Supersizing a female figurine

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Got the torso turned and finished today, also from green oak so hopefully it won't distort too much, will be applying oil repeatedly to minimise the shrinkage/cracking, I plan to use a dowel to attach the two pieces but it will only be glued into the bottom so that the pieces can easily be separated if need be.
Now I know the proportions are a little "stretched" and it's not quite what I had in mind but I do like it.
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The torso is maybe a little too long, I'm in two minds whether I want to reduce it by an inch but then it might look too short and I won't be able to fix it, will leave that desicion for after I've finished the hat, here's where I need your opinions, I'm thinking the hat rim needs to be wider than the shoulders but how much? I'm thinking of doing the hat from green wood so that I can make the rim super thin and let it go wavy as it dries, still not sure what wood to use or how deep/solid to make the purple colouration, either a solid colour painted on or a thinner coat that will hilight the grain, alternatively I may even do both and have them changeable.
Next is the shape of the hat, I'm thinking the main body as a half sphere with the rim either being straight out or curved down, straight would show off the distortion more and be easier to make very very thin.
Your thoughts and critique?
 
@Stigmorgan .
That's beautiful.
I've searched ladies day hats and there are some stunning designs there.
I would suggest that's an idea to consider.
With regards to the the method/type of paint/stain.
I would experiment until you have found a result that you are really pleased with.
You will know when you have hit the mark.
Cheers
Fred
 
hi stig, no idea if this would work / help, but if you left the piece in a bath of oil, i wonder if it would stop the cracking going further? Itd stop it drying out so quick?
 
hi stig, no idea if this would work / help, but if you left the piece in a bath of oil, i wonder if it would stop the cracking going further? Itd stop it drying out so quick?
Quite possibly but that would require at least a few gallons of oil, lower half seems to have stopped cracking and moving, only 5 cracks in the rim of the base, they've stopped at the foot underneath and I quite like them, I'm still applying a coat of oil every day, the torso has today started a crack in the rim of the shoulder section, I expected I would get one or two and as long as they stay small I can live with them and consider them a part of the art, Pauline was a keen artist herself and would appreciate the natural occurance within the piece.

Today I started on a hat, got a piece of Sycamore rounded out and shaped, was looking amazing until I got a catch.
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About 2 hours work wasted, not a happy bunny.
 
Eeek.... hey ho, its all good practice 🤪
In terms of the cracks in the base, if it continued you could maybe cut them to create kind of pleated bits like you'd get when a dress moves / spins.... and if you wanted to get really inventive, you could use your dremmel to carve reliefs / pleats in one direction to give a feeling of movement.... i fully accept it'd be very hard to pull off
 

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Very nice elegant lines there, if you add a hat , perhaps something in the style of a Fascinator ( you could add it to your piece which tore ), easy to make from lace, or net, or both and a little tissue ( bow or whatever ) you can add glitter to it with a dab of varnish or glue.
 
Yesterday I had another hat explode so today I wasnt very hopeful but decided I wasnt going to beaten and I ended up making 2 hats 😁 I like one a lot more than the other but I'd like to hear your opinions, the upside down bowl style has a wall thickness of 1.5mm and the cartwheel style has 2.5mm thickness, I want brave enough to try going any thinner. Next will be to colour them purple, I'll keep oiling the body daily for a few more weeks to slow the drying, being cold out there is helping slow this too I think, hopefully it won't move too much more after that, then I'll attach the 2 halves of body with a dowel so that they can be separated and adjusted if they move too much, not too sure how I'm going to attached the hat yet, I might look at small magnets so that the hats can be changed over.
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I sense a trend, I also prefer the flat one, the lampshade covers the head too much and would almost blind the wearer so not practical, will be interesting to see if the wood distorts at all once I paint it. It's amazing how much difference the hat makes, it doesn't look much like a figurine without it.
 
I actually prefer the second option :dunno: though I don't consider it 'perfect' -- have you thought about using two or three sheets of veneer (glued together) which might allow you to incorporate a 'wavy' profile - potentially a more natural look of a floppy brim? I'm sure it is well within your ability to simply turn a 'crown' to which you could glue the 'brim'.

EDIT : Meant to say that the 'magnet' idea is very good.
 
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Yesterday I had another hat explode so today I wasnt very hopeful but decided I wasnt going to beaten and I ended up making 2 hats 😁 I like one a lot more than the other but I'd like to hear your opinions, the upside down bowl style has a wall thickness of 1.5mm and the cartwheel style has 2.5mm thickness, I want brave enough to try going any thinner. Next will be to colour them purple, I'll keep oiling the body daily for a few more weeks to slow the drying, being cold out there is helping slow this too I think, hopefully it won't move too much more after that, then I'll attach the 2 halves of body with a dowel so that they can be separated and adjusted if they move too much, not too sure how I'm going to attached the hat yet, I might look at small magnets so that the hats can be changed over.
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I think both hats are very chic but on first impressions I would opt for your cartwheel design
 
Stig, I think that the 1st one looks more chic and fitting for the body, but well done and must have been a challenge turning it end grain alright! I've yet to try it but is on the list of things to make a bowl from.
 
Stig, I think that the 1st one looks more chic and fitting for the body, but well done and must have been a challenge turning it end grain alright! I've yet to try it but is on the list of things to make a bowl from.
I was so paranoid it would explode I was sharpening with the diamond card every pass, prob way more than I needed to but the wood is so dry I was constantly expecting it to catch and explode, think I turned it to 4mm then sanded it the rest with 40g and even that was nerve wracking 😁 now I have to raid the school art cupboard for some purple paint.
 
If the paint is black ? Yes. Used sparingly it will sparkle just enough to be an "accent"
If the paint is purple ? No.. or you wont be able to avoid it looking like something that fell off a dodgem.

If the paint is going to be a matt finish you'll want a couple of coats of compatible matt varnish over the top of any added glitter, or the glitter on the surface may come off over time due to handling. If you add the hat afterwards ( to make it easier to sand ) you can sand very lightly with scotch pads between your matt varnish coats just to get the surface even so the glitter sits below the final " touching coat". IYSWIM.

That is how one "glitters" custom cars , bikes, boats, planes etc..you "drown" the glitter in "clear", sanding betwen coats until the glitter is still there , but you cant feel it, then you add more coats of clear and if you want it to be deep gloss you polish the final coat.
 
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