Table or Band saw

[chelsea_uk]

Hi,

Slowly getting a small workshop kitted out - picked up a tyme avon just the other day for a rather lovely price So I thought I'd keep an eye out on the local classifieds for a saw.

I'm predominantly looking to make bowls initially (and have got some blanks) - but later it would be rather nice to have a saw to cut wood for both woodturning use and also the occasional DIY use.

What is more useful for wood turning and why ?

chelsea.

 

[chipmunk]

No question, the biggest capacity bandsaw you can find 8)

Try to buy a descent make and get your blades from Tuffsaws http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/.

HTH
Jon

P.S. Just saw you asked why - sorry.
For the woodturner, converting your own green timber is the most satisfying way to go. You can use logs, old firewood begged stolen or borrowed rather than relying on buying your blanks. That way you can convert figured, spalted and other timber most woodworkers wouldn't want to touch into useful often profitable items. Bandsaws are great for this as you can rip logs up to the capacity of your bandsaw and crosscut logs into bowl blanks too. There's no real way to do this safely on a tablesaw IMHO.

Bandsaws are very safe to use provided you follow a few very simple rules and although the surface finish may not match that of a good well set up tablesaw, most of the time you'll be turning off those rough faces anyway.

HTH
Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Band saw by miles.

Will cut circular bowl blanks - reduce logs to bowl blanks or spindle 'squares'.
Can be used to saw boards / veneers from thicker stock
Has a greater depth of cut than a table saw

I'd love a table saw but I wouldn't swap my band saw for one

Regards Mick

 

[bellringer]

bandsaw much safe then table saw

 

[bogmonster]

Bandsaw. A table saw is not good for cutting circles or even polygons. It's capacity is very limited unless it's a monster.

Now if the choice was between a bandsaw and a chainsaw that is not so easy. I made do with a chainsaw only for ages. You can harvest wood, cut big stock, cut polygons etc.

If I had to choose between a bandsaw and a chainsaw I think I would go with the chainsaw. Even with my little chainsaw I can size stock up to 36" in diameter. You would need a very big bandsaw for that. Also you can take a chainsaw to the wood - useful if your starting point is a tree still in the ground.

If you are not harvesting your own wood or only dealing with smaller stock then a bandsaw may be a better bet for you.

All these tools are dangerous, especially the chainsaw so get the right safety gear and ideally get some training.

BM

 

[chelsea_uk]

thanks all - looks like I'll be getting a band saw

 

[Brianp]

I was having a similar thought at the back of my mind (there's possibly a new lathe in my future so this one is further back) about a bandsaw - but I work in a small wooden shed which also has to store bicycles and lawnmower stuff too. How do those bench bandsaws fare? I am also tempted by a mitre saw but I don't think that would have the usefulness of a bandsaw.

I hear what one poster said about the versatility of chainsaws, but those things scare me 10 ways.

 

[philcycle]

Brianp.
I've had an Inca bench bandsaw for many years. I've made bandsawn boxes (where you cut the blank and then glue it back together without the bits you don't need), ripped lengths of timber to size, resawn 'logs', cut bowl blanks etc. My son has been using it to shape 50mm thick beech laminate for piano wrest planks (c 1.5m long), and various ripping of solid beech to make other piano parts (including legs). We are talking hard work - and the machine is still in very good working order.
The only 'failure' is the table 'plug' which is plastic and didn't like the heat generated when cutting metal. I shall make or buy another one.
Buy the best one you can afford, and stick to a two wheel machine ('cos the blades last better).
Read New Complete Guide to the Bandsaw, The: Everything You Need to Know About the Most Important Saw in the Shop by Mark Duginske (1 Sep 2007) and Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Bandsaws (Complete Illustrated Guides) by Roland Johnson (7 Jan 2011) for a good rundown on buying, setting up and using (try your local library before buying either).

 

[bogmonster]

Brian, you are right to be cautious of chainsaws but with care they can be used safely. I borrowed a saw with a massive bar not so long ago. It was about 2.5 feet long and only just went through when tackling the free from both sides. That was a bit scary but actually the saw was very civilised. A small electric saw with a good brake can be very easy to handle. If you are going to use logs for bowls you will need to split the logs. My bandsaw has a depth of cut a little under 12 inches - for this you need a floor standing model. That allows me to split logs for bowls up to about 11 inches in diameter. A big bench top bandsaw with a 6 inch depth of cut and you are looking at 5.5 inch diameter bowls only. If you only need to cut rounds then a smaller saw is much less of an issue. A 6 inch deep bowl is a fair sized bowl.

Bottom line, go with what you feel safe and comfortable with. Not worth risking life and limb over wood turning.

BM

 

[chipmunk]

Don't forget that you can also use a cheap axe and beatle (big mallet or log with turned handle) to split logs down through the pith. A froe would be nice but 5 times the price of a cheap axe that'll do the job.

This can easily bring a big diameter log within the capabilities of a smaller bandsaw - say 12" diameter log will now fit under a bandsaw with about 6" depth of cut to rough out a blank. My saw also has a 12" depth of cut but it's easier to cross-cut a 12" log in two halves than all at once :wink:

Jon

 

[bogmonster]

Hi chipmunk, good point. I have had limited success splitting with axe but have planned to try a froe. Being a mean git I plan on using an old leaf spring. Use end with eye for handle. Cut to length and grind a cutting edge. Instructions on inter web somewhere.

BM.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I have TS, Bandsaw and chainsaw.....I harvest all my own turning blanks and the TS is totally redundant for that purpose. Both the chainsaw and the bandsaw I couldn't live without. I will be upgrading my bandsaw shortly too because for splitting logs you really need 12" between blade guide assembly and table (that's typically a 16" capacity saw). They are invaluable and in my view are the most versatile machine saw by a very long way.

+1 for tuffsaws blades.

 

[winemaker]

Has anyone tried a scorpion saw :?: :?:

 

[chipmunk]

Not that specific model from B&D but have tried a couple of reciprocating saws with greenwood pruning blades and they are slow with loads of vibration. I think a bowsaw is far quicker by and large.

TBH I think that these saws are for DIY powertool nuts who are unable to use a handsaw and unable or unwilling to use a chainsaw.

The only time I think it makes any sense is when working close to soil level where it'd tater a chain on a chainsaw and the bowsaw back gets in the way.

HTH
Jon

 

[russ1980]

Chainsaw for me too. Although I would like a bandsaw just haven't got the room

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

I've had a table saw for years. In terms of woodturning it is useless really. I use my Lidl electric chainsaw for cutting blanks. The only time the table saw comes into use thereafter is for pen blanks. I would prefer to have a band-saw for that, but my limited budget simply will not allow.
My table saw has a capacity of 75mm but I really only use it for general woodworking. I wouldn't put green timber anywhere near a rotating blade personally either.
I have a reciprocating saw, which when I was working at my trade we called demolition saws. Again, I wouldn't put it near large pieces of green timber for fear of binding. I've used it for cutting small branches when pruning a tree, but TBH a sharp bow saw is quicker and safer.
When splitting logs along their length, I use a felling axe and a 4lb mash hammer if necessary. I find it quicker than the chainsaw, although far less accurate. :lol:
One of my friends has a hydraulic log splitter for his wood burning stove fuel. I've used that in the past too, but I don't think it is worth the money for the amount of timber I process.

 

[woodfarmer]

I
My table saw has a capacity of 75mm but I really only use it for general woodworking. I wouldn't put green timber anywhere near a rotating blade personally either.
.

Why? me and a neighbour cut fire wood logs to length on a circular saw, do about 200 Cu metres a year. For small stuff up to 6-7 inches I use a Ryobi table saw, for the bigger stuff we use a very old circular saw mounted on the back of a small tractor which is ideal for site use. Chainsaws are mostly used for felling and trimming in situ.

Please please don't buy one of the Botche easy adjustable electric chainsaws. they are the most dangerous tool I have ever come across having some real basic design flaws.

 

[joethedrummer]

Chainsaw for me too. Although I would like a bandsaw just haven't got the room

Hello ,
I know the original choice was table saw or bandsaw, but following on from Russ, I have table saw and chain saw and not enough space.
I couldn"t cut a decent blank with the chainsaw so got a makita reciprocating saw and modified some blades which have produced some reasonable blanks.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

I wouldn't put green timber anywhere near a rotating blade personally either.

Why?

A joiner on a site I worked on was cutting some timber cleared from rough ground to build a fence for his garden. Leylandii I think. The blade got gummed up and jammed. It was one of those site saws driven by a small diesel. Anyhoo, when the bloke tried to free the wood, the blade flexed and kicked back, then spat the timber upwards into his jaw. Not a bonnie sight, and a very lucky boy.
As I said, I wouldn't do it personally - it's all about choices.

 

[renderer01]

Hi All, Another usefull item to go with the chainsaw and the bandsaw is the electric powered hydraulic log splitter, I find this very usefull and easy to use more for green wood than seasoned wood, the reason is the seasoned dry wood can go with a hell of a bang and its a real ankle and knuckle biter scenario.

Rend.