Record CL2 advice please

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teddyboy

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I have recently purchased an old record cl2 and have turned a few bowls but having a problem with spindle running true it seems as soon as I take a truing cut it immediately runs out slightly. Is this something to do with the phosphor bush or is the spindle bent. I am not to technically minded so go easy on me. Cheers
 
Sounds like the phosphor bronze bush in the headstock needs adjusting. I`m on a tight run at the moment but I can post an exploded view later and instructions how to do the job.
F
 
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I have a CL - 3, which I think uses the same bearing. The manual I have is for a later model, but these things haven't changed since the Boer War.

I'll send you the (CL 3) manual if you want (you'll need to build up your posts to PM your e mail address - check the forum rules) but the section on adjustment is all on one page with a couple of photos of the lock rings. The text, minus photos, is here:



The unique Tapered Bronze Bearing System, incorporated in these lathes, is a long established and proven design. Recognised by professional wood turners throughout the world for its qualities of smooth running, optimum accuracy, high load bearing capacity, long life and precision adjustment. It is used by thousands of wood turners and this unique bearing should work tirelessly for many years provided that it is used and maintained properly.

Oiling The Bearing
1. Before first use, and before the lathe is used on all subsequent occasions a tiny amount (5-6 drops) of oil should be added to the bearing Fig 8.1. This procedure should also be carried out every two hours during prolonged use.
IMPORTANT: The bearing does not need a lot of oil but must not be allowed to dry out.

Running The Lathe In
2. To assure longer bearing life, before first use the lathe must be “Run-In” for three hours on the middle step of the pulley.
WARNING: Unattended machines can be dangerous. Be sure people and pets will not be exposed to the running lathe during this period.

3. After “Running-In”, only small amounts of oil should be added.

4. During normal running conditions there should be a thin film of oil visible on the end of the tapered part of the spindle which is evidence of correct distribution of the oil in the bearing. The best way to check this is to view the bearing ‘square on’ Fig 8.2 on a correctly lubricated bearing a thin black line should be visible in between the bearing and the spindle.

5. If the amount of oil seeping out on to the front of the spindle is excessive, centrifugal force may throw the oil outwards. In order to rectify this, further “Running-In” may be required or simply applying less oil less frequently.
If the correct amount of oil is being added and oil is still seeping out, the bearing may be too loose, see section 10 for bronze bearing adjustment procedure. If a thin line around the bearing is not visible and the correct amount of oil is being added, the bearing may be too tight, please see section 10 for details on how to adjust the bearing.

6. It is also normal for a certain amount of heat to be generated in the vicinity of the bearing, especially on high speeds. This is not detrimental, but extremely hot conditions should be investigated (lack of oil or bearing adjustment).

7. Once the pattern of bearing adjustment and lubrication is established for your particular needs, you will find the bearing is one of the smoothest running available - the prime requirement for good woodturning.

---------

MAIN BEARING ADJUSTMENT

During operation the main bearing needs adjusting any time there is endplay (the spindle can be moved left-to-right within its bearings) or if there appears to be looseness between the spindle and bearings.

Bearing test guidelines
A simple test to see if the bearing is correctly adjusted is to hold the spindle between finger and thumb and turn it:
• On a correctly adjusted bearing resistance will be felt but the spindle should still rotate.
• If the spindle rotates freely, it is too loose
• If the spindle cannot be rotated, it is too tight.
Please note: This is a friction bearing and will become warm during usage, this is normal and is another indication that the bearing is correctly adjusted.

To adjust the bearing
1. Ensure the lathe is up to operating temperature, if it hasn’t been run this will take about 5 minutes then disconnect the lathe from power source.

2. Place one end of the brass rod in slot of outer locking ring. Tap the other end of rod with a hammer (not supplied) to rotate it anti-clockwise and loosen the ring. Fig. 10.6

3. Turn inner locking ring clockwise to tighten the bearings against the spindle. Again the brass rod may be utilised to do this Fig. 10.7. Stop tightening when the spindle cannot be rotated by hand.

4. Back off inner locking ring in small steps until the spindle can be just be turned between the forefinger and thumb.

5. Tighten outer locking ring to secure the new setting and re-check adjustment by following the guidelines above. It may be necessary to repeat this procedure more than once to obtain proper adjustment.

If you have any problems adjusting your bearing please call our customer services department on 0870 7701777 who will be happy to advise you through the procedure.
BEARING LUBRICATION
Do not the allow the bearing to dry out between lubrications. Over-lubrication may result in oil being thrown out and on to the workpiece or lathe. Lubricate before each use. For optimum performance we recommend the use of Record Power spindle oil – RPSO-100 or RPSO-250. If not available use automotive grade 30W oil. For further information on this procedure see section 8






It's a bit of a fiddle, but you adjust it using the lock rings. Don't run it too tight so that it gets too hot.
Spare bearing kits are available from Record, but they ain't cheap!

Hope this helps.


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Sorry, Frank. Let's hope it helps Teddybot to get the lathe working.

I think you'll agree that the CL2 / CL 3 are a grand bit of kit.

All best to both.


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I may have already posted this but cant find it so just in case thanks for your help this advise is great. I am not too sure how to use this site yet as it took me 20 minutes to find this posting. Cheers Argus the information is first class and a manual would be great not sure what is meant by PM in second para but i will get used to this site given time. Anyway with the risk of repeating myself thanks for your help i will keep you posted on how i get on.

ted
 
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I think that you need minimum 3 posts to send a Private Message to me ( PM) which will allow you to send your contact details to me in order to receive a PDF copy of the manual in return. It is for the CL3 but I think that they are very similar.

You may find a CL 2 manual on the iternet with a bit of searching, or a forum member here may have one more specific to your machine.

all best
 
The manual I have covers all three CL lathes and there is not any significant difference between them, but as Argus says, let`s hope it gets the lathe up and running as,yes, they are good bits of kit.
F.
 
been away for the weekend but I went straight into the workshop and tightened the phospher bronze bearing added a few drops of oil and I chuffed to say the lathe is now running great. Thanks for your help,
Ted
 
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