Rare Earth Magnets as Door Catches?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

OPJ

Established Member
Joined
31 Jul 2005
Messages
5,566
Reaction score
1
Location
North Somerset
Hi guys,

So, I've got this small curved-fronted cabinet I made a few months ago... (Minus a pair of pulls. :oops:)

4751952729_29c6054728.jpg


4752595294_c8b1ee5596.jpg


You can probably see it in the first photo but, the top-left hand corner of the door sticks out slightly. With the main panel being laminated, it has sprung back slightly :( (although, it was fine when I originally hung it, back in April).

That's not what I'm worried about though, as wood moves, and all that! :)

I think it might be worth trying to add some form of "concealed magnetic catch" to hold the door closed, anyway. I recently tried using rare Earth magnets on another piece but, for some reason, it didn't work as well as I'd hoped. A magnet was set in to the underside of the top above each door, with a corresponding panel pin punched just below the surface of the top door rail (this was for a college exam piece and they were too tight to give it four magnets each... :roll: Clearly, nobody looked on eBay!! :wink:)

What do the rest of you do?

Would two magnets (one in place of the pin or nail) be too strong?

Would I be better off fitting them between the hinges in the closing stile, where they'll hardly be seen?

Thanks for looking,

Olly. :)
 
I'm not sure if this is any help but I was considering a similar problem which has yet to be put into action. So, the following is just a though.

I wanted to get two sections to align perfectly. Two magnets was the answer but the problem was getting the rare earth magnets apart. The solution that came to mind was to separate the magnets. Bury one and adjust the distance between them to adjust the strength pulling them together. The problem is that, the further away the magnets get from each other, the more difficult it is to align them.

Not sure if that makes sense but maybe its some food for thought...
 
I personally would lay it on its back and weight the door down shut for a few days maybe even a week, to see if it pulls back into to shape.

Just out of interest what glue did you use for the laminating??
 
I use rare earth magnets as catches very often, they are a great solution. They are very strong, so with a cabinet the size of yours, one may be enough.

Nice cabinet, a lovely job.
 
Olly - I think your problem with your college piece was that the panel pin doesn't offer enough metal for the magnet to 'grip' as it were. You can simulate what I mean by taking a magnet and banging a panel pin into some wood. Stick the magnet on top of the pin...pulls off quite easy, yes? Now screw down a washer instead of the panel pin and repeat.
 
Olly I have used a magnet in the carcass and a wood screw in the door, I can adjust the depth of the screw to give the correct closing force.


3732233872_acc03a9bbd.jpg
 
Olly, It looks to be a couple of mm deflection.
If so, one remedy is to set the bottom hinge on the door stile further toward the back face of the door, by half the amount of protrusion.
For some reason it is less noticable on the hinge side, due to lines being broken by hinge knuckles , perhaps.

With regard to the magnets, one solution maybe to, fit the door one flush in the stile and the cabinet one in a rectangular block with a square section a little larger than the magnet. This piece should have a slot in it for a screw fixing, as you might do for fixing a table top to allow movement. This would allow adjustment to compensate for the magnet strength. Hope you get my gist.
Regards Rob.
 
When I used to work for a cabinet maker we would put a block on the corner that was proud and then stick a sash cramp on it for a few days. This would sometimes rectify the small distortion
 
OPJ":22dbxewu said:
Would two magnets (one in place of the pin or nail) be too strong?

I often use two 10mm magnets together (use a dowel marker to get them aligned perfectly) with a clear urethane buffer stuck onto one of them to damp the closing and avoid too violent a CLICK!!

I also use the screw on one side method as it's a quick and easy adjustment feature.
 
Olly, the timber has clearly (in my view anyway) moved with the onset of the warmer weather. I don't think that using any sort of magnet(s) will bring the door back flush with the carcass...if you try to do that it will only put undue stress on the hinges. I would look at the hinges again and readjust them by shimming under the leaves...it's going to be tricky whichever way you do it.
Once you've got the door closing properly against the carcass, you can then use a little magnet to keep it in place - Rob
 
Thanks for all the replies. :)

I really like the screw idea as it also gives you some adjustment. My only concern there is using a steel screw in oak (obviously, brass wouldn't attract) - but, in the absence of any moisture, I doubt it would lead to any staining.

Mark - I used Titebond's Cold Press Veneer Glue though, I probably would've been fine with PVA or similar on something as small as this.

Roger - thanks, yes, I do see what you mean and agree that the pin wasn't large enough. Using a washer instead sounds like another fine idea.

Rob (JS) - yes, thanks, I think I understand. I agree that fiddling with the hinges is the best way to go about 'correcting' the door. Otherwise, it could just spring back again, at some point.
 
OPJ":13hcyc12 said:
My only concern there is using a steel screw in oak (obviously, brass wouldn't attract) - but, in the absence of any moisture, I doubt it would lead to any staining.

I've used the method on kitchens that I've built and have never seen any such staining. As you say, it's really just something to worry about in outdoor furniture, don't worry about it on indoor furniture.
 
Try these:

C3494_b3.jpg


Blum Tip on for drawers.
Very strong magnet, push to open and easily adjustable with the screw for depth. So you can keep adjusting it easily if it keep moving. Can still fit a handle but would need to push in an pop open.
 
On the inside of a nice little cabinet like this? 8-[ ...that would worry me, not something I'd choose - Rob
 
I thought that too, and used it on my last cabinet, I put it up in the corner and you never see it. You can just about see it in this one, and obviously not at all when closed.

Not sure how well anything you do could be hidden at this point, if its inside the wood then its going to loose some of its force. Its only for olly so he can put up with it!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top