rip saw

[MarkB]

I'm doing some initial cutting of some sycamore logs by hand before I can get them down to size so I can work on them on my table saw.

Progress is slow with the "Irwin Jack Universal" saw I'm using:

As I've got a few to process, I was wondering if I'm going to be better off using a 26" 4.5 TPI rip saw like this:

http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... ml#SID=528

 

[Bod]

After this job, how much use would you get from the £70-80 saw?
Might be better to look for a pre-used one, at 1/4 to 1/3 of the cost.
5 on E-bay now, most tool dealer will have some.
They don't tend to get much use these days, I have one that cuts once a year at most.(Just to knock the dust off!)

Bod

 

[JohnPW]

I've got a cheapo hardpoint Lidl hand saw, excellent for cross cutting but very slow and hardly cuts for ripping. I have actually got an old rip saw but haven't got round to using it, probably needs sharpening as well.

The cutting action and the shape of the saw teeth for cross cutting and ripping are different so I would think a rip saw will be better for ripping.

 

[undergroundhunter]

It would defiantly be quicker with a lower TPI saw but if the wood is green then it will need plenty of set. As Bod has said if its only going to get use once or twice a year then I couldn't justify £80+ for a new saw. Saying that all but one of my saws are old and all I have needed to do is sharpen them.

Matt

 

[RogerP]

Real cheapo rip-cut saw http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Black-Handle-Carpentry-Cutting/dp/B008MNJ3A0

Buy a couple for £12.04 the pair and free delivery. They'll do the job between them.

 

[worn thumbs]

You have my sympathy,I did something similar with a piece of cherry I was given.The plan was to cut a bowl blank for turning and after all the work I found too much rot in the heart of the timber.It made reasonable firewood and I got some (a lot actually) exercise.

 

[Racers]

You could have split it with a couple of wedges, oak makes good ones.

Pete

 

[bridger]

You could have split it with a couple of wedges, oak makes good ones.

Pete

My thoughts exactly. I'm not sure how sycamore splits, but if it is even tolerably flat I'd rather use a scrub plane than rip with a saw like that.

 

[heimlaga]

A proper 26" rip handsaw is a whole wold apart from what you use. A longer blade allows for longer strokes which are more efficient and less tiring. Proper rip teeth cut math more efficiently than the teeth of an universal tooth saw. A wider blade does not buckle quite as easily so more force can be used. In all it wii be at least 3 times probably 4-5 times as efficient as the saw you have.

I though that nobody needs a rip saw in the modern world but then I found a 26" Henry Disston&sons number 12 for 5 euros at a local flea market. Once I have it I would never want to be without it. I do not use it very often but it saves me from hours of frustration every time I use it.
There is a totally insane internet hype around the Disston number 12 but any old good quality handsaw with a 26 or 28 inch blade should do the job just as efficiently if it is in good condition.

Personally I would have a hard time justify the cost of a new rip saw from Flinn as there are plenty of good old hand saws to be found at flea markets and dumpsters and scrap yards. They usually require some serious work to their teeth though so you need to learn sharpening it. Sharpening a rip saw is pretty easy if you have a steady hand and good eyesight.

 

[d c]

would hiring a chain saw for a day be viable?

 

[Racers]

You could have split it with a couple of wedges, oak makes good ones.

Pete

My thoughts exactly. I'm not sure how sycamore splits, but if it is even tolerably flat I'd rather use a scrub plane than rip with a saw like that.

Or an axe to take the high spots off, surprisingly accurate once you get used to it.

Pete

 

[bridger]

You could have split it with a couple of wedges, oak makes good ones.

Pete

My thoughts exactly. I'm not sure how sycamore splits, but if it is even tolerably flat I'd rather use a scrub plane than rip with a saw like that.

Or an axe to take the high spots off, surprisingly accurate once you get used to it.

Pete

Assuming the log doesn't have a major twist. Then you could end up with so much waste as to make the yield too low.

 

[coyot]

As heimlaga says... There's plenty of old beauties for a few quid on every car boot sale or even from tool dealers, all you need is 3-5 TPI 26-28'' handsaw with good handle, clean it and sharpen it ;-)

 

[Graham Orm]

Recip saw. Buy or hire. Very versatile, not just for demolition.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Great tools ... but I don't think I'd like to rip logs with one.

 

[Jacob]

As heimlaga says... There's plenty of old beauties for a few quid on every car boot sale or even from tool dealers, all you need is 3-5 TPI 26-28'' handsaw with good handle, clean it and sharpen it ;-)

Yep.
I've got a couple - one ancient Ibbertson with 4 tpi and a S&J Spearior with 6 tpi. Total cost £5 or so. They often haven't had a lot of use.
They are much more effective than a cross cut. You need to be cutting downwards with the work on saw horses at knee level. You can even sit astride it and do a two handed vertical stroke.

 

[Graham Orm]

Great tools ... but I don't think I'd like to rip logs with one.

If the log was fixed down I'd be happy Phil. They're extremely sharp and quick if you focus and prepare carefully. I've used one for all sorts of stuff. I cut a blade in half, lie the saw down and cut across floorboards much quicker than a circular and never touched a cable or a pipe yet. (Just cursed myself).

If it is to be a hand saw, looking at the picture I'd say a couple of spreading wedges wouldn't hurt and some candle wax on the blade.

 

[JimF.]

You can even sit astride it and do a two handed vertical stroke.

Just remember to stop before you go too far.

 

[sdjp]

would hiring a chain saw for a day be viable?

The vast majority of chainsaws have cross cut teeth - not very efficient for rip cutting. Granted, the extra power mitigates that somewhat, but unless you can find one to hire with a rip cut chain, it's not obvious that it's the best option. And most hire places will be

Or an axe to take the high spots off, surprisingly accurate once you get used to it.

I have a rather thin, relatively light axe. One of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm//141545775411 (I also have it's smaller brother - got them primarily for carving). Indeed, flattening boards is well within the capabilities. Much easier if the boards are riven (or quarter sawn I suppose - amounts to the same, for this purpose). I've tried converting a cheap hatchet into a side axe, but never quite for it to work well as yet - I think the geometry is slightly off still.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can even sit astride it and do a two handed vertical stroke.

Just remember to stop before you go too far.

I always tell swmbo to carry on regardless... :lol: