Setup hand plane for a novice

[RedMist]

I'm very new to woodworking and bought a Stanley No 4 Smooth Plane 2 Inch to flatten some hardwood cherry boards I have.

I was surprised and let down that the plane is unusable as new. Looks like I need to work on the blade with a couple of grits, some leather & green compound and a Honing Guide to set the angle correctly. All this will sting me for £50+

Simply put, what's the cheapest method I could use to get my plane working correctly so i can see if it can even do the job I originally bought it for?

Thanks

 

[Trafalgar]

Quick and dirty tuning (there are tons of videos on YouTube as well):

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/tuni ... tofus.aspx

Paul Sellers processing rough stock with a No. 4:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m231_HKCOWs

I would urge you not to test for wind on the convex side of a board until you've removed the convexity. Unless the winding sticks balance perfectly on the 'hump' at each end (and the convexity is exactly the same at each end - in location and height), you are as likely to get an incorrect reading as a correct reading.

 

[D_W]

If you have an auto supply or motorcycle supply shop near you, all you need to test sharpness is a few grits of wet and dry paper, perhaps ending with 1000 or 2000 and a decent chrome polish like autosol.

If you have woodworking sandpaper already, that can do the coarse work.

Sharpen the bevel side of the iron, a little on the back and set the cap iron away from the edge a fair bit and try it out.

 

[Ttrees]

The cheapest diamond plates are DMD whetstones
I don't know if these are the cheapest ones but you get the point.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400-1000-Diamon ... 7SnBybchzA

And the Ultex
https://www.its.co.uk/Hand-Tools/Sharpening-Tools.htm

I think these are the thickness of a credit card, but not sure.
If they are, it might be a good idea to get some kind of surface plate.
I got some free broken granite stove base tiles from a tile place

You might very well need to fettle the chipbreaker if it catches shavings between the blade and it,
that's why the suggestion of the diamond plates that will be flat if supported correctly.
They will be good for lapping the back of your iron also.
I suggest a cheap honing guide aswell
Good luck
Tom

 

[ED65]

I was surprised and let down that the plane is unusable as new.

Not that I want to defend current Stanley production but this is actually the norm in case you haven't subsequently found out. Same way almost all chisels need sharpening before use virtually all planes need some work before they can be put to work.

If you're lucky all you're looking at is a quick honing, some work on the cap iron and p'rhaps a few touches here and there on the corners and arises of the body casting. In my experience the cap iron will take you longer to fettle than the cutting iron will take to get sharp; it's often said to take "just a few minutes" but expect it to take you a bit longer since you've not done one before.

All this will sting me for £50+

You've obviously forgotten this thread of yours: Sharpening stones?