reckon you get a better edge than with HSS but that is possibly down to my sharpening skills.

Pete

 

[Richard Findley]

Pete is right. Carbon Steel should achieve a sharper edge, which is great when you want a fine finishing cut, only trouble is that it tends not to last so long as on HSS.

With carefull sharpening these tools should see you with some good experience with your turning!!

Cheers

Richard

 

[LocalOak]

Thanks for the advice on the carbon steel, I reckon I have a lot of learning to do before I am able to tell what a good edge is so I'll stick with them, they were free after all.

I just know my own tendencies to see a slope and start on down it...