Tricoya for box sash

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:ROFLMAO: I love the idea of you being sat there for a week thinking....and then conclude that...

If your referring to tricoya though think of the facts, this is a fully water proof sheet material, that has an exceptional painted finish. We can surely agree that when making a simple box that is to be painted, the first thought is - "what sheet material is best suited to this task?"....

However, I have pretty much come round to the idea to use a combo of when creating the box. Majority will be timber...
Good luck using your miracle product and I don't use sheet materials FWIW.
 
I think I’d just use Tricova through out rather than mix it with Accoya. If you’re in for a penny, might as well go the whole hog. Not sure why you’d rebate the Accoya for the Tricoya, both are allegedly stable, just pin and glue butt joints would be sufficient.

The wag tail is usually is a sloppy slot with a pin through the top, so it’s not fixed and can ‘wag’. The bottom of it is long enough that when the weights are suspended the top of the weight never drops below the bottom of the wag. This allows the weight with a bit of vertical lift potentially of the wag to sneak the first weight under onto the other side.
 
So here is where i'm at. Like I said, Ive made tonnes of good windows in my mere 15 years and a gizzilion sash's but this is my first proper weighted sash frame so quite looking forward to the final result. Got 15 to do and install. My initial concerns are is my cavity big enough (oo err) to be able to get the lead weights into the frame - they can be awkward. And how do I stop them fowling against each other? Usually there is a floating rip of timber that allows the first weight to squeeze by, and once the other weight is installed then they don't hit each other. Need to work out how to do something a bit cleaner - or perhaps not!
View attachment 151429View attachment 151430View attachment 151431
Looks ok.
An important thing about fitting the weights is not only the width inside the box but also the height of the pocket (unless you want to cut the weights into bits ) . By this, I mean both the height from the cill of the bottom cut and the total height of the hole itself, I have had to repair windows where they must have put the weights in from the back or at least before they put the back on the box, not fun !
Just do a full size drawing on a bit of wood to make sure there is clearance.
Don`t make the wagtail too long either.

Remember you are supposed to do masons mitres on the outer cheek at the head.

Ollie
 
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I think I’d just use Tricova through out rather than mix it with Accoya. If you’re in for a penny, might as well go the whole hog. Not sure why you’d rebate the Accoya for the Tricoya, both are allegedly stable, just pin and glue butt joints would be sufficient.
Trenching was mainly for ease and consistency of assembly.
 

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