Temporary cross for a grave

[Paul Chapman]

I've been asked to make a temporary cross for a grave. Need to have it done by next wednesday. I'll be making it from oak. I'm not sure how long it will need to last but I was intending not to apply any finish and just let it 'weather' naturally. Would that be best or should I apply some sort of finish :?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[matt]

Not much experience of this, but I think the ground needs to settle before a permanent stone is placed. I think that's somewhere in the region of six months to maybe a year. I'm sure Oak above the ground will be fine but the bit pushed into the ground could begin to rot. Much depends on the dimensions.

 

[big soft moose]

we regularly put untreated oak signs and waymarker into the ground and although they do rot it is years before they loose their structural strength - assuming the cross is of reasonable dimensions it will be fine for 6 months to a year

 

[Paul Chapman]

I'll probably make it to fit into one of those metal fence-post spikes. The height above ground will be about 80cm. It's only a small grave for ashes.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[wizer]

I don't see any harm in painting the bit that goes in the ground with creosote substitute and a bit of DO on the top to lengthen it's oakiness for a bit longer.

 

[johnf]

I made one recently for my dads ashes I used pitch pine it was a board from a old boat it smelt really strong of tar so I am hoping it will last a while.

 

[Digit]

The traditional method of preserving timber below ground was to char it, and yes, it does seem to work.

Roy.

 

[awkwood]

I would be very suprised if oak (not the sapwood) shows any sign of rot inside 18 months. Its not the wood in the ground that rots, its at ground level and if it gets damaged by a strimmer i makes it worse.
I have seen a lfew made from 3x2 and 3x1/2 so you would need to pack out a standard post spike

 

[OldSchoolTools]

Gents,

i've fitted many back yard gates and buried the styles into the ground with no look at not being called back to the problem in question, then an old boy told me to wrap the bottom that is to be buried in a dpm the type you put on brickwork, so I triedthis and fixing with galvanized plate nails and then wrapped a plastic builders bag around the lot before burying into the ground, I know its not great but does the trick.

 

[mailee]

I made a cross for a grave over a year ago out of Oak and I painted the lower section with a bitumen based paint. Above ground I used oil and so far it has withstood all the elements. It was intended as a temporary measure but they have decided to make it a permanant fixing as they were so pleased with it. HTH.

 

[Jaybee24]

Hi Paul

You probably know this already but if you don't want to treat oak for outside then it will be ok for years. It will quickly turn a silver/grey. if you want the wood to keep its original brown colour, then you would have to treat it with something simple like a danish oil. Just a simple rub every two years would probably do but it depends on how exposed the location is.


If it was me doing the job I would mount by simply digging a shallow hole and throw in some ready mix cement. Pack it tight with the oak shaft supported. Either water the cement or wait for it to rain.....Viola

Best regards

John.

 

[Smudger]

I think that, if this is in a cemetery, they might have strong opinions about digging holes and filling them with concrete.

I have seen wooden marker crosses, which I am assuming were oak, in place after 30+ years in both civil and military burial grounds. Not in prime condition, but still standing.


These are some markers in our local graveyard:

This seems to have been in place since 1926.

This one since 1920

The last one I'm not sure of - I think c1930

So I don't think you've got a problem with 18 months.

 

[Benchwayze]

I did this once.

About 15 years ago, I made a cross from Western Red Cedar, for a friend.
He put the cross in a bucket of concrete, allowed it to set, then erected the cross. The cross lasted four years and had merely gone grey. No Rot.

FWIW
HTH
John

 

[woodbloke]

Hi Paul - if you fancy a run down to Wilton at the weekend, I'd be happy to machine the oak for you - Rob

 

[Jaybee24]

@ Smudger

I thought they were quite used to seeing holes dug in cemeteries :?

As for concrete - well it is just a little more modern than stone - innit

I bet you 100 cub ft of Bocote you would not get a single complaint from any of the residents. :roll:

John

 

[Smudger]

Not a joke, really.
Cemeteries do get cross about that sort of thing, and bereaved relatives' feelings should be respected. A wooden cross can simply be driven into the ground, no need for anything else.

 

[Benchwayze]

I just made the cross Smudger. My friend decided on the concrete in a bucket, to keep the thing stable; which it did.

You need to dig a hole anyhow to put a cross in the ground so why not support it with a concrete 'boot'?

John :wink:

 

[Paul Chapman]

Thanks for all your advice and tips - much appreciated.

Hi Paul - if you fancy a run down to Wilton at the weekend, I'd be happy to machine the oak for you

Many thanks for the offer, Rob. I have some oak of roughly the right sizes. It won't need much planing so I should be able to manage OK, but thanks for offering.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[johnf]

This is my one

 

[toolsntat]

Did a temporary (about 4 years :roll: ) marker for my late Wife in Beech and initially treated it with Cuprinol clear preservative followed by translucent Sadolins...

After a while it faded then went dark and black in places. Would occasionally scrub it with bleach and when dry cut it back with wire wool giving a really nice weathered appearance 8)

I did decorative Fleur-di-lis to the ends and would say that fine details in the curves could actually drop off when the elements take hold, as it happens I was lucky but the timber did open up a lot in places.....

A tip for anyone setting markers into the ground is if its not fixed in some way any Knob (and they are out there) can uproot it :evil: :twisted:

To over come this I left 12" below ground and fixed 2' of aluminium (with bent key on lower end) to the bottom 6". I then bored a 4" dia hole and cemented it in place leaving the last 12" free to be in-filled with decorative gravel. This allowed me to get access to the fixings when finally taking it down leaving nothing in the way for the headstone slab :wink:

Andy